Engine stand bolts

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Did you remove engine yet?
Usually you use a longer bolt than the bellhousing bolt you removed.
3/8 or 7/16” typically.
Length varies by location on the block.
 
The guy sent me this, he has it on his stand now. I assume he meant 3/8-16?
Roughly what lengths might I need? I'll get an assortment.

Bolt Size and Tightening Information – 170, 198 & 225 Slant Six Engine
Fastener Location Quanity Thread Size, Torque (ft. lbs) Wrench Size
Engine to Trans. Bellhousing (4) 3/6-16, 30 9/16
Engine to Trans. Bell, Bottom (2) 7/16-14, 35 5/8
The length will depend on your engine stand.
 
Plan on having approximately 1/2 inch engagement of bolt into block, make sure the bolts do not bottom out before they draw the head stock up tight, chase the threads and make sure the holes are clean

Good luck
 
Tooljunkie said:
Did you remove engine yet?
Usually you use a longer bolt than the bellhousing bolt you removed.
3/8 or 7/16” typically.
Length varies by location on the block.
Click to expand...
Exactly. I would be very careful. Not too many engine stands now days can handle a straight 6. Not because of the weight but because of the length.
 
toolmanmike said:
Exactly. I would be very careful. Not too many engine stands now days can handle a straight 6. Not because of the weight but because of the length.
Click to expand...
Thanks. And the one I have is a cheap Harbor Freight unit. I may just buy the guy's stand from him if he will sell it.
 
It will work just have to be careful when you flip it they are top heavy.
 
halifaxhops said:
It will work just have to be careful when you flip it they are top heavy.
Click to expand...
OK. I've had a loaded up 5.9 on there before. It was a hassle to turn it but could be done.

I sent the guy and email asking him if he would sell the stand. I'm doubting it but you never know.
 
When i had the 400 on my 3 wheel stand it was sketchy. Rolling it over was a little unnerving.

The slanty is off balance to begin with.and being so long, it hangs past the front wheel. Makes back wheels light and front heavy.
 
There's always unknowns that you don't plan for in a project. This one is starting out with one. LOL
 
Here's a couple shots with mine on HF stand. I don't recall what bolts I used..Had to get creative to line up mounting holes and keep block close to center to rotate. I added a stabilizer outrigger that I could put wood blocks under.
upload_2018-12-25_9-15-7.png

e3432c64-591c-4bb6-aa29-28faa7786c90-jpeg.jpg
 
DodgeLad said:
I looked at my stand which is disassembled right now. It's this one, but mine is orange...lol
1000 lbs. Capacity Engine Stand
Click to expand...

As info, I tried all the engine stands from HF for my slant, the one above is the only one that would bolt up. The next size up (that's good for up to 2000 lbs) nor the smaller one (with just three wheels) won't match up between the arms, length, and mounting holes on the block. For bolts, I had two thread into the block, the other two I had to nut up through a hole.

Because the holes in the arms of the stand are so much bigger than the bolts going through them, I sleeved the arm holes with bushings I found at Ace Hardware - It lets the engine remain much closer to parallel to the floor as opposed to drooping down.

And X2 on all the above advice - watch out when you rotate the block, it will take your arm off if you're not careful. Don't ask me how I know this... :eek:
 
I have a HF engine stand, works fine with a slant motor on it.
Adjust the arms so the crankshaft is centered to the engine stand roll-over, with the head off it will be about perfect,
with the head on I use a section of pipe to increase the leverage to roll the motor over.

to mount the motor to an engine stand I use standard grade 5 bolts from Lowes, bolt into the rear flange,
use good washers to eliminate any slack, no need to overtighten but make sure the attachment is firm.
When lifting the motor to pull it from a chassis-body I do use grade 8 bolts

ES1.jpg


es2.jpg
 
I found that if you mount a slant six to your stand this way, it is in much better balance and you can even set it at the factory 30* tilt without worrying about it tipping over.
Stand1.jpg

Stand2.jpg
 
@oldmodlover , I see you disagree with my post above. Why do you think not? I sold MAC Tools for 28 years and sold many quality engine stands by 3 or 4 different manufacturers. I would trust a slant 6 or a 460 Ford on most of them but most of the photos I see now are Harbor freight or cheap China built stands from the parts store that I wouldn't trust anything very heavy or long on.
 
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