j par
Well-hung Member
I was firing away today...
Driveshaft hoop pics?
- Thread starter Cope
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n.y.340 dart
Well-Known Member
J par, that’s a hell of a driveshaft hoop. LOL.
Cope
Fusing with fire
You rebuilding the Soviet radar station?
j par
Well-hung Member
Cope
Fusing with fire
Nice.
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Fits great, $90.
Cope
Fusing with fire
Now at 100+ MPH are those 2 bolt gonna hold or it that just gonna tear out and be one more thing inside the cab trying to kill you?
I know mine is over kill but it dam sure will not end up in the cab.
I know mine is over kill but it dam sure will not end up in the cab.
hangn0ut
Well-Known Member
I think the nhra rule book says the hoop is to be attached to the frame. Yours would be the only non tube chassis car I have seen that is done accordingly. Have you seen those hoops that bolt to the trans cross member? Wonder how they would do with a thrashing driveshaft?
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Like this? I picked one up from a member here a while back for mine. I can measure how thick the metal is, but I can tell you it's a good size. Have to look and make sure it has grade 8 bolts in it.
hangn0ut
Well-Known Member
Yeah,that kind.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Guess it's from us car tools here what they say:
100% Bolt in with NO HOLES OR WELDING!!! The US Car Tool Bolt in Driveshaft Loop uses existing factory OEM chassis mounting to securely fasten to the unibody structure of your car. Adjustable to fit all engine / transmission / exhaust combination's. Meets regulations for NHRA and IHRA sanctioning bodies. Crossmember not included. **Does NOT fit any "A" bodies with a spool type transmission mount.Most 72-75 A-Bodies came from the factory with a spool mount crossmember, if you have a 72-75 A-Body, please use the earlier style crossmember with the Drive Shaft Loop.
100% Bolt in with NO HOLES OR WELDING!!! The US Car Tool Bolt in Driveshaft Loop uses existing factory OEM chassis mounting to securely fasten to the unibody structure of your car. Adjustable to fit all engine / transmission / exhaust combination's. Meets regulations for NHRA and IHRA sanctioning bodies. Crossmember not included. **Does NOT fit any "A" bodies with a spool type transmission mount.Most 72-75 A-Bodies came from the factory with a spool mount crossmember, if you have a 72-75 A-Body, please use the earlier style crossmember with the Drive Shaft Loop.
Duane
Well-Known Member
If you can , make the bottom half removable like the summit loop.
I made my own loop years ago and we modified it last winter because with the rear loop in the car I cannot get the driveshaft out of the car. I am going to a removable a&a front yoke to disassemble at the front.
hangn0ut
Well-Known Member
That's gotta be about a foot at least that the hoop is hanging back off it's mount. A driveshaft bouncing around in that at about 5000 rpm....hmmm. I don't know if its gonna stay put.
Matts440
Well-Known Member
Well like it says it made to be able to fit any transmission, well I hope I don't have to find out lol
Just measured today, everything at the closest holes it measures 14.5", and from the trans mount bolts holes put that right after the end of the tail shaft on my 727.
Just measured today, everything at the closest holes it measures 14.5", and from the trans mount bolts holes put that right after the end of the tail shaft on my 727.
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hangn0ut
Well-Known Member
Guess that will not be going on your car. Unless you go to a shortie TF...
Matts440
Well-Known Member
That's the shortest you can go I can go out more. On the picture I posted it's up those two holes showing, I have plenty of adjustment to get it in the right position.
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There’s provisions for 2 more bolts, hadn’t installed them yet.
I’m positive it won’t end up in the cab.
I've hand a universal bolt in type. Changed to one that bolts to the back of the crossmember. Then built this one and welded it in. I noticed increased rigidity with it, weighs less as well.
* Drilled holes into frame connectors on each side. Installed one side and then the other side, with the hoop hanging down a half turn. Then spun it a half turn up into place and welded into place. Torsion bars slide out nicely, no interference.
* Drilled holes into frame connectors on each side. Installed one side and then the other side, with the hoop hanging down a half turn. Then spun it a half turn up into place and welded into place. Torsion bars slide out nicely, no interference.
MObarracuda
Well-Known Member
I’m planning my sub frame connectors and I will borrow your idea. I felt the hoop could be used to add structural rigidity. I was toying with the idea of building a structure that ties the seat bolts to the subframe but this will be simpler and more effective.
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I'll be building and installing the same design in my Dart as well. And the rigidity was immediately noticeable. Just check to make sure your torsion bars slide by before welding it in place.
That is a very clean and impressive underside !!!!!!!
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Thanks!
The Dart should be very comparable when it's finished. Will build a solid drive shaft hoop in the Dart too, once I get to that point.
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