grouted 440 block

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Rmoore

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Got a grouted 440 block. I grouted it out of ignorance of not knowing about the thin wall casting block. Its a 30 over block . building a 512 cubic inch. 270 trick flows. Putting it in a 72 dart swinger with a narrowed dana 60. Question would be !!! I will be driving this on the street and strip. I'm thinking I may have a cooling issue down here in East Texas. It gets really hot and humid here. Anyone one tried this. I have another complete 440 and trans. But would like to save it for a spare if I could !!
 
You most likely will need an oil cooler so you might want to plan ahead. First thing to do is to install an oil temp gauge and then go from there.
 
sorry for my ignorance but why would you do that?
To locate the cylinders. I was under the impression that all I could bore this block was .20 unless I grouted the block. Now in my wiser years I find out that all the thin wall casting blocks was not true. And didn't need to do this. Molar Perf engine book even says no more than .20 on late model blocks. So I did what I was told to do. I ran this motor for along time. No problems. Had to put a higher press rad cap on. But that was it.
 
The extra stiffening at the bottom of the cylinders is not a bad idea for a 4.25 inch crank. It also depends on how much grout as well, is it the maximum amount that will still allow water to circulate or a half inch or less? If it's the maximum fill, plan on a flow kooler or similar high volume pump and as much radiator as can be made to fit. Regardless, AndyF is correct, an oil cooler is a good fix and a straight SAE 30 or 40 weight oil has better shear resistance at high temperatures than multi-vis oils do.
 
The extra stiffening at the bottom of the cylinders is not a bad idea for a 4.25 inch crank. It also depends on how much grout as well, is it the maximum amount that will still allow water to circulate or a half inch or less? If it's the maximum fill, plan on a flow kooler or similar high volume pump and as much radiator as can be made to fit. Regardless, AndyF is correct, an oil cooler is a good fix and a straight SAE 30 or 40 weight oil has better shear resistance at high temperatures than multi-vis oils do.
You grout the block tell the grout starts running out of bottom water pump holes in the block !!
 
You grout the block tell the grout starts running out of bottom water pump holes in the block !!
Okay, I would like Andy F's opinion on this as well but according to Chuck Senatore's "Big Block Mopar Performance" filling past the top of the core plugs in a big block Mopar will block the coolant flow past the first set of head bolt bosses in the cylinder bank and "make an even heavier boat anchor" but I don't know if this applies to 9.98 inch deck B engine only or to 10.72 inch deck RB engine as well. You may want to shine a bright LED light into your lower water pump holes and make sure you can see light shining into the rear of the water jacket through the coolant holes in the rear of the deck.
 
Okay, I would like Andy F's opinion on this as well but according to Chuck Senatore's "Big Block Mopar Performance" filling past the top of the core plugs in a big block Mopar will block the coolant flow past the first set of head bolt bosses in the cylinder bank and "make an even heavier boat anchor" but I don't know if this applies to 9.98 inch deck B engine only or to 10.72 inch deck RB engine as well. You may want to shine a bright LED light into your lower water pump holes and make sure you can see light shining into the rear of the water jacket through the coolant holes in the rear of the deck.
Yes like I said in my earlier post. Totally wasnt necessary at all. But at the time 20 yrs ago I was was just dumb. I hope I haven't ruined this perfectly fine block
 
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