Bypassing the Amp gauge - Question about the MAD Electrical method
I know this is a really old post and I've been reading about the MAD bypass (and other electrical issues) for days. I would like some direction from the FABO experts! The 67 Barracuda I have had many many splices in the entire wiring system, I said had because I'm attempting to rewire it back to the correct way, close to factory, with new wire feeds, eliminating the bulkhead connector, ect. The question on the MAD bypass I have is the red ammeter wire is gone, not in the car, could a single wire set-up work? Looking at the different diagrams it looks like this would be a solution, they same that Shainsboostin and MobileCustoms were asking about. Like I said there is no red ammeter wire in the car, not going to the starter relay, not on the ammeter post, nowhere (not sure what the heck the PO did to the car but it is a mess). I did locate the welded splice within the harness and there are five wires connected to it, one comes straight from the alternator feed (I'm calling this the main feed, right?) there is a black w/tracer going to the lights switch, a red going to the ignition switch, a red w/tracer feeding power to the fuse box, and finally the black ammeter wire. If we are bypassing the ammeter, and alternator black "main feed" wire is going to the starter relay now via a 14 gauge fused link, why couldn't the black ammeter wire be eliminated or at least capped? I would have, from the starter relay, a 16 gauge fusible link connected to a new red wire (gauge size?) that connects to the welded splice. Yea, I know I'm not going to have parallel wires.
I know this is a really old post and I've been reading about the MAD bypass (and other electrical issues) for days. I would like some direction from the FABO experts! The 67 Barracuda I have had many many splices in the entire wiring system, I said had because I'm attempting to rewire it back to the correct way, close to factory, with new wire feeds, eliminating the bulkhead connector, ect. The question on the MAD bypass I have is the red ammeter wire is gone, not in the car, could a single wire set-up work? Looking at the different diagrams it looks like this would be a solution, they same that Shainsboostin and MobileCustoms were asking about. Like I said there is no red ammeter wire in the car, not going to the starter relay, not on the ammeter post, nowhere (not sure what the heck the PO did to the car but it is a mess). I did locate the welded splice within the harness and there are five wires connected to it, one comes straight from the alternator feed (I'm calling this the main feed, right?) there is a black w/tracer going to the lights switch, a red going to the ignition switch, a red w/tracer feeding power to the fuse box, and finally the black ammeter wire. If we are bypassing the ammeter, and alternator black "main feed" wire is going to the starter relay now via a 14 gauge fused link, why couldn't the black ammeter wire be eliminated or at least capped? I would have, from the starter relay, a 16 gauge fusible link connected to a new red wire (gauge size?) that connects to the welded splice. Yea, I know I'm not going to have parallel wires.
