Bypassing the Amp gauge - Question about the MAD Electrical method
The battery is in the trunk with the battery wire going to the starter first then to the starter relay. Never would have thought the battery would need a fuse. What amperage is normally used for that?
Battery in trunk. OK. That heavy cable is also supplying the starter during start. I don't know that you can fuse it. There should be a kill switch or quick disconnect on it.
Reading back to your post # 23. See if there is a wire to the alternator output stud from the starter relay. That's where the fusible link should be. If there isn't one, size it the same as stock, or if the new wire is larger, one size up. That's plenty to carry the loads.
As far as the wire from the main splice to the ammeter goes. I think leaving it is pretty safe and could be useful in the future.
That stud is a good place to attach a parallel wire from the alternator that goes through a grommet instead of the connector.
Or you can use it to reattach a battery feed into the passenger compartment.
If you attached a battery feed to the other side of the ammeter, it will show when the battery is feeding. However it will not show when the battery is charging because the shortest path from alternator to battery is the direct wire.
The alternator is a two field, not sure what the amp output is though, probably 60. It is on its way out anyway and will need replaced, too.
Two field terminals can be easily made to work the same as pre '70 with single field terminal. Simply run a jumper to ground from one of them.
Field is shorthand for magnetic field created by sending electricty through the rotor windings. Pre '70 alternators complete that circuit with one brush connected to the chassis ground. The circuit on later alternators is completed by having the voltage regulator control the ground.