Bypassing the Amp gauge - Question about the MAD Electrical method
Well my alternator does not have two black wire feeds coming off of it. When I replace the alternator it will be at least a 60amp and two fields. What is the correct way to wire this alternator? Dark blue goes to the resistor and the volt reg. Green from the alternator to the other side of the volt regulator. Black wire (10ga.) to a 14ga. fuse link the the starter relay? At least this is the way it is hooked up now. The other side of the resistor has a wire going to the coil and ignition.
Another issue is there are a bunch of wires connected to the starter relay. I know one terminal is for a neutral safety switch (or it is grounded to bypass that) one is for the ignition, one is for the starter solenoid, but what I don't get is what all connects to the large battery lug on the relay? Currently the large blue wire goes to the starter, there is a red wire with a factory appearing fuse link that goes to the bulkhead connector (traced this, it is the red to the ammeter) the black CB looking wire goes to toggle switch #1 in the drivers compartment (I have questions on all four toggle switches in there too! it looks like the CB wire is used as a power source for 3 of the 4 toggles) and there is a black wire, actually a solid copper house wire, that goes to toggle switch #2. On the solenoid terminal there is a green wire, which is a solid copper house wire too, that goes to toggle switch #2. Of course one wire form it goes to the starter solenoid. Toggle switch #1 goes to the starter relay and an aftermarket tach. Toggle switch #2 starts the car via the house wires, lol. Toggle switch #3 is fed/jumped from #1 and goes to the red wire on the Mallory 12V coil. Toggle switch #4 is fed/jumped from #3 and goes to an aftermarket ammeter and oil pressure gauge but neither work, it just for the bulbs.
Sorry, I sort of strayed from the MAD bypass question here.....
Here is the toggle switch panel
Well my alternator does not have two black wire feeds coming off of it. When I replace the alternator it will be at least a 60amp and two fields. What is the correct way to wire this alternator? Dark blue goes to the resistor and the volt reg. Green from the alternator to the other side of the volt regulator. Black wire (10ga.) to a 14ga. fuse link the the starter relay? At least this is the way it is hooked up now. The other side of the resistor has a wire going to the coil and ignition.
Another issue is there are a bunch of wires connected to the starter relay. I know one terminal is for a neutral safety switch (or it is grounded to bypass that) one is for the ignition, one is for the starter solenoid, but what I don't get is what all connects to the large battery lug on the relay? Currently the large blue wire goes to the starter, there is a red wire with a factory appearing fuse link that goes to the bulkhead connector (traced this, it is the red to the ammeter) the black CB looking wire goes to toggle switch #1 in the drivers compartment (I have questions on all four toggle switches in there too! it looks like the CB wire is used as a power source for 3 of the 4 toggles) and there is a black wire, actually a solid copper house wire, that goes to toggle switch #2. On the solenoid terminal there is a green wire, which is a solid copper house wire too, that goes to toggle switch #2. Of course one wire form it goes to the starter solenoid. Toggle switch #1 goes to the starter relay and an aftermarket tach. Toggle switch #2 starts the car via the house wires, lol. Toggle switch #3 is fed/jumped from #1 and goes to the red wire on the Mallory 12V coil. Toggle switch #4 is fed/jumped from #3 and goes to an aftermarket ammeter and oil pressure gauge but neither work, it just for the bulbs.
Sorry, I sort of strayed from the MAD bypass question here.....
Here is the toggle switch panel
