Bypassing the Amp gauge - Question about the MAD Electrical method
Sorry, I sort of strayed from the MAD bypass question here.....
Not a problem with me. The original thread was from 2014 - I doubt your stepping on anyone's toes. If you want to start your own thread, or have a moderator help seperate, I'm sure one of them would help.
When I replace the alternator it will be at least a 60amp and two fields.
What electrical equipment will this car have?
Black wire (10ga.) to a 14ga. fuse link the the starter relay?
That would be OK location for the link as well. Although maybe not the best with the other wiring mods done.
At least this is the way it is hooked up now.
Which raises a couple questions. I'm OK with trying help unravel the existing system, but some place you mentioned returning the system closer to stock. Before we get too deep. Will this car continue to be a race car? What is/are your goals with respect to wiring?
Another issue is there are a bunch of wires connected to the starter relay. I know one terminal is for a neutral safety switch (or it is grounded to bypass that) one is for the ignition, one is for the starter solenoid, but what I don't get is what all connects to the large battery lug on the relay?
At first glance, the stud is being used as a power distribution point.
there is a red wire with a factory appearing fuse link that goes to the bulkhead connector (traced this, it is the red to the ammeter)
Before you thought the ammeter was not connected. So does this red wire stop at the bulkhead connector? Or does it go on to connect to the ammeter? And if it does, does it share a stud with the wire from the main splice?
the large blue wire goes to the starter
Uh?
In the photo you labeled this one as alternator feed,
and the dirty yellow as starter feed with fusible link.
If the photo is correct, then the original alternator feed to the main splice connects to nothing at the bulkhead?
