Bypassing the Amp gauge - Question about the MAD Electrical method

Mattax said
What electrical equipment will this car have?

Just the basics, lights, heater. I'm redoing it to be a street legal strip/bracket car. Have electric fans but they are not in yet and not sure if they are even going to be put in. Maybe I could go with a single field alternator?

Mattax said
Which raises a couple questions. I'm OK with trying help unravel the existing system, but some place you mentioned returning the system closer to stock. Before we get too deep. Will this car continue to be a race car? What is/are your goals with respect to wiring?

I really do appreciate ypur help on this! Yea, race car that can be street driven. Not necessarily to OEM specs but it doesn't appear correct the way things are spliced/hacked together. Basically I'm cleaning the appearance up some and most importantly making good safe connections.

Mattax said
At first glance, the stud is being used as a power distribution point.

That's what it looks like to me too. Is there anything wrong with all those wires hooked to the lug? There are a lot coming off of it.

Mattax said
Before you thought the ammeter was not connected. So does this red wire stop at the bulkhead connector? Or does it go on to connect to the ammeter? And if it does, does it share a stud with the wire from the mine splice?

Yea, the ammeter is not connected to any wires under the dash. Looks like an attempt was made to do the bypass. I traced the red wire with the fuse link to slot Z (and it was melted pretty bad) on the bulkhead connector and it leads to the ammeter.