Bypassing the Amp gauge - Question about the MAD Electrical method
I am open to any and all suggestions you have on correcting this so it is safe, operational, and reliable.
Let me study that layout for a bit more. It appears you forgot to include the ammeter bypass. You show the alternator still going to the welded splice and not the starter relay. Maybe it would be best and easier to simply add in the red ammeter wire back in and connect it to the black ammeter feed to it to complete the bypass? or, since there is an aftermarket ammeter and oil pressure gauge (from toggle#4) re-route the original ammeter wires to it? it is not that far from the original in the dash and I would be up sizing the feeds.
A minor thing too is toggle#2's green wire goes to the sol.terminal on the starter relay.
The aftermarket tachometer is fed from toggle#1. I would defiantly need to keep the tach, it has a rev limiter and shift light.
Thanks Mattax.
Steve
I am open to any and all suggestions you have on correcting this so it is safe, operational, and reliable.
Let me study that layout for a bit more. It appears you forgot to include the ammeter bypass. You show the alternator still going to the welded splice and not the starter relay. Maybe it would be best and easier to simply add in the red ammeter wire back in and connect it to the black ammeter feed to it to complete the bypass? or, since there is an aftermarket ammeter and oil pressure gauge (from toggle#4) re-route the original ammeter wires to it? it is not that far from the original in the dash and I would be up sizing the feeds.
A minor thing too is toggle#2's green wire goes to the sol.terminal on the starter relay.
The aftermarket tachometer is fed from toggle#1. I would defiantly need to keep the tach, it has a rev limiter and shift light.
Thanks Mattax.
Steve
