Bypassing the Amp gauge - Question about the MAD Electrical method
If it looked like this, even with the partially charred fusible link, that completes the main circuits.
There's a few different ways this could be improved.
The ammeter is not the real issue, but the fusible link is pretty good clue that the amperage was too much for the circuit at one time, or cumulatively over time.
Removing both R6 and A1B would result in no connection to the original main power distribution point.
If you need something temporary
Run an auxillery R6 from the alternator output stud (Batt) to the starter relay stud, with a fusible link.
The original R6 line would then still connect to the main splice.
If the connection at P is in poor condition, then a parallel R6 to the ammeter stud could get you going.
Before coming up with a more permanent fix, it would be helpful to know how the alternator field gets its power.
Does the blue field wire to the alternator join at the regulator, or the ballast resistor, or a splice in between?
Following it further back, does it connect to the Ignition 1 wire at the ballast, then back to cavity N ?
But it might be wired to something else, like the new J (red)???
Knowing that, I think we can come up with a good plan, or two. :)
H'm. Someone else may know this off the top of their head. I know with the later 70's era torqueflites, the 3 prong switch on the transmission was one connection to ground in neutral; and two remaining for completing the reverse light circuit. Maybe manual transmissions were the same? Original '67 reverse light switches are on the shifter itself.
OK. So is possible the previous owner had the battery feed/charge wire connected to the ammeter?
If it looked like this, even with the partially charred fusible link, that completes the main circuits.
There's a few different ways this could be improved.
The ammeter is not the real issue, but the fusible link is pretty good clue that the amperage was too much for the circuit at one time, or cumulatively over time.
Removing both R6 and A1B would result in no connection to the original main power distribution point.
If you need something temporary
Run an auxillery R6 from the alternator output stud (Batt) to the starter relay stud, with a fusible link.
The original R6 line would then still connect to the main splice.
If the connection at P is in poor condition, then a parallel R6 to the ammeter stud could get you going.
Before coming up with a more permanent fix, it would be helpful to know how the alternator field gets its power.
Does the blue field wire to the alternator join at the regulator, or the ballast resistor, or a splice in between?
Following it further back, does it connect to the Ignition 1 wire at the ballast, then back to cavity N ?
But it might be wired to something else, like the new J (red)???
Knowing that, I think we can come up with a good plan, or two. :)
