Bypassing the Amp gauge - Question about the MAD Electrical method
As there's no other connection between the battery and the alternator that we're missing - that's probably what we're looking at.
My guess is the connection and fusible link got hot because current was flowing through it all the time because the toggle switches tap in at the starter relay.
Here's what I think. Feel free to think different and say so - its your car!
Toggle switches: Don't see the advantage or need for any of them. If you do want to use some or all, that's fine.
#1. Tach. Don't see why this should be a seperate switch. Should be fused.
#2 Start. Running the full amperage all the way into the passenger compartment makes a long path when there is a relay available just for this purpose. If this is to be kept it should power the relay, not jump it. JMHO.
#3 Ignition Run (and start). Extra distance and connections than stock the way it was, but could be fine depending on final design.
#4. Aux Gage illumination. Don't see why this needs to be seperate from the other gage illumination. Should be fused.
Ignition switch: It's still needed the way the system is configured right now. It's definately possible to have the ignition switch do everything it used to. For a street/strip, I'm leaning that way.
Battery in the trunk. See what the rules say about cut off switch. The current layout is OK. We can also get a little creative if we see some advantage to doing it different.
I'll make some more suggestions later or in the morning.
If there was no connection to the ammeter, then the ignition was running on battery and not getting recharged. I guess it would work that way until the battery ran down. Of course there must have been a wire at some point or the fusible link wouldn't have fried.
As there's no other connection between the battery and the alternator that we're missing - that's probably what we're looking at.
My guess is the connection and fusible link got hot because current was flowing through it all the time because the toggle switches tap in at the starter relay.
That means for the alternator to work, the key had to be in 'run'.
Here's what I think. Feel free to think different and say so - its your car!
Toggle switches: Don't see the advantage or need for any of them. If you do want to use some or all, that's fine.
#1. Tach. Don't see why this should be a seperate switch. Should be fused.
#2 Start. Running the full amperage all the way into the passenger compartment makes a long path when there is a relay available just for this purpose. If this is to be kept it should power the relay, not jump it. JMHO.
#3 Ignition Run (and start). Extra distance and connections than stock the way it was, but could be fine depending on final design.
#4. Aux Gage illumination. Don't see why this needs to be seperate from the other gage illumination. Should be fused.
Ignition switch: It's still needed the way the system is configured right now. It's definately possible to have the ignition switch do everything it used to. For a street/strip, I'm leaning that way.
Battery in the trunk. See what the rules say about cut off switch. The current layout is OK. We can also get a little creative if we see some advantage to doing it different.
I'll make some more suggestions later or in the morning.
