Headers on a 340 Cylinder 7

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340inabbody

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Hi I am having trouble with one header bolt on my 340. Its cylinder 7. I first tried a stock Transdapt hex but no way would it clear the actual header tube. So I ground down a significant portion of the header bolt flange and its still interfering with the cylinder (see picture). So my question to you guys who've "been there done that" what gives? What should I be using?

Thanks

IMG_1713.jpg
 
I was thinking of a grade 5 , 5/16-18 x 3/4 socket .... but I dont have any to try tonight.
 
Sometimes you have to loosen up the other bolts so that you can slide the header away from the head and get the bolt started.
 
Some headers put a dimple near that bolt hole for clearance... If yours doesn't have a dimple, you can always make one with a hammer and punch until you can get a wrench on it... It won't make much difference in performance...

Or finger start each bolt a few threads and pull the header back until you can get the wrench on it and walk it down gradually... Tighten that one first and then work your way to the others...
 
Some headers put a dimple near that bolt hole for clearance... If yours doesn't have a dimple, you can always make one with a hammer and punch until you can get a wrench on it... It won't make much difference in performance...
Are you saying the same thing then as RKelin383 above? It is slotted and was installed by Bubba and I am trying to fix. I didn't think about loosening and then starting it in which is what I tink you guys are getting at right?

Thanks!
 
Are you saying the same thing then as RKelin383 above? It is slotted and was installed by Bubba and I am trying to fix. I didn't think about loosening and then starting it in which is what I tink you guys are getting at right?

Thanks!

Yes, that is another alternative to dimpling the tube...
 
That's a fun set of headers! I've installed long tubes on a few BMW 6 cylinder engines and there are a couple bolts that have to be tightened equally with the header pulled away from the head. Just 1/2 a turn on each bolt repeated over and over until tight... and only an open end wrench would work.
 
Some headers put a dimple near that bolt hole for clearance... If yours doesn't have a dimple, you can always make one with a hammer and punch until you can get a wrench on it... It won't make much difference in performance...

Or finger start each bolt a few threads and pull the header back until you can get the wrench on it and walk it down gradually... Tighten that one first and then work your way to the others...
Thanks Krazykuda very good explanation to help me!
 
Always had to install that one first.
Well thats the problem Bubba tightend them all down but this one. So this is kinda the last one and no dice. Looks like I will have to loosen the whole shabang and get this one in first like you said. We must have the same headers.
 
Had a problem with same bolt on tti headers..,,,I took a grinder to open end wrench to make it narrower....and i actually slotted the head of the bolt to use a flat tip screw driver cause I could not get bolt started..

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That is what is great about FABO. A lot of knowledge here. When your banging your head against the wall, someone will show you a simple fix and you think, Damn, that was easy!
 
It's not uncommon to have to "walk" headers in place in areas where the tubes bend close to the bolt. Just get all of them started really good.
 
I just picked up my Nordlock Washers for my headers. Look forward to see how they do. I think they are reusable.

3F6BC006-6D18-4A38-8831-44963A0B9A8F.jpeg
 
Hey guys been out of commission and still have to wait 4 more weeks to heal. I got all the bolts out except the teo studs on each end.
question:
I think someone had a great comment here but could not find with respect to pulling these studs off and some how blocking the coolant so it does not leak out while I mess with my header alignment. Figues the two easiest nolts on each end are studs lol.
 
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