Removing 68 Barracuda Dash Panel/Instrument Cluster Assembly

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Raul

Raul

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Mukilteo/Marysville, WA
Working on restoration of my instrument panel and gauges. I took off all visible screws but the panel still wont pull out. What am I missing? I'm thinking it should even come out an inch or two without disconnecting the speedo cable or electrical, but it's as though there are other fastener points to deal with. Loose on top but secure on bottom. Also, does the steering column need to be dropped to remove cluster?
 
I drop my column slightly and cover it with an old towel. protects the panel and the column. I don't remove the nuts, just back them out. I have seen them really stuck before. The speedo cable is very tight sometimes. I would remove all switch bezels and the cable. The heater control has two screws or bolts that hold it to the frame of the cluster. I remove them after tipping the loose cluster slightly towards you. Reach up below and gently push on the bottom of the cluster frame and look for fasteners you may have missed.
 
I was able to finagle the old panel out. Found the heater control bolts but it was kinda hard to reach as i had to nearly tilt the dash 90 degrees to get to them. How am i going to put rhe new panel in without scratching it up. I tried loosening the bolts rhat I thought might move the steering column down for additional space but it didn't really help much.
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Here are more photos so far of my current removal
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Wondered about those hard wires too. Thought everything went through the pin olug.. So how can I make the re-install easier? Any pertinent info greatly appreciated
 
That's your ammeter. Good time to do the Mad mod and they wont go back there.
 
Make sure -ve battery clamp is undone. I believe those "star" washers/nuts should be removed. Undo ALL connections before removing. The column once lowered, should drop 6-8" I think. Remember this is 50 year old stuff...get a Factory manual chk mymopar.com for a freebie.
Lots of info posted here about this stuff, so a search.
 
I masking tape the steering column and the metal dash and anything else I want to protect with blue painters tape.
 
There are a bunch of dash restoration threads worth reading. I wish I had read more before I did mine. I would spend a week reading them. It can turn into a lot of work if you do everything that is suggested.
 
One of the steering column support studs has 2 nuts on it. Second one is only to secure ground wires. Anyway... Completely remove all 3 nuts. I'll remove the 3 bolts at firewall plate also. Column will practically fall in the seat. I have removed the steering wheel since that puller is on hand. That was back when I had the big *** OEM wheel.
You can access the climate controller bolts through the glove box opening with that liner removed. You would need a magnet or something sticky to hold the bolt in your socket.
I pull extra speedo cable length into the car so that cable attached serves as a helping hand but... some of what I do probably isn't necessary for all.
Some can lift out a seat and lay in the floor and reach up, etc... I cannot. What I can't do from on my knees at the door opening, I can do while sitting in the seats.
 
RedFish said:
One of the steering column support studs has 2 nuts on it. Second one is only to secure ground wires. Anyway... Completely remove all 3 nuts. I'll remove the 3 bolts at firewall plate also. Column will practically fall in the seat. I have removed the steering wheel since that puller is on hand. That was back when I had the big *** OEM wheel.
You can access the climate controller bolts through the glove box opening with that liner removed. You would need a magnet or something sticky to hold the bolt in your socket.
I pull extra speedo cable length into the car so that cable attached serves as a helping hand but... some of what I do probably isn't necessary for all.
Some can lift out a seat and lay in the floor and reach up, etc... I cannot. What I can't do from on my knees at the door opening, I can do while sitting in the seats.
Click to expand...
Thank you for that info.... Dash is out; I'm thinking or reworking the steering wheel anyways, so hopefully I can get it back in easy enough and can fish through the glovebox getting the heater controls fastened back in good. Here's another question.... While my dash is out, Is it safe for the car and the wiring that I drive with the dash/instrumentation disconnected and is there anything I need to do beforehand? What about the exposed alternator wires?
 
I've drove one for a few weeks without the inst' panel. You have to connect the red and black at amp gauge together. I used a 3/16 nut and bolt, then tape wrapped well. Of course the steering column needs to be securely bolted. Trusting judgement of mph, fuel onboard, etc...
 
One thing I just remembered... you probably need to make a temporary support bracket for the wiper switch. My variable 3 speed switch needed chassis ground. Could be that they all do. I used short pieces of plumber strap for both wiper and headlight switches. Same bezel nuts to hold the strap to the switches, same screws with flat washers to attach strap to where the inst' panel was attached.
My memory fails but I think I hung the climate controller in radio holes with zip ties.
 
Raul said:
Here are more photos so far of my current removalView attachment 1715268968 View attachment 1715268969Wondered about those hard wires too. Thought everything went through the pin olug.. So how can I make the re-install easier? Any pertinent info greatly appreciated
Click to expand...

Someone just bypassed the Amp gauge by putting them on the same terminal. The bulkhead plug bypass is an equally important step in reducing the all too common electrical problem Mopars have. Its as simple as it gets.

Oh, and be sure you disconnect the positive battery cable.
 
Just noticed this is a column shift example. Don't be surprised if when you get it all back together it wont start. I don't know exactly how/where we loose the neutral safety switch adjustment when we lower the column but it happens. Maybe how far the column is dropped makes a difference.
Anyway... You might pull up or wiggle on the shifter or go to neutral to get start. Only cure is go under the car to correct the linkage adjustment.
 
If you plan to put the amp gauge wires back like OEM... flag those studs with something to identify them before taking the panel to the dash. RED is marked on the board but we really can't see that peeking over/around the dang thing. I used twisted electric tape for ribbon leaders. Longer of the 2 on black because its a longer word. LOL
Threaded that through the ring terminal, terminal onto stud before pulling my tape leader off the stud.
Round harness connector has its locating key in its center. Again difficult to see. A little white out to mark that key location on the outside of the connector can help. Mark goes to top.
 
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