for the body guys

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The last 2 days of work. I sanded my original engine bay with 180. SPI Epoxy two coats then shot single stage in the topcoat window for this epoxy.
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that looks great!
so metal repair,filler and then seal with epoxy primer asap?
or apply filler after epoxy primer?
 
ir3333 said:
that looks great!
so metal repair,filler and then seal with epoxy primer asap?
or apply filler after epoxy primer?
Click to expand...
Like just mentioned, old school is filler over CLEAN bare metal. He said he had seen it be good after 20 yrs. I bet the key there is CLEAN metal, New way of epoxy primer over cleaned metal, then filler The epoxy seals the bare metal, and sticks well. The filler needs some time to shrink. The better the filler the less shrink? Then high fill primer, seal with reduced epoxy, topcoat. That is many people's method.
IF you have metal that has pitted, it needs a cleaner to kill that rust in those pits, BUT NOT "that "converter" stuff you apply to do the wonder drug thing!! If you use a phosphoric acid be sure to neutralize it need be, as some epoxy will react!
When you buy paint material that is pro stuff it will have a tech sheet with it. That gives info as to tip size , flash and dry times, recoat and sanding windows.
 
barbee6043 said:
Like just mentioned, old school is filler over CLEAN bare metal. He said he had seen it be good after 20 yrs. I bet the key there is CLEAN metal, New way of epoxy primer over cleaned metal, then filler The epoxy seals the bare metal, and sticks well. The filler needs some time to shrink. The better the filler the less shrink? Then high fill primer, seal with reduced epoxy, topcoat. That is many people's method.
IF you have metal that has pitted, it needs a cleaner to kill that rust in those pits, BUT NOT "that "converter" stuff you apply to do the wonder drug thing!! If you use a phosphoric acid be sure to neutralize it need be, as some epoxy will react!
When you buy paint material that is pro stuff it will have a tech sheet with it. That gives info as to tip size , flash and dry times, recoat and sanding windows.
Click to expand...
That's how I see it I couldn't have said it any better barbee6043.
 
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This 1/4 had some damage in the front and posted it earlier the rest of it had some small door dings I decided to get rid of the factory ripples with filler as good as I could then will prime and block. Lots of hand blocking and sweat but just my way to do it.
 
OK..because i will be doing the metal work over a period of time i decided to try Eeastwood Fast
Etch to get any rust the 80 grit didn't and prevent any flash rusting over the next while (hey,i'm old and in no hurry).
I made the mistake of leaving too much product on and it dried with a heavy rust protecting grey film.It will have to be sanded off,which i was going to do anyway or reapplied and dried more thoroughly before cleaning with acetone and priming.
To it's credit it is an excellent rust remover and should protect the bare metal indefinately inside my shop.Just don't leave it too wet if you use this product!
 
There are rust ecapsulators and then there are acids like phosphoric solutions that do kill rust and but not coat it, but leave a phorphate sort of dust like material there which I wipe off unless I neutralize it with water. Again I will mention if that acid is not neutralized there an be a reaction to primers, especially they also contain an acid. Some epoxies and etch primers. I do not like to the water on it, seems to void some of the acids work. Some might say the acid must be neutralized or it will eat at the metal long term?? .I have been told by body men Pros ( of which I readily admit I am NOT) NOT to use the rust ecapusators, under any area but maybe the inside floor pans. Not on exterior that must be and remain perfect. I mention this not to argue with anyone or put down Eastwoods products. They have excellent products but I have found that for body/paint, to go to the pro shops, like local PPG store, Southern Urethans, TCP , et....
Several decades ago, I have used PPG acid prep products worked great but very expensive so I have found some alternative products.
I am always looking to learn and improve my methods.
I am like many, I can not afford to pay a shop $5-6000 for paint work, especially on a car that will never justify that investment, so I plug away doing it all myself. Fortunately I build what most of us all drivers! not perfect show poodles.
 
barbee6043 said:
There are rust ecapsulators and then there are acids like phosphoric solutions that do kill rust and but not coat it, but leave a phorphate sort of dust like material there which I wipe off unless I neutralize it with water. Again I will mention if that acid is not neutralized there an be a reaction to primers, especially they also contain an acid. Some epoxies and etch primers. I do not like to the water on it, seems to void some of the acids work. Some might say the acid must be neutralized or it will eat at the metal long term?? .I have been told by body men Pros ( of which I readily admit I am NOT) NOT to use the rust ecapusators, under any area but maybe the inside floor pans. Not on exterior that must be and remain perfect. I mention this not to argue with anyone or put down Eastwoods products. They have excellent products but I have found that for body/paint, to go to the pro shops, like local PPG store, Southern Urethans, TCP , et....
Several decades ago, I have used PPG acid prep products worked great but very expensive so I have found some alternative products.
I am always looking to learn and improve my methods.
I am like many, I can not afford to pay a shop $5-6000 for paint work, especially on a car that will never justify that investment, so I plug away doing it all myself. Fortunately I build what most of us all drivers! not perfect show poodles.
Click to expand...
True if you don't get the acid off it will cause all sorts of problems.
Just my 2 cents on painting and priming for you guys that don't know. You best read the label on the product that you are using to make sure when to put the next coat of primer or paint down that you WAIT long enough for it to dry according to the directions and humidity and temp makes a big difference also. Iv'e seen cars that have "solvent popping" after all painted and polishing is done Or the clear coat falls off after a few years. You will be taking all the paint back off to fix it right and a lot of wasted time and money.
Take your time don't rush it let it cure before you put on another coat.
 
Eastwood Fast Tech leaves a zinc phosphate film that prevents rust.It needs to be removed with acetone or they have their own pre paint prep to remove it before priming.
 
After the metal repair i am planning on sanding all the sheet metal again with 120 grit and chemically cleaning it with acetone or Eastwoods pre paint prep.
Seems i do everything the hard way
 
ir3333 said:
After the metal repair i am planning on sanding all the sheet metal again with 120 grit and chemically cleaning it with acetone or Eastwoods pre paint prep.
Seems i do everything the hard way
Click to expand...
Let me know wen you find an easy way to do it. lol
 
I strip with 80 grit, then go over with a DA and 120. Metal repair gets done. Then it gets etching primer, and I bodywork over that before hitting it with high build and following with blocking.

Edit - adding my agreement to warning on reading labels and being very familiar with the product being used. Mixing, order of operations, and flash time in between coats are all crucial. Also - use the same brand start to finish.
 
moper said:
I strip with 80 grit, then go over with a DA and 120. Metal repair gets done. Then it gets etching primer, and I bodywork over that before hitting it with high build and following with blocking.

Edit - adding my agreement to warning on reading labels and being very familiar with the product being used. Mixing, order of operations, and flash time in between coats are all crucial. Also - use the same brand start to finish.
Click to expand...
Fred has forgotten more about body work than most will ever know. I had him swing by my shop and look at my Demon, a perfect example of how not to paint. Like you I just bought a gun did a bunch of reading and had at it. Fred saw my efforts on my Cuda and asks me what type of gun did you use? I shrugged, and went I dunno! It's around here someplace, I got it at Menards I think! It was red and black. PS Fred I found the gun it is a Husky. Listen to these guys they are a wealth of knowledge. My Demon has solvent blisters stem to stern. I will have to strip it to paint it.
 
Sublime one said:
Fred has forgotten more about body work than most will ever know. I had him swing by my shop and look at my Demon, a perfect example of how not to paint. Like you I just bought a gun did a bunch of reading and had at it. Fred saw my efforts on my Cuda and asks me what type of gun did you use? I shrugged, and went I dunno! It's around here someplace, I got it at Menards I think! It was red and black. PS Fred I found the gun it is a Husky. Listen to these guys they are a wealth of knowledge. My Demon has solvent blisters stem to stern. I will have to strip it to paint it.
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Your to kind Sublime one but next time you paint I will give you a good gun or just come over and paint it for you because you have the best Bourbon. And I need some quality welding done and you are the best.
 
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