How do you get a Suspension to hook, when the track surface is marginal at best

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I would tack weld a 1 inch thick piece of steel to the floor above pinion snubber and see how it works 1 3/4 way to much room
 
Better shocks do wonders for hook.

Plenty of cars go in the 1.40's with no snubber junk under the car. It's a crutch and can actually work against you.

Looks like the tire could use more air being a drag radial from the looks of it.

I bet the front end, which is where a LOT of time is tied up is in need of some adjustments.

8.75's love to bend between the outer u-bolt and housing ends. Back braces do nothing to fix that.
 
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Thanks all for your thoughts and opinions.
The new tires/ slicks are a M/T 28/10.5/15 tube type drag slick.
The slick i have been using are also a drag slick only 26/10/15. have never ran a drag radial.
I have old worn out shock on the front and MP drag shock on the rear. 12+ years old. I have broke down and bought new shock for the front and rear. they are only two way shocks, but that will allow me to do and learn some shock work this time around.
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Thanks on the axle tube tip, i will give this area a closer look!
 
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Did a pre assembled of my axle housing today to get the pinion angle, and center the axle in the car. So the leaf spring purch can get welded to the housing.
cleaning up the nut for the "axle to housing" and notice some think i have not noticed before. the nuts on the right side were normal but the ones on the left side had a tiny hole drilled in the nuts with plastic injected into them.

Not that it matter, just something i have never noticed before.
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axle nuts.PNG
 
Did a pre assembled of my axle housing today to get the pinion angle, and center the axle in the car. So the leaf spring purch can get welded to the housing.
cleaning up the nut for the "axle to housing" and notice some think i have not noticed before. the nuts on the right side were normal but the ones on the left side had a tiny hole drilled in the nuts with plastic injected into them.

Not that it matter, just something i have never noticed before.
View attachment 1715271671 View attachment 1715271672
 
I did not say Lug Nuts. LOL i said
Cleaning up the nut for the "axle to housing" and notice something i have not noticed before.
 
Yeah i realize that. Just didn't think they did it back in the day..........and in all the axles i have changed.......I have never noticed this. And why us the locking nuts on only the the one side, driver/Left side?
 
You don't need to cut up your car to get traction . Not any more . We just came back from testing '66 Cuda with 9x28" Radials . 10.65 sec @ 122.63 with a 150ft wheels up launch @3200lbs.
 
Probably the same reason they used left hand lugnuts on one side.

You know, that was my thought exactly. But these nuts don't rotate to cause the possibility of spinning loose. They stay stationary. But maybe that was there thought back in the day.:realcrazy:
 
You don't need to cut up your car to get traction . Not any more . We just came back from testing '66 Cuda with 9x28" Radials . 10.65 sec @ 122.63 with a 150ft wheels up launch @3200lbs.

What is the rear suspension?
 
Super Stock springs with a pinion snubber and 50/50 shocks . that's it . right out of the old Direct Connection chassis book . Our best friend has a B/SA roadrunner in the low 10's with the same rear setup . The A/SA folks are in the 9's .
 
Pinion angle still needs to be right. No matter what rear suspension you run. And all 4 wheels needs to be supported. Then you can check your pinion angle.
 
yup, took me all day to center axle, and set pinion angle.
Finally ready to be welded.
 
leaf spring Perches weld, back brace welded and a fresh coat of black paint

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