motor wont stay running

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moparraceman

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64 dart had a slant 6 in it ,put 340 electronic ign replacing point type dist. put chrome box in with electronic dist use wiring diagram in mopar perf book, motor start but shuts off as soon as i leave go of key must have a wire i didnt put on,maybe something about the ignition switch or ballast resister any suggestion thanks
 
Yep, bypass the ballast resistor with a short jumper wire and see if it stays running.
 
Wired wrong. Some of the diagrams shown for that setup are misleading

THERE IS NO NEED TO CHANGE THE WIRING specific to the original ballast resistor. If they gave you a new resistor, simply unhook the old and install the new. Then run the power wire "from the box" to the "key" side of the ballast or to the IGN terminal on your voltage regulator

SIDE NOTE CHECK for voltage drop. Turn key on, engine stopped. Check voltage at VR "IGN" terminal. Compare that voltage to battery. Should be within 3/10 or less "same as battery." If not you have a harness/ voltage drop problem

Additionally make SURE the ECU box is well grounded. MUST be grounded, as well as the VR
 
Go the electrical section; quicker response on this matter there.
- Your '64 would have both wires direct to the coil +, one direct from the ignition switch during START, and then one that feeds power to the coil + through the ballast for RUN.
- What you need for the for the later system is those 2 wires plus a wire that feeds battery voltage to the box anytime the switch is in START or RUN.
- The original /6 ballast would be right but do you have it? Just putting any old ballast resistor in there does not work well.
67Dart273 said:
Wired wrong. Some of the diagrams shown for that setup are misleading

THERE IS NO NEED TO CHANGE THE WIRING specific to the original ballast resistor. If they gave you a new resistor, simply unhook the old and install the new. Then run the power wire "from the box" to the "key" side of the ballast or to the IGN terminal on your voltage regulator

SIDE NOTE CHECK for voltage drop. Turn key on, engine stopped. Check voltage at VR "IGN" terminal. Compare that voltage to battery. Should be within 3/10 or less "same as battery." If not you have a harness/ voltage drop problem

Additionally make SURE the ECU box is well grounded. MUST be grounded, as well as the VR
Click to expand...
OP...listen here ^^^^^
 
post a diagram of the way it should be wired] if it runs for a few seconds then it would not be the box ? it runs till i leave go of the key starts eight up ?
 
moparraceman said:
post a diagram of the way it should be wired] if it runs for a few seconds then it would not be the box ? it runs till i leave go of the key starts eight up ?
Click to expand...

You are going to have to re-word this I have no idea what you mean.

HERE is how Mopar ignition switches work

There is ONE only power from the ignition switch through the bulkhead to the engine bay in the "run" position of the switch. This wire, often "dark blue" also known as IGN1, is hot ONLY in run. ONLY. It is NOT powered during cranking. This wire branches off and depending on year/ model, feeds ignition system (ballast), voltage regulator, alternator field, some smog devices some years, idle solenoid if used, and electric choke if used.

There is ANOTHER wire that is hot during cranking. This wire is normally brown, also known as "IGN1". It is hot ONLY during cranking and only goes one place........from a special contact on the ignition switch, through the bulkhead, to the coil + side of the ballast resistor.

It feeds full battery voltage to the coil during cranking, and backfeeds through the resistor to power the electronic ignition.

Likely it is running off IGN2, and when you release the key, the "run" voltage is not there, due to a wiring error, broken wire, etc.

THIS SHOULD BE EASY to troubleshoot.

Download a wiring diagram and or shop manual for your car, free, from MyMopar

Check with key in "run" position and see if the VR IGN post has power. If so, then the IGN1 "run" is getting from the ignition switch to the VR, and now check coil + You should get anywhere from 6--10V at the coil.

Now check the power wire on your electronic box and see if it has power. It should be pretty much full battery voltage.
 
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