What to do under the dash besides this?
Likewise a voltmeter on the instrument panel will indicate whether there is potential to charge. To be most accurate, it needs to be measuring voltage where resistances are a minimum when current is flowing. Checking at the power sources( as described above) is best when there are any doubts.
Alternator output goes to the main splice (except '76) and then directly to whatever is drawing current.
Charging current then goes from the main splice to the ammeter and on to the battery until its satisfied.
Basic power feed and distribution:
Alternator feed provides power when the engine is running.
Battery feed provides power when the alternator is not running or its voltage is higher. It is also the battery's recharging line.
You don't know. You can use a hand held voltmeter and check the system voltage while running at the alternator and the battery positive for potential to charge. Then with the engine off, check the voltage of the battery. If its between 12.5 to 13.0 its probably charged. flip the lights on for a couple seconds and recheck. It should be 12.5 to 12.8 V. OTH an ammeter does not reveal battery condition, so this is a useful check anyway when doing a diagnostic without a carbon pile.
Likewise a voltmeter on the instrument panel will indicate whether there is potential to charge. To be most accurate, it needs to be measuring voltage where resistances are a minimum when current is flowing. Checking at the power sources( as described above) is best when there are any doubts.
Not quite.
Alternator output goes to the main splice (except '76) and then directly to whatever is drawing current.
Charging current then goes from the main splice to the ammeter and on to the battery until its satisfied.
Basic power feed and distribution:
Alternator feed provides power when the engine is running.
Battery feed provides power when the alternator is not running or its voltage is higher. It is also the battery's recharging line.
