Did I wipe a lobe or ???

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It looks like part of the block is missing near the intermediate shaft.
 
440seven said:
Thanks for all the input guys. I’m gonna year back into it hopefully this evening. If I can clear my workload. I’ll try and get a good measurement on lifts first. My lifters aren’t squishy at all (which may could be a problem??) figures they were just pumped up. I’ll cut open filter as well and check all my header bolts for tightness.

On those pushrods I’m pretty certain the rub marks are from my run. If you can see the pic in first post notice the rotational marks instead of vertical marking, what would this indicate?
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The lifters rotate when the engine is running, and the push rods can too. So your pushrods are rubbing on the heads. Hence the rotational marks. Run (idle) the engine with the valve covers off, and use a short piece of hose held up to your ear. Hold the other end near each rocker arm pushrod, and find the source of the noise. It will be quite obvious, as the sound will come thru loud and clear thru the hose. I use a short piece of garden hose. Fuel line works too. You will need to grind or file away some metal around the push rod holes to fix it.
 
If something is supposed to be here I’d never now. Valley has been cleaned up of some casting flash so maybe your seeing a weird angle or something

E5C48D3E-C64F-4F74-B9FA-67ACC1EA8BC4.jpeg
 
The block's fine.
On every aftermarket head I've run I've elongated the pushrod hole so things don't hit. It's normal - not a flaw. Get some real rockers and correct length high quality 5/16 pushrods and it should be fine.
 
While your at it, check the fuel pump push rod and that lobe that drives it, in case that thing is screwed. They can click/tick.
 
Since you’re already into it this far, before putting the intake back on...... i’d suggest reassembling the rocker gear first, and then bumping the motor over with the starter and checking the lifter rotation.
 
It's going back together with some mopar adjustables so I'll have to measure for new rods and order those, then get everything back together. Sort of a relief to see everything is fine thus far though.

Anyone got suggestions on a better valley type?
 
440seven said:
It's going back together with some mopar adjustables so I'll have to measure for new rods and order those, then get everything back together. Sort of a relief to see everything is fine thus far though.

Anyone got suggestions on a better valley type?
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440 source has a permanent valley pan, it stays on there. Then you use the paper type intake gaskets for the manifold. Only problem here is, the valley cover edge sits below the cyl head. So you can remove the intake, but to access the lifters you have to pull at least 1 head! There may be another type I don't know about. I think Moroso, Mancini, Mopar, and others may have them too. Also, stage VI heads use the stock valley pan with the manifold port area cut off. Then a spacer goes over that, and you use the paper gaskets. Then the spacer can be removed, and the valley cover.
 
PRH said:
Since you’re already into it this far, before putting the intake back on...... i’d suggest reassembling the rocker gear first, and then bumping the motor over with the starter and checking the lifter rotation.
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Yes I would slide every lifter out of its hole. Just to make sure each lifter will come out easily.
 
PRH said:
Since you’re already into it this far, before putting the intake back on...... i’d suggest reassembling the rocker gear first, and then bumping the motor over with the starter and checking the lifter rotation.
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Totally agree with this......AND check everything with a magnifying glass in necessary. You have the intake off NOW. PRH just brought home the gold with that suggestion.
 
440seven said:
It's going back together with some mopar adjustables so I'll have to measure for new rods and order those, then get everything back together. Sort of a relief to see everything is fine thus far though.

Anyone got suggestions on a better valley type?
Click to expand...
Hughes has several, that don't require head removal. Some have a clear plastic cover. You can see the cam when it's running. Check out the AR 300A. Might work for you.
 
Aight fellas while I’m waiting to shakedown everything I’ve gone ahead and set up new rockers to measure for new pushrods. Got a few questions.

1.) Rockers are off the center of the valve stem pretty good in some places. How do I fix this.
A509B99B-5B30-440B-AEFF-6295D81646B9.jpeg


2.) When I measure for these new ball/cup rods from what point do I measure? Saw where some folks say at the bottom of cups to tip and others basically tip to tip. Was hoping to find something off the shelf for this application.
B1520672-A676-43D5-8971-D57F6EC61038.jpeg
 
You may try swapping rockers around until they line up better. Also may be able to file/grind the edge of the hold down part a little for fine tuning. Also try loosening the bolt, and slide the hold down left or right. I would think tip to tip on the pushrod length. No way to accurately measure inside the cup.
 
ms2420 said:
just a thought, have you checked torque converter bolts? engine accessories?
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Good idea. I once had a 451 in a Belvedere, and it Started knocking real loud. I was getting ready to pull the motor, but checked the T/C bolts first. Sure enough, 2 had backed out a little, and were hitting the Block! Easy fix, I put em back in with Loc Tite. That's why I suggest using a piece of hose to isolate the knocking sound first.
 
440seven said:
I was messing around the other day after I got my new exhaust welded up and put back in. Cranked her up and noticed a hefty tick.
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I know you've already torn into the motor, but from the clip you posted, it could be an exhaust leak. The fact that you started noticing it right after welding up a new system may not just be a coincidence...
 
Gdub310 said:
I know you've already torn into the motor, but from the clip you posted, it could be an exhaust leak. The fact that you started noticing it right after welding up a new system may not just be a coincidence...
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See Rely No. 2.............
 
Been delayed in working on it. (I work from home and had to get some stuff done) Still need to get all of my rockers in place and get my pushrod measurements. Easier for me to do it on the ground as opposed to up higher on stands. Called Smith brothers and got quoted but I want to double check my measurements to get them right the first time. I noticed my intake and exhaust valves stems have different heights so it seems I need to measure a few and get an average plus .040 for preload (correct???).
Got a new bathtub for the valley but I really want to wait and get one of those nicer plates AndyF makes. We'll see. I'll get it back in the air and check those TC bolts and make sure its not that too. Man that would really suck after tearing all of this apart, but oh well.

Max1196 said:
Hydraulic or mechanical cam?
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Max, it's hydraulic.
 
Reason why I asked is, in the past I had rockers wanting to "walk" sideways on the shafts, with a hydraulic application, it wont do it with a mechanical cause there's that moment of free play that exists. My point is, the use of the springs on the shafts instead of something solid in place of the spring you may want to consider. The hydraulic profile will always have a load and may want to take the easy way out by jacking stuff sideways.
 
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