Problems installing new pushrods!

Hi Carl,
First, per Harland Sharp instructions, no more than 2-3 threads showing ball side of stud max, not ideal. You will break it off and also screw up your pushrod geometry. Second, forget about feel. Use actual measurement as in post #12-#13-#21 with chart in post #24 from top of lifter plunger to snap ring. No matter whose hydraulic lifter that clearance/preload is .050-.080 and will
cover any thermal dimensional change, block/heads/pushrods. No need to adjust like a chevy again, ours stay where you adjust them ;-). All hydraulic lifters work the same way, flat or roller. Anti-pump up just has more clearance from plunger to body to
bleed a little faster. Run to heavy oil viscosity and they loose there advantage.

In your picture it seems you bottomed the lifter plunger and are holding the valve open, or your pushrods are to short. Lifters
without oil take .200 or more to bottom out and the pushrod will finger spin until they hit bottom then you preload the valve
open. If that is what happened then your pushrods might be OK. Measure/Measure/and Measure again, install in car and
whoopa##. Feel/feel/twist twist slap slap and all you have is brand x. ;-) Just poke'in fun, they all run with the right attention.

Rick