yes the 6 spring kit pictured
I dont see them on his website... sent him a text.
yes the 6 spring kit pictured
I'm going to try the two light springs as a start and go from there. No fancy machine available. If the curve is way off I'll order the springs and plate. I'm hoping I get lucky since this build is on the cheap. Thanks guys!Well, I guess best case scenario is to use a distributor machine if you can get access to one. Your baseline based on your combination is still a "guess" being that you are going to get "close" as far as how much static, and how much mechanical all in by what rpm. You are still going to have to fine tune in what is "optimal to your combination" with some seat of the pants, chassis dyno, or preferably, drag strip tuning.
Why are we "guessing" at what works? Put your combo on a distributer machine and know how much advance you have. Also it will show you the rate of advance at any RPM. Use the machine and know what you got and tailor the advance to meet your needs.
I've seen that plate and spring kit. If the new distributor has a advance plate over 13 then I'll probably go with that kit. I'm not looking for every tenth down the drag strip but I definitely would like to wake up my 318!
Don't even need a dist. machine. We all have timing lights, don't we?Why are we "guessing" at what works? Put your combo on a distributer machine and know how much advance you have. Also it will show you the rate of advance at any RPM. Use the machine and know what you got and tailor the advance to meet your needs.
So I'm upgrading my points ignition on my '71 318 Dart to factory electronic ignition. I know that the factory distributors have quite a long advance. Would taking the light spring from my old distributor and putting it in place of my heavy spring in the new distributor give me a fairly good advance curve? I know total advance won't be affected. Anyone try this before?
Will do. This is just a fun car/ budget build so every tiny fraction of hp isn't essential. Just doing the best with what I have.The distributor machine for me is essential since I do by the number stock rebuilds mostly. But who has the room for one once every few years? A car works fine with a light and a tach. You need some springs let me know I will send them to you. There are a ton of different rate "light" springs out there and I have done that on certain ones for a custom curve works great.
Yes, one light one that is a little on the stiff side out of my 318 smog distributor and an even lighter one from an ‘85 D350 360 distributor. My underhood tach/dwell meter was a being a little fidgety that day but advance is all in between 25-26 hundred rpm. I am right there with you on the fun part, but can’t keep myself from going after everything I can find on the table for free.Just clarifying, you used two stock Mopar light springs and not aftermarket? If so, that's pretty much dead on what I'm aiming for.
That’s good to know, do you care to show us a pic of that if you have a unit handy? I know I’ll be re-curving when I make the change to deeper gears, and may need the extra adjustmentJust fyi the studs the springs go to are eccentric and you can tighten and also loosen them and you can possibly get more out of it if you just need a bit.