Battling overheating new 360 build

Like I said;
I run a minimum 205 and a max of 207, and with the tips I gave, my 4.04 bore 360 has ZERO heating issues, goes 93#3467pounds with 34* timing on 87E10 (OOTB Eddies),in the Eighth with a 230*cam, and will idle down to 550 rpm, parading at 4 mph@5* advance, all with a 45 year old rad, that has more patches on it than I can remember.
And, with a 223* cam, it has cruised over 580 miles on a tank of gas, at speeds between 65 and 85 with a final drive of 1.97.
I'll leave you with this final tip: if you installed your rings at the KB spec of .026, this was too tight for my top ring, to run at 205*F,lol. I had to open it up to .032 IIRC. And my KB107s are in at .004 and change....... so they would stop locking up every time I shut it off. I took that engine apart 5 or 6 winters in a row, fixing one step atta time, and the pay-off was the 93mph trap speed.
I'm not gonna argue with what you believe. I tell you what worked for me,so you may benefit from my experience, or not, as you wish.

Riddle me this; how long does it take for your factory gauge to tell you the engine is fully warmed up, after the IR gun says it is fully warmed up.............
Then think about that. when the gauge starts moving higher than it's normal. When it starts moving, it has already been "overheating" for perhaps a minute or perhaps two, depending on your particular gauge.
Furthermore with dual bypasses, what is your temp sender actually measuring? The pump has a much easier time pulling in the hot water from the top of the engine, than lifting the denser colder water up from below, especially if it doesn't have an anti-cav plate, and only 6 vanes. And you wonder why your rad has a 35* or more temp difference from top to bottom? Maybe, just maybe...... it ain't circulating because of what is going on inside the pump.................