Installing subframe connectors

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Garys72Duster

Garys72Duster

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Thought I would start a thread showing the step by step installation of some Mopar Performance subframe connectors. 1970 Dodge Dart Custom, 111" wheelbase. Started by removing the parking brake cable where it goes thru the front subframe. It has to be re located up and to the left, as the front mount goes right there, according to the instructions. Here are some pics, 1 of the Dart, and 1 of the mount area cleaned up and ready for the front of the connector. I plan to weld them in within a few months, so it needs to be down to bare metal there.

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Make sure you level the car and close the doors. (and the trunk lid) It might not close after some welding. :BangHead::BangHead:
 
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Front of rear subframe. Factory paint covered with undercoating. Hard as a rock
No scraping this one off!
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Sprayed it with WD 40. Maybe that will soften it up. The front one was oil soaked, and scraped off easily. Bottom of rear subframe has hit a few rocks! LOL
 
Haven't got hold of a torch yet, but the WD-40 really softened it up. Scraped right off after soaking all night.
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You can see the front leaf spring mount studs sticking thru on the right. All the forward push for the entire car comes through the front half of the leaf spring and into the frame right there! That's one reason the connectors are needed. Transfers forward thrust through the connectors, rather than the body of the car.
 
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Here are some pics of the bolt in sub frame connectors for my 1970 Dart with the 111" wheelbase. Mopar Performance.
 
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I am going to use larger bolts to attach the rear of the connector to the frame. Going from 7/16" to 1/2". The holes in the connectors are already drilled for 1/2", don't know why they send 7/16" bolts. Will also fabricate some crush sleeves to put in the frame, to keep the frame sides from collapsing. I'm using 3/8 pipe, which has an ID of 1/2 inch, and fits the bolt snugly. OD of pipe is 11/16". Here are some pics of the pipe for the crush sleeve on the left, with the 1/2" bolt in the center. Smaller 7/16 bolt is on the right.
 
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OK, so got all the holes drilled, bolts fit good. 1/2" bolt fits snugly inside the crush sleeve made from 3/8 pipe. This pipe has a 1/2 ID, and 11/16 OD! Why do they call it 3/8?? Haha. I cut the pipe to fit tight inside the frame, worked it up inside there thru the holes on the bottom. If you get 1 end close to a bolt hole in the frame, you can stick a large Phillips in there and lever it into position. Pretty tight fit, they stay in there! Using 1/2" grade 8 bolts at the rear, instead of the 7/16 ones supplied with the connectors. The 7/16 bolts will work at the front. Here's a few pics showing the bolt in the crush sleeve, and the sleeve inside the frame.
 
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Got the connector painted, all holes drilled, crush sleeves fabricated and installed. Ready to do the final installation tomorrow. You would think that for $220, Mopar Performance could have powder coated, or at least painted them. The Comp Engineering ones were powder coated, for a little less money.
 
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Well dun sir :thumbsup::thumbsup:

If my sedan had lower gears and I raced it a bunch this is a perfect do it right thread I believe :thumbsup:
Thank you for your time it took to share :thankyou:
 
Garys72Duster said:
View attachment 1715277567 View attachment 1715277568 View attachment 1715277569 View attachment 1715277570 OK, so got all the holes drilled, bolts fit good. 1/2" bolt fits snugly inside the crush sleeve made from 3/8 pipe. This pipe has a 1/2 ID, and 11/16 OD! Why do they call it 3/8?? Haha. I cut the pipe to fit tight inside the frame, worked it up inside there thru the holes on the bottom. If you get 1 end close to a bolt hole in the frame, you can stick a large Phillips in there and lever it into position. Pretty tight fit, they stay in there! Using 1/2" grade 8 bolts at the rear, instead of the 7/16 ones supplied with the connectors. The 7/16 bolts will work at the front. Here's a few pics showing the bolt in the crush sleeve, and the sleeve inside the frame.
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Nicely done!
 
Protect yourself. My welder ended up in the emergency room with a nasty rash from asbestos(?)when preparing. USCartool connectors got perfect with amazing results though.
 
Dennis H said:
Protect yourself. My welder ended up in the emergency room with a nasty rash from asbestos(?)when preparing. USCartool connectors got perfect with amazing results though.
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Are you saying the undercoating contains asbestos? am spraying it with WD 40 to soften it up first
 
Garys72Duster said:
Are you saying the undercoating contains asbestos? am spraying it with WD 40 to soften it up first
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It is suspect. It seemed factory when it was cleaned downstairs in preparation for welding the connectors. It was hot weather, and the welder was not properly dressed. Ugly, but no known long term effects. 8-10 years ago. Wear proper clothes and mask.
 
Nice work. I like the crush sleeve. Where did you end up buying the MP connectors and the best way to make sure the car is level? My garage floor is 1957 vintage with some cracks here and there. Thanks,
Woody
 
I got them at Summit. I just set the 2 back stands at the same height, as well as the fronts. My floor is level. You don't want the L&R sides at different heights. I bolted the front portion on, then marked the back part where it meets the car frame. I raised the car with the rearend, loading the leaf springs so it would be like it was sitting on the tires. It didn't change position at all, so I drilled the holes for the rear bolts, and put the sleeves in, bolted it together. Even with just the first one on, I wiggle the rear of the car, and it is MUCH stiffer than before, and that's only the side to side motion.
 
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