Oil leak detection using smoke and mirrors

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dibbons

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Where did I see smoke being used to determine the exact location of an oil leak? I want to make sure I repair the correct problem before I re-install a 318 motor with a rear main seal or oil pan gasket leaking. It would be cool to see a wift of smoke coming out of the sneaky little hole, wherever it is hiding. I can see me now yelling in triumph, "Eureka you dirty little b_______!"
 
Get a big fat cigar and blow the smoke in the breather hole....

 
I think whoever sold you that story was using smoke and mirrors.............
 
Search online for cheap diy smoke machine to check for oil/ vac leaks. I think they cost $20 to make. Need a compressor with regulator.
 
Search online for cheap diy smoke machine to check for oil/ vac leaks. I think they cost $20 to make. Need a compressor with regulator.

But that won't be as funny as someone sucking/blowing on a piece of hose.... :lol:
 
There's also the "Phelps Method"....

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But that won't be as funny as someone sucking/blowing on a piece of hose.... :lol:
True.....very true......at least until they pass out from hyperventilating! Just don't waste a Cuban on it!!! :)
 
OK guys and gals, this is the final solution: I used invisible smoke! Standby:
a) I cut off the top two inches (male part where the cap screws on) of a plastic 600ml coke container
b) I attached the "cone" I made from the plastic coke bottle to the business end of a personal hair dryer with wide masking tape.
c) i was going to connect a hose from the "cone" end of the hair dryer to somewhere on the crankcase of the motor, but much to my surprise, the male end of the "cone" made a good tight seal when I shoved it in the grommet of the valve cover breather!
d) I prepared some soapy water, a small paint brush, to help me make bubbles in any suspected leak areas. I also brought over a length of clean fuel hose to help me "listen" for any leaks.
e) I set the dryer switch on the "cool" setting, wondering at the same time if their was going to be any chance of a crankcase explosion from latent gasoline fumes.
f) I turned the hair dryer on to it's highest fan setting.
g) I put one end of the fuel hose to my right ear and the other end to the dipstick tube (with the dipstick still inserted). I could definitely hear air escaping at that point.
10) I put the hose in the drivers side, rear corner of the oil pan and I could hear some background air noise. But then I put the hose in some other areas and heard the same background noise. i figured I was not hearing a leak, just noise from the hair dryer being turned on.
11) I put the hose in the passenger side, rear corner of the oil pan (where I noticed earlier the locating rubber tab/tit was not protruding through the appropriate hole in the oil pan flange like it should). Here I heard a rush of air 5 or 10 times louder than before.
12) I put my fingers in the same spot as #11, and the force of air blowing on my hand was phenomenal!
13) i did not soap up the area to look for bubbles, it seemed obvious that I had already found an open passage from the crankcase to the outside world.
14) I guess my plans to "borrow" (engine swap) the rebuilt 318 motor in my '65 Formula S to begin the road trip in my '72 Satellite Sebring Plus won't be necessary. I will have the mechanic (my nephew) do the oil pan gasket over again and leave the Formula S vehicle alone for now. And this time I have a proven way to show the work was done right (or wrong).
 
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Here are some follow up fotos to finish off this thread.
#1) close-up of coke bottle nose cone adapted hair dryer
#2) hair dryer/cone attached to valve cover grommet
#3) the leak was here between all the orange goop
#4 and #5) repair showing the rubber tab/tit holding the oil pan end gasket in place like it should

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Mexi-CAN(do) ! I saw one with a shop vac full old smoldering leaves and the hose on blow. He put it into the air cleaner and set the choke. He saw the smoke coming from a cracked EGR or vacuum line at the back of the motor as clear as day. suppose you could do the same with the valve cover baffle.
 
Here are some follow up fotos to finish off this thread.
#1) close-up of coke bottle nose cone adapted hair dryer
#2) hair dryer/cone attached to valve cover grommet
#3) the leak was here between all the orange goop
#4 and #5) repair showing the rubber tab/tit holding the oil pan end gasket in place like it should

View attachment 1715079301

View attachment 1715079302

View attachment 1715079303

View attachment 1715079304

View attachment 1715079306

Good job, you old hot-rodder.

I've had that rubber nipple break off, on install, not being careful enuff pulling thru with pliers.
I have had success using a small self tapping screw from the outside thru to the rubber seal, to hold it in place. There, I use some extra gorilla snot, to help hold in place. Not RTV

Hope it helps .
 
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Where did I see smoke being used to determine the exact location of an oil leak? I want to make sure I repair the correct problem before I re-install a 318 motor with a rear main seal or oil pan gasket leaking. It would be cool to see a wift of smoke coming out of the sneaky little hole, wherever it is hiding. I can see me now yelling in triumph, "Eureka you dirty little b_______!"


I used the fluorescing dye and the black light flashlight to find my mystery leak. Turned out to be hidden by the front flaps of the Magnum one piece oil pan gasket and the LA style oil pan notches in that area
 
I've found oil leaks by cleaning the engine, blowing it dry and sprinkling baby powder on the suspect area. Run it and look for a black spot. For Vaccuum leaks, turn on your Burnz-O-Matic torch but't don't light it. Then, slowly pass it over potential leak areas with the engine idling. RPM will come up when the leak is found.
 
For Vaccuum leaks, turn on your Burnz-O-Matic torch but't don't light it. Then, slowly pass it over potential leak areas with the engine idling. RPM will come up when the leak is found.

I just use windex the same way, except you'll hear RPM drop or stall
 
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