Doug's or TTI headers

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Surely you're not still using the single tube master cylinder. If so, upgrade to a dual m/c and reroute your lines and proportioning valve as necessary.
That's exactly what I'm in the process of doing but I don't have the headers yet so I was looking for some pics of 66durgederp's rerouted lines to clear the headers. And don't call me Shirley!
 
That's exactly what I'm in the process of doing but I don't have the headers yet so I was looking for some pics of 66durgederp's rerouted lines to clear the headers. And don't call me Shirley!
Hahaha! Okay, Shirl! :^)
I hope to have my car over the engine and drivetrain next week. I had already converted to a dual m/c and placed my proportioning valve in a convenient place with the stock exhaust manifolds and 904 tranny. But I'm converting to an 833 with Gearvendors overdrive so I know I'm going to have to move my proportioning valve further back along the frame rail. If no one else posts photos of their routing before I finish my task, I'll send you a photo of mine.
 
I know this is almost as year old but i'm finally getting around to my brake lines, Any pics of your
rerouted lines?

These are the only pics I have.

derp brakes.jpg


derp brakes 2.jpg
 
Thanks for the pics.
I was curious about the area btw the t-bar & frame, i think a pipe goes thru there. Here’s some shots of where I’m at

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This is how I routed mine prior to installing an 833 and Dougs Headers. Obviously I'm going to have to move my proportioning valve rearward on the frame rail. I have front disc brakes.
 
Speaking of Dougs Headers, anyone encounter this issue with Borgeson power steering box? I'm exchanging the Chrysler joint box for a u-joint.

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Ahhh yes, I ended up mounting my prop valve off the master cylinder studs/bolts. I used my line lock setup for my "T" for the front lines, and used a block union for my rear lines. the block union I mounted about 12" more towards the rear of the car on the frame rail to clear my TTI's. As for the steering coupler I used a stainless u-joint style coupler from sweet manufacturing. I got it from speedway motors about 7 years ago now, still works like a champ. For manual steering boxes If i remember right its 36 spline, and the sector shaft I machined it for 3/4" double D from the original 3/4" single D face, after cutting about an inch off. worked perfect.
 
Ahhh yes, I ended up mounting my prop valve off the master cylinder studs/bolts. I used my line lock setup for my "T" for the front lines, and used a block union for my rear lines. the block union I mounted about 12" more towards the rear of the car on the frame rail to clear my TTI's. As for the steering coupler I used a stainless u-joint style coupler from sweet manufacturing. I got it from speedway motors about 7 years ago now, still works like a champ. For manual steering boxes If i remember right its 36 spline, and the sector shaft I machined it for 3/4" double D from the original 3/4" single D face, after cutting about an inch off. worked perfect.

Thanks!
Bergman is sending me a u-joint, but I may have to cut some of my steering shaft off. My proportioning block doubles as a union block. I know I'll have to move it rearward, but waiting to install my engine/K frame/suspension to the car to determine the best location.
 
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Well thats interesting, I have the Borgeson box and the Bergman coupler and the D450 Dougs in my 66 and they fit fine, no contact with the headers at all. Been in there for 4 years. What engine mounts are you using?
 
Well thats interesting, I have the Borgeson box and the Bergman coupler and the D450 Dougs in my 66 and they fit fine, no contact with the headers at all. Been in there for 4 years. What engine mounts are you using?
I'm using Shumacher mounts on a 340 block.
Ding! Your post caused a bell to ring! It just occured to me...my engine/K frame and suspension are sitting on a home made cradle where the K frame isn't level. Of course that would affect the trajectory of the steering shaft out of the steering box and may have caused the clearance issue.
Thank you for your post and confirmation that it will work. Peter Bergman was surprised about the fitment issue also!
 
I'm using Shumacher mounts on a 340 block.
Ding! Your post caused a bell to ring! It just occured to me...my engine/K frame and suspension are sitting on a home made cradle where the K frame isn't level. Of course that would affect the trajectory of the steering shaft out of the steering box and may have caused the clearance issue.
Thank you for your post and confirmation that it will work. Peter Bergman was surprised about the fitment issue also!

No problem, glad I could help. I should add I use the stock mounts, right side modified to accept the 340 block. I have heard the Shumacher mounts position the engine a little bit different than the stock mounts but in what way I am not certain or if it would effect fitment of the box and coupler.
 
No problem, glad I could help. I should add I use the stock mounts, right side modified to accept the 340 block. I have heard the Shumacher mounts position the engine a little bit different than the stock mounts but in what way I am not certain or if it would effect fitment of the box and coupler.
When I jacked up the rear of the K frame and rebuilt my cradle, it was obvious the Bergman coupler would work.

Thanks, again!
 
What are you guys using from the headers back? Have a 64 Valiant with a 318/727, if I go with Doug's d450 and notch the trans mount would the jets or summit dual exhaust kit work decent?
 
I will say the TTI's are a bit harder to install over the dougs d450. On my 65 Cuda I'm running TTI's I had to mount my brake prop valve on the master with a bracket as there was no room to frame mount it. I used a Robbmc starter for more clearance and there is 2" of room from the header to the starter and it could be removed without loosening the header. I'm also using big block torsion bars and had to make a dimple in one tube as when the engine ran it moved around a bit and rubbed one header tube.

One nice thing about the TTI's is they seem to sit higher up and you have a bit more ground clearance over the dougs. Both sets of headers are a challenge to get to work with a 10.5 bell and you'll need to modify the bell crank and linkage to get it to clear.

I also went for the complete TTI exhaust system but I have my leaf springs moved in so I can run 275's on the back and had to cut up the back part of the exhaust to clear the springs.
 
TTI’s. Polished ceramic. Outdoors for over ten years, scrunched and scraped. Still working. Don’t buy direct. By from favorite vendor here or recommendation. Get your wallet.
 
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