Headers on a 340 Cylinder 7

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Slotted is fine if studs are out of the ends.
 
On my Hedmans.........which I won't be re-using........there were a couple of holes I went to the fasteners store and got some allen head cap screws.
 
Hey guys,
So I was able to loosen my headers and pull them back a bit. The two studs on each end of the heads are problematic as they essentially pin align the headers not allowing me to put the other two tight bolts in first. So removing the two studs is a must.
I assume that these two studs are used because it keeps the coolant form leaking out. So I also assume that the only way to pull the studs prior to mounting the headers. That being the case then I will only be able to replace the studs with bolts. I also assume I will have to drain the coolant.

What am I missing? Is this part of the pain for using long tube headers?

Thank you for your responses!
 
I would remove all of the studs and then use a good quality ARP header bolt. Just use some sealant on the the end bolts. Start with the bolt you are having trouble with and get it started, then start working on the next hardest. You just need a couple of threads to catch before moving on to the next bolt.
 
BrianT said:
I would remove all of the studs and then use a good quality ARP header bolt. Just use some sealant on the the end bolts. Start with the bolt you are having trouble with and get it started, then start working on the next hardest. You just need a couple of threads to catch before moving on to the next bolt.
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Thanks Brian, that is what I was thinking as well. I am going with stainless bolts all around.
 
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