Rear End Cleanup, Help?

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Woody'sScamp

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Hi, all. I need advice on cleaning up the rear end for painting. I've got the backing plates and cover
Rear End (7).jpg
soaking in evapo-rust and they are coming out great. Now the best way to do the rest? No heavy rust, just the usual. No blasting equipment, just hand tools, wire wheels, etc. Any suggestion would help. Thanks, Woody.
 
Knotted wire brush wire wheel in a 4-1/2 inch angle grinder to bare metal and rinse with acetone/toluene carb cleaner. Dry and immediately brush on permatex extend rust treatment or go all out with POR-15 rust proofer. I go from the center section first out to the spring pads first, first one side and then the other, and then work on the backing plates. Just whatever I can get clean without it rusting before I can get cleaned and coated with anti rust. Follow that with a rattle can of rustoleum semi flat black as a primer, and after allowing to dry, follow up with brushing on a coat of semi flat black rustoleum. Let paint cure overnight. It may seem like overkill but I've not had any rust afterwards, and the finish is very resistant to chipping as well.
 
Hi, all. I need advice on cleaning up the rear end for painting. I've got the backing plates and coverView attachment 1715281079 soaking in evapo-rust and they are coming out great. Now the best way to do the rest? No heavy rust, just the usual. No blasting equipment, just hand tools, wire wheels, etc. Any suggestion would help. Thanks, Woody.

Just a suggestion, remove that vent attached to the axle tube and run a vent hose up around the crossmemeber area that the shocks mount to like trucks normally have.
This will keep the rear from getting soaked all over the tube like it is now.
Just cut the current tube about an inch up and clamp the hose on it.
Then chisel or grind off that cover from the tube and smooth it down.
 
remove that vent

This will keep the rear from getting soaked all over the tube like it is now.

I don't see a vent, just a bolt head. It looks like that fluid was pushed out where the axle tube is pressed into the center.

It definitely needs a vent, lol.

EDIT: Or is the tube thingy (technical term) the vent?
 
I don't see a vent, just a bolt head. It looks like that fluid was pushed out where the axle tube is pressed into the center.

It definitely needs a vent, lol.

EDIT: Or is the tube thingy (technical term) the vent?
Yep, tube thingy is the actual vent!
 
I have had good luck with RustMort for prepping metal and getting rid of surface rust. It is a weak phosphoric acid solution that converts red rust to a stable black layer.
 
Hi, all. I need advice on cleaning up the rear end for painting. I've got the backing plates and coverView attachment 1715281079 soaking in evapo-rust and they are coming out great. Now the best way to do the rest? No heavy rust, just the usual. No blasting equipment, just hand tools, wire wheels, etc. Any suggestion would help. Thanks, Woody.


Here's mine.

Done by hand using pretty close to the same procedure as Garrett Ellison suggested. POR 15 is fantastic to use and leaves a great finish even when brushed on as I did.




DSCN4825.JPG
DSCN4826.JPG
 
Great job! Rustoleum on top of extend rust proofer gives a similar finish, and the more elbow grease and determination, the better. The blue $30 plus angle grinders from harbor freight are adequate, just take your time and don’t crowd the machine. If it heats up and trips, go ahead and clean and prime what you’ve done during the cool-off, plan on using the better part of a day. The cleaner it is before priming, the longer it will last.
 
Here's mine.

Done by hand using pretty close to the same procedure as Garrett Ellison suggested. POR 15 is fantastic to use and leaves a great finish even when brushed on as I did.




View attachment 1715281162 View attachment 1715281163
Thanks guys, looks like a little time will be required to get the results you guys got. No problem, it's a long winter up here. I've used POR 15 a few times so far. Did you do the backing plates with it also? What did use as a top coat over the POR 15? Thanks, Woody
 
I used the knotted wire wheels along with some twisted wire cups for my 4" grinder. I used some smaller versions of the same thing with a hand drill for some of the tighter places. A word of caution, fast moving grinding tools can shed their material pretty easy. I wound up investing in a good face shield after I stopped an escaping broken wire with my face. Hurt like hell.
 
Lots of work. As Rob said.
Last one i did was wire wheel/drill on the cast and a scotchbrite on my die grinder.
Diff cover i bead blasted.It got a couple coats of tremclad black.
E6B46E57-0596-46FB-A9BD-0D5AF9726CC2.jpeg
 
You could do has been suggested with a wire wheel, then spray the s**t out of it with oven cleaner, wrap asap in saran wrap and let it sit for a day.
Unwrap, scrub some more and rinse.
 
I am leavin mine dirty and rusty. Screw that. I'm too lazy. LMAO.
 
I am leavin mine dirty and rusty. Screw that. I'm too lazy. LMAO.
Yup. Who’s really gonna see it anyway,right?
Thats why i didnt get too picky with it. Degrease and paint.
 
I am leavin mine dirty and rusty. Screw that. I'm too lazy. LMAO.
Yeah this damned getting old with a dysfunctional back business takes a lot of the fun out of a lot of things. Where I used to work, we had a Quincy Q-40 with a drier and a small pressure blaster. A water tank painting crew left us a whole pallet of ground iron quartz blast media. It was rust colored, felt like baking soda, left steel buttery smooth. I can think of a lot of things I could use that for...
 
Yup. Who’s really gonna see it anyway,right?
Thats why i didnt get too picky with it. Degrease and paint.
I did that once and wound up with something in my eye I couldn’t get out when I put the brake lines back in under car. Next morning woke up with a paint chip the size of my thumbnail stuck to my cheek. Tears flushed it out in my sleep. Been doing it the hard way or not at all ever since...
 
Sorry, my childish ways took over..... When I read the title of this thread :D
:rofl:
 
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