Mechanical Auto meter temp gauge routing.

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Fisher

Old Guy with a Cool car.
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With a mechanical water temp gauge, does it matter where you route the cable to the front of the motor to the water pump? I ran mine in the cavity between intake and valley pan. Will that cause the cable to actually pick up heat and transfer it to the gauge and give a higher reading?
 
That's where I ran mine. It reads a little high compared to my infared temp gun, but I just assumed that occurred because I just the cheaper "Auto Gage" version.
 
A cheaper version from any company should still read true, which isn’t always the case. I have an Autometer electrical temp gauge reading 10* higher than what it is supposed to read.
 
With a mechanical water temp gauge, does it matter where you route the cable to the front of the motor to the water pump? I ran mine in the cavity between intake and valley pan. Will that cause the cable to actually pick up heat and transfer it to the gauge and give a higher reading?

A cheaper version from any company should still read true, which isn’t always the case. I have an Autometer electrical temp gauge reading 10* higher than what it is supposed to read.

I have a cheaper mechanical gauge running between the valve cover and intake and it reads right on the nose.
The bulb on the end is what picks up the reading, not the line.
 
I used the OEM wire. Changed out the sensor, disconnected inside the cabin and re-routed to to my aftermarket gauge.
 
Anyone aware of a mechanical temp gauge with a longer line?

I'd like to have mine in the center of the dash (without drilling a new hole), but all the ones I've seen limit me to under the driver's side (if passed through the existing blank grommet).

I have a suspicion that sbc temp senders are in the back of the block/intake and that's why we suffer from this.
 
With a mechanical water temp gauge, does it matter where you route the cable to the front of the motor to the water pump? I ran mine in the cavity between intake and valley pan. Will that cause the cable to actually pick up heat and transfer it to the gauge and give a higher reading?

The cable will not sense/pick up heat, only the sensor/probe at the end will...
 
Will that cause the cable to actually pick up heat and transfer it to the gauge and give a higher reading?

If it appears to or becomes an issue, maybe wrap it with insulation where it passes through?
 
Anyone aware of a mechanical temp gauge with a longer line? I'd like to have mine in the center of the dash (without drilling a new hole), but all the ones I've seen limit me to under the driver's side (if passed through the existing blank grommet).I have a suspicion that sbc temp senders are in the back of the block/intake and that's why we suffer from this.

Hello Yy1
Autometer offers up a Capillary tube that measures 12 feet long
Ultra Lite 2" Water Temp Gauge, 120 - 240 F, 12 ft | Pegasus Auto Racing Supplies
Hope this helps
Happy Mopar :)
Arron
 
They dont make them anymore, need some sort of adaptor ring? Will order the Milodon 16406 high flow stat.
 
I am going to go with a 180 F i have a huge rad and an 18" fan should be able to keep this motor at 185-190
 
keep away from any other heat block as heads its bad u have to use. if guage has wires u can run any where other than hot. some old temp use . temp as hot and cold . mercury solid small metal line . . best is to repair guage in dash.
 
I moved it to the top of the intake by the valve cover. Auto meter tech said its a gas in a tube and it could be affected by where i had it ran. Car is all back together, been -40 here for the last two weeks so have not had chance to run the car. will wait till it warms up some.
 
With a mechanical water temp gauge, does it matter where you route the cable to the front of the motor to the water pump? I ran mine in the cavity between intake and valley pan. Will that cause the cable to actually pick up heat and transfer it to the gauge and give a higher reading?
b cool a mech is and will be . sir its not electric. man means god and sun. and engine heat. only WAY.
 
Well, i got the duster running today, first start of the day. 70 above in the garage. Things i changed first. Installed a flowcooler waterpump, bottle of water wetter, a new high flow 180 T stat, and routed the temp cable to the top of the intake by the valve cover. Hood off as well. Started car, sat in car watched the gauge go to 185, see Tstat open and gauge go to 175. Watched this happen 3 times while running in the garage. This has never happened before. so what ever i did solved my cooling issues? I wasn't over heating, but the car did run around 195-200 all the time.
 
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