Rebuilt 318 install problem

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JoeSBP said:
did you verify TDC with a piston stop?
what distributor are you using?
What method did you use for setting it at 10°?
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TDC- I did not use a piston stop. I've used my finger and a compression gauge to be sure I'm on the compression stroke and then used a long screwdriver and a coat hangar to be sure I was at the top of the pistons travel.
Distributor- It is just a rebuild factory HEI
10 Degrees- I am using the timing tab and advancing the balancer mark by hand to the 10 degree mark and then lining up the rotor to the number 1 plug wire.
 
Calipag said:
It is a brand new distributor; not that means it's right but I feel it's something else. I've been thru the wires countless times to be sure of the order and they are correct.

It just does not make sense to me at all. I wish I had a second set of eye to look over the car in person to see what I'm missing! I'm at that point! I hate to throw in the towel but it's kicking my butt!
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Bad engine ground?
 
Calipag said:
TDC- I did not use a piston stop. I've used my finger and a compression gauge to be sure I'm on the compression stroke and then used a long screwdriver and a coat hangar to be sure I was at the top of the pistons travel.
Distributor- It is just a rebuild factory HEI
10 Degrees- I am using the timing tab and advancing the balancer mark by hand to the 10 degree mark and then lining up the rotor to the number 1 plug wire.
Click to expand...

You need to align the reluctor with the pick up
 
thesiren74 said:
If you didn't try another ignition you didn't try everything! Lol
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You are correct and actually made me laugh which I really needed at this time. But I don't think the ignition would have anything to do with me not seeing the timing mark on the balancer which leads me to believe it is still a timing issue. What do you think?
 
69FBCuda said:
Bad engine ground?
Click to expand...

I have a few grounds from the engine to the battery and from the battery to the ignition and from the battery to the frame and radiator support. I did a lot of reading on here and did what most have suggested as far as grounding the car. I will check that and see but I don't know how that would not allow me to see the timing mark on the balancer.
 
Calipag said:
TDC- I did not use a piston stop. I've used my finger and a compression gauge to be sure I'm on the compression stroke and then used a long screwdriver and a coat hangar to be sure I was at the top of the pistons travel.
Click to expand...
I would use an actual piston stop, and mark the balancer to ensure you are dead on TDC, and your balancer has not slipped.

Calipag said:
Distributor- It is just a rebuild factory HEI
Click to expand...
HEI, or electronic distributor? What year/vehicle was it ordered against?

Calipag said:
10 Degrees- I am using the timing tab and advancing the balancer mark by hand to the 10 degree mark and then lining up the rotor to the number 1 plug wire.
Click to expand...

I would start with timing it right at 0° TDC, and get it running, then dialing it in..
 
Calipag said:
TDC- I did not use a piston stop. I've used my finger and a compression gauge to be sure I'm on the compression stroke and then used a long screwdriver and a coat hangar to be sure I was at the top of the pistons travel.
Distributor- It is just a rebuild factory HEI
10 Degrees- I am using the timing tab and advancing the balancer mark by hand to the 10 degree mark and then lining up the rotor to the number 1 plug wire.
Click to expand...

Sure your going the correct direction, counter clockwise on the dist housing will get the advance. Set it to 0 and go from there.
 
Calipag said:
I have a few grounds from the engine to the battery and from the battery to the ignition and from the battery to the frame and radiator support. I did a lot of reading on here and did what most have suggested as far as grounding the car. I will check that and see but I don't know how that would not allow me to see the timing mark on the balancer.
Click to expand...

Should be an engine to firewall(pass side back of head) Mine does anyway.
 
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JoeSBP said:
I would use an actual piston stop, and mark the balancer to ensure you are dead on TDC, and your balancer has not slipped.


HEI, or electronic distributor? What year/vehicle was it ordered against?


I would start with timing it right at 0° TDC, and get it running, then dialing it in..
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The balancer is brand new.

It was ordered against a 1974 Dart with the 318. I am running that distributor with a GM module and Dodge truck coil as described on the forum.

I've tried starting at 0 also with negative results.
 
Calipag said:
I've made sure when setting up the distributor that the reluctor is in the with the pick up. Is that right? Is there another way of lining that up?
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The point of the reluctor wheel is lined up with the metal bar in the center of the pick up coil and the rotor should be close to # 1 on the cap.
I always set mine up to 10* on the balancer also and it's usually within 2* of perfect.
 
brian6pac said:
The point of the reluctor wheel is lined up with the metal bar in the center of the pick up coil and the rotor should be close to # 1 on the cap.
I always set mine up to 10* on the balancer also and it's usually within 2* of perfect.
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I have checked that and made sure they were lined up but I will check it again tonight.
 
Calipag said:
The balancer is brand new.
.
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Honestly that means nothing. Unless you verify that true piston TDC is being displayed as 0° on your particular balancer/cover, you are 100% guessing. If I was in your position, I would verify with a piston stop.
 
JoeSBP said:
Honestly that means nothing. Unless you verify that true piston TDC is being displayed as 0° on your particular balancer/cover, you are 100% guessing. If I was in your position, I would verify with a piston stop.
Click to expand...

When I line up TDC the timing mark lines up from the balancer to the tab. I understand that I'm not using a piston stop but it lines up which I think means the balancer is fine. I don't think it's a 100% guess. Most use the same practice for finding TDC for the #1 piston as I have and don't have a problem. I've done this same procedure and it has always worked ..... until now. Wouldn't I be at least the neighborhood even without the piston stop?
 
The video's not working for me. But did you go with and externally balanced Harmonic balancer or neutral/internally balanced unit?

Pat
 
Sometimes I just ignore the light, and reach in there and crank the D to whatever makes it run normal. Then figure who's lying to me.
Once it is idling normally:I hook up the light, and just rev it up slowly.
If it starts running stoopid and the timing light goes crazy,then; there is an excellent chance that the pick-up polarity is backwards.
But if it starts running stoopid without spark scatter, then the rotor or reluctor phasing is probably off. Or possibly the coil polarity is backwards.
But if it takes the revs OK, then probably the the timing index marks are off.
The above assumes the cam-timing is at least close and that ALL the valves are actually fully closing, and that the carb is not fubarred.
An easy check as to closing exhaust valves is to put your palm over the tailpipe during cranking; if it sucks your hand onto the pipe, you have a problem.
You can't really do that same test on a 4bbl, but if you are getting multiple backfires thru the carb with attending flames, there is a good chance the intakes are not closing. Lean missfires may be accompanied by flames, but sound like somebody fired a wet diaper on the concrete floor, or like somebody got punched in the diaphragm. Whereas when the already on fire fuel charge, pops back thru the carb, this is a more serious POW! Peak cylinder pressure is supposed to occur at about 15* ATDC, but the fire was begun at perhaps 10* before. So there is a 25* window there, that if one or more intakes is not closing 100% there will be fire in the plenum, and the pressure in the cylinder is gonna try and blast it backwards thru the venturi, totally destroying the vacuum signal, and with that the engine momentarily quits running. If just one valve is doing this, and the rpm is high enough, it might recover.If it stalls, there will be smoke in the intake and wafting up thru the carb. You can catch the pressure spike on a vacuum gauge.
No matter what, do NOT put your face over the venturis if the crank is turning; If/when you see the fireball coming, you will jerk back and inhale sharply. Your head will stop when it hits the underside of the hood, and you will suck that flame in baaaaaaad. And hopefully the stink of burning nose hairs,will be the only lasting ill effect. Well that and your wife is gonna laugh at you for two weeks until your eyebrows grow out. Not having nose hairs to deal with regularly tho,is not a bad thing.
 
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