/6 questions

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zigs

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Just throwing this out there but I need good advise. I bought a 1950 International L-150. 1 1/2 ton truck.I'm in the process of fixing it up. I want to replace the SD 220 six in it with a six I can get parts for. I'm thinking of the 225 /6 maybe. Sixes fit best to fit around steering box. I'd rather use Mopar then Ford or Chevy. Has anyone done anything with an old International. Let me know your thoughts.
Thanks
Zigs
 
while sl/6 is a viable option, I wonder if an AMC/Mopar (Jeep) 4.0L might be a better choice. More power, tons of them out there, and many of those were FI.
 
I'm by no means a Ford nut, but the 300 straight 6 is a great engine.
 
Yes I had thought about the Ford. This is not going to be a hot rod truck. I just want something dependable , has some torque and you can buy parts for.
IMG_20190106_105156932_HDR.jpg
 
Yes I had thought about the Ford. This is not going to be a hot rod truck. I just want something dependable , has some torque and you can buy parts for.View attachment 1715283505
That's exactly why I thought of the 300. In the 70's, 80's, and 90's I can't think of any other engine that regularly made it over 250k. They were built like tanks, and we're really smooth running torquey engines.

It really just killed me typing that paragraph.
 
That's exactly why I thought of the 300. In the 70's, 80's, and 90's I can't think of any other engine that regularly made it over 250k. They were built like tanks, and we're really smooth running torquey engines.

It really just killed me typing that paragraph.

LOL . I don't mind fords I had several.
I had a 92 F250 with a 5 speed 351 . Great little engine. Did the 300 come with a carb . Most I've seen have FI
 
Only downside to the ford is the 36.6" length vs the ~ 32" length of the slant. IF you have the room, the 300 is a great choice.
 
Only downside to the ford is the 36.6" length vs the ~ 32" length of the slant. IF you have the room, the 300 is a great choice.
You should see the SD 220. It looks like it belongs in a freight train. I would measure first. Biggest problem would probably be tranny to intermediate shaft.
 
LOL . I don't mind fords I had several.
I had a 92 F250 with a 5 speed 351 . Great little engine. Did the 300 come with a carb . Most I've seen have FI
Absolutely. The later injected ones were great too. You could use a carb engine and throw on a basic tbi system later if you want too.
 
Just throwing this out there but I need good advise. I bought a 1950 International L-150. 1 1/2 ton truck.I'm in the process of fixing it up. I want to replace the SD 220 six in it with a six I can get parts for. I'm thinking of the 225 /6 maybe. Sixes fit best to fit around steering box. I'd rather use Mopar then Ford or Chevy. Has anyone done anything with an old International. Let me know your thoughts.
Thanks
Zigs
Just by chance, my brother in law has a neighbor with a very cherry 1950 IH, this truck would be museum quality, if there was a museum for such things,,,

6CFE8561-92AE-444C-B57D-A19C58FF89E5.jpeg


1BEAEE60-F368-4A15-AB01-5D8D461FFF65.jpeg
 
I'll try and take a picture tomorrow and a measurement. It also has a nonsyncro 4 speed I want to change , so this all adds to the mix.
 
on a truck that big id be thinking 4bt cummins or 453 detroit diesels!! there is museums and shows for trucks, check out the AHTS.com or there FB page!
 
LOL . I don't mind fords I had several.
I had a 92 F250 with a 5 speed 351 . Great little engine. Did the 300 come with a carb . Most I've seen have FI

Heck yeah. They came carbureted for many more year then EFI.
 
Personally, I would go with surplus smaller sized 2 to 2-1/2 ton deuce and a half powertrain with multifuel continental or perkins diesel and a Clark or Rockwell 5 speed from an 80's f-600 to f-800 or the like. That international has so much extra framing and cradling for the engine under the front that it could easily stand it. I honestly believe you have the room for that. Grab the 6.78:1 axle from the deuce as well as it has a similar, if not the same, 6 x HUGE bolt pattern. My God Man, if your going to build at a truck (especially one of this magnitude), build a TRUCK, Lolol! (Sorry, we have a different mindset in this part of the country.) All joking aside, I found a 56 a while back that I thought about getting but it was too far gone. A relatively easy swap over is a mid 60's to mid 70's Ford FE and Borg Warner T- whatever it is four speed from a F-250 but preferably F-350 (Bigger clutch and some extra H.D. goodies) as it is one of the more common adaptations. The International has a B-W transmission and bellhousing that is dimensionally close, and if you get it from a wrecker you might even score some other things like Thompson steering set-up and hydraulic master/slave clutch actuation. In the end though, like everyone else says, this makes the 300-6 an even more attractive option. Plan on a newer Dana 70 or GM 14 bolt, save yourself some headaches with the split rings with eight lugs on the rear. Maybe even grab a solid front axle with eight lugs and brakes you can get parts for as well. If it’s more feasible to stay with 6-lug, there are some you can go with nato/military 6 lugs. Your only limits other than funding is your imagination, binder planet is where I found a lot of this out at myself.
 
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If you haven’t seen it yet, go to Rusty’s home page and check out his truck build. It is definitely worth checking out, I love the northwestern industrial styling direction he is taking with it.
 
If you haven’t seen it yet, go to Rusty’s home page and check out his truck build. It is definitely worth checking out, I love the northwestern industrial styling direction he is taking with it.

Don't know how far into this I'm going yet. I don't want to put a ton of money into it but you know how that goes. This is a 5 lug truck already looking at loosing the split rims and going with 19.5 tubless. I've been doing a lot of research on Binder Planet. I'm going to start pulling the body apart .It does have some rust issues from setting on the wet side of the state for 30 years. Its going to be a slow process trying to figure out what I want to do. If I can I would like to leave it mostly International, that's what it is. its not going to be a work truck and I don't have gobs of money to throw at it. So far everyone has had good ideas but like I said need to stay a little practical.
 
I know exactly where you’re coming from! The line between practicality and potential is far too blurry. That being said your plan is really good. I personally like the 300 and the borg Warner combo became it is the closest thing your going to get to a bolt in. Another engine transmission combo on the cheap is a Jeep 258 (probably the strongest runner in the list) with Jeep bellhousing with a ford B-W Transmission. Completely unbiased opinion. A well tuned 258 is the most powerful factory in-line six I have ever seen, by far. On par with a lot of small V8s of the same era. I imagine a 4.0 liter stroked with 258 crank and rods into a 4.7 with a few mods would run like a raped ape.
 
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What is the final drive gearing in that rear axle? I can’t remember that model of international axle (some of the later 50’s used a Dana 70, them and Dodge first application. A 225 super six wouldn’t be bad, plenty of them came with H.D. NP-435 behind them in two wheel drive trucks. The bell housing may be adaptable to your B-W transmission. Those old non synchro transmissions actually float shift really easily. The ones I’ve driven were not synchronized in 1st or 2nd but always floated the all forward gears. 67 c-30 SM-420 and 1960 f-350 with B-W T- series. Changed a clutch on the ford, it had a 1-7/16 by 10 spline input on a 13 inch clutch and a Rockwell rear that was somewhere in the low sixes.
 
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What is the final drive gearing in that rear axle? I can’t remember that model of international axle (some of the later 50’s used a Dana 70, them and Dodge first application. A 225 super six wouldn’t be bad, plenty of them came with H.D. NP-435 behind them in two wheel drive trucks. The bell housing may be adaptable to your B-W transmission. Those old non synchro transmissions actually float shift really easily. The ones I’ve driven were not synchronized in 1st or 2nd but always floated the all forward gears. 67 c-30 SM-420 and 1960 f-350 with B-W T- series. Changed a clutch on the ford, it had a 1-7/16 by 10 spline input on a 13 inch clutch and a Rockwell rear that was somewhere in the low sixes.

Specs say 4.88 to 1 or 5.571 to 1 or
6.116. to 1 I want the change over to be as simple as possible. Surprisingly I can still get a lot of parts through Rock Auto and there are several old Binder restoring sites I can pick up glass rubber and such. Lugs are rusted tight been working to get them off . All are left hand . Heat , rust lube and a 3/4 torque wrench, no budge, next is breaker bar with 5' long pipe.
 
Specs say 4.88 to 1 or 5.571 to 1 or
6.116. to 1 I want the change over to be as simple as possible. Surprisingly I can still get a lot of parts through Rock Auto and there are several old Binder restoring sites I can pick up glass rubber and such. Lugs are rusted tight been working to get them off . All are left hand . Heat , rust lube and a 3/4 torque wrench, no budge, next is breaker bar with 5' long pipe.
Did you mean a 3/4 inch impact wrench? If you have air, I would see about renting an inch drive to save your back. Your probably going to have to replace ever lug stud but you may be able to run a thread die down on them first, the right direction and then inverted, to cut all the way to the nut. This works really well on axle U bolts as well. After cleaning every stud like so, put some used synthetic motor oil on them. Get some, even if you have to change oil for a friend. I’ve used everything, it’s better than anything you can buy this side of ZEP 777 or triple Z. The heavier weight, the better, used diesel synthetic works the best of everything. Wear some nitrile gloves. It surprises me that they’re all left handed and 5 lug, usually left handed on the right side in that era or size. Are they 3/4-24 studs?
 
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Did you mean a 3/4 inch impact wrench? If you have air, I would see about renting an inch drive to save your back. Your probably going to have to replace ever lug stud but you may be able to run a thread die down on them first, the right direction and then inverted, to cut all the way to the nut. This works really well on axle U bolts as well. After cleaning every stud like so, put some used synthetic motor oil on them. Get some, even if you have to change oil for a friend. I’ve used everything, it’s better than anything you can buy this side of ZEP 777 or triple Z. The heavier weight, the better, used diesel synthetic works the best of everything. Wear some nitrile gloves. It surprises me that they’re all left handed and 5 lug, usually left handed on the right side in that era or size. Are they 3/4-24 studs?
Yes impact wrench. Not too worried about it at this point. Still cold out but they will come loose . I usually use anti seeze on threads and I always run a die across the threads no matter what it is, cleans everything up nice , same as I never sell a dirty part to someone.
Too bad your not closer I'd put you to work. Here's a picture of the beast
International Silver Diamond 220. I measure from back of block to center of fan blades 38" , the things about as tall as it is wide. Cant get a socket in to turn it will have to pull radiator but I did pour a mix of diesel and tranny fluid in the spark plug holes and it drained down so thats a good sign.
IMG_20190201_095416959.jpg
 
Yes impact wrench. Not too worried about it at this point. Still cold out but they will come loose . I usually use anti seeze on threads and I always run a die across the threads no matter what it is, cleans everything up nice , same as I never sell a dirty part to someone.
Too bad your not closer I'd put you to work. Here's a picture of the beast
International Silver Diamond 220. I measure from back of block to center of fan blades 38" , the things about as tall as it is wide. Cant get a socket in to turn it will have to pull radiator but I did pour a mix of diesel and tranny fluid in the spark plug holes and it drained down so thats a good sign.View attachment 1715283711
I ‘d like to get in on that, I probably should buy some of that inch drive Williams Proto Blackhawk mutt set up at the flea market that one of the used tool slingers keeps bringing up there just in case I get into something like this again. The real downfall of those early triple diamonds is the cast into the rod Babbitt rod bearings. They are rebuildable but you have to usually find a large industrial rebuilder to find someone that specializes in pouring and lapping Babbitt bearings. If the engine is locked, that’s almost always the cause.
 
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