How can i improve my oil pressure in my 360 magnum
Wherever a colored line meets a moving part, there will be an oil "leak". Your pressure gauge reads what is left over, after all the leaks are summed. This pic appears to be a SBC, but it don't matter much.
There is one cup-plug that is rarely mentioned and that is the one that is installed right near the rear main cap, that separates oil-flow to and from the filter. If it is not driven in all the way, I suppose it could restrict flow , and the upstream pressure would read low. In the second picture, the bottom left inset shows this area, but I can't see the plug. It should be in the little black smudge at the bottom of the pic. The cup hits a step in the passage that stops it,when it is installed correctly.
Sorry about the postage-stamp,at the bottom, I can't get rid of it
If you are gonna spend a lotta time at over 6000rpm,there are a few things you should do to your oiling system that are cheap insurance to help your engine live. I lost two engines before I figured it out. The mods are detailed in the tech-forum. Some of us on FABO after the mods, are good to at least 7000rpm
Extra oil capacity is also recommended. You can go deeper, the preferred way, or if a streeter, the Milodon roadrace pan has a trapezoidal shape that drops to just below the K-frame about an inch; use it with the matching larger diameter oil-pick-up. I think it is spec'd as a 7 quart. If you recalibrate your stick, you can run it at 6 or 7 quarts on the street, putting your oil well away from the crank. Install the stick BEFORE the pan goes on, to see where the calibrated end goes. I had to drill a hole in the windage tray to let it pass thru, instead of it going sideways and skidding along the tray. Some guys have experienced the stick getting caught up in the moving parts, and the end turned into a pretzel.
I highly recommend you fabricate a lil skid-plate for that pan, cuz welding/patching the pan in-situ, for me,was a temporary fix,lol.
Wherever a colored line meets a moving part, there will be an oil "leak". Your pressure gauge reads what is left over, after all the leaks are summed. This pic appears to be a SBC, but it don't matter much.
There is one cup-plug that is rarely mentioned and that is the one that is installed right near the rear main cap, that separates oil-flow to and from the filter. If it is not driven in all the way, I suppose it could restrict flow , and the upstream pressure would read low. In the second picture, the bottom left inset shows this area, but I can't see the plug. It should be in the little black smudge at the bottom of the pic. The cup hits a step in the passage that stops it,when it is installed correctly.
Sorry about the postage-stamp,at the bottom, I can't get rid of it
If you are gonna spend a lotta time at over 6000rpm,there are a few things you should do to your oiling system that are cheap insurance to help your engine live. I lost two engines before I figured it out. The mods are detailed in the tech-forum. Some of us on FABO after the mods, are good to at least 7000rpm
Extra oil capacity is also recommended. You can go deeper, the preferred way, or if a streeter, the Milodon roadrace pan has a trapezoidal shape that drops to just below the K-frame about an inch; use it with the matching larger diameter oil-pick-up. I think it is spec'd as a 7 quart. If you recalibrate your stick, you can run it at 6 or 7 quarts on the street, putting your oil well away from the crank. Install the stick BEFORE the pan goes on, to see where the calibrated end goes. I had to drill a hole in the windage tray to let it pass thru, instead of it going sideways and skidding along the tray. Some guys have experienced the stick getting caught up in the moving parts, and the end turned into a pretzel.
I highly recommend you fabricate a lil skid-plate for that pan, cuz welding/patching the pan in-situ, for me,was a temporary fix,lol.
