Gotta build ANOTHER engine.

gzig5 said
If I'm not mistaken, the stock spring on the Eddy heads would have been close or in coil bind.

The heads are good to .580 lift. Some people say you loose some lift due to pushrod angle in a small block. It "should" be good. The heads had a bunch of casting flash and such. Hughes cleaned them up, performed a better valve job, checked the guides, etc. They spec'd the cam and one cam bigger. I went with the smaller of the two.

JBurch said
To answer your question.........yes you should have degreed your cam, you also should have checked piston to valve clearance...........water under the bridge/spilled milk now at this point. You are not the first and you won't be the last........Degreeing the cam is not that hard, it's time consuming, but it is not THAT hard......beyond the degree wheel, you'll need a dial indicator, magnetic base, positive stop, something to bridge over a cylinder with a piston installed, feeler gauges, or a set of calipers for measuring deck height, piece of coat hanger bent up to be a pointer.

I type too poorly to tell you how it done, there has got to be lots of tutorials on how to degree a cam here on the web that will help you along.........in this matter, time and patients are your friends

Good luck!

I have a degree wheel kit from summit. I have the wheel, magnetic base dial caliper, lighter test valve springs, piston stop, etc. It's supposed to be everything needed to degree a cam. I just don't have the knowledge of how to do it. Should have figured it out or paid someone to do it. Lesson learned.