Houston we have a problem !! 340 issue

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SS Lancer

SS Lancer

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Recently obtained 66 Dart with a 1970 340 has corroded timing cover and leaking , car was from FL and almost zero antifreeze in block or radiator .
Well of course the bolt
@ corroded section in cover head broke off should I try to get it out or wait and try to remove timing cover then attempt removal any suggestions thanks Chris.

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Yikes! I’d be pulling heads and checking the block. That’s a lot of corrosion.
 
Spray all front area especially where timing cover meets engine block area with a good rust penetrating fluid. PB blaster or aerokroil come to mind. That timing cover may not be savable!! Looks too corroded.
 
My vote is remove cover and attempt to remove broken bolt after. Correct me if im wrong but doesnt thst bolt go into the watter jacket? Might make removal easier.
Good luck
 
1Badcolt said:
Recently obtained 66 Dart with a 1970 340 has corroded timing cover and leaking , car was from FL and almost zero antifreeze in block or radiator .
Well of course the bolt
@ corroded section in cover head broke off should I try to get it out or wait and try to remove timing cover then attempt removal any suggestions thanks Chris.

View attachment 1715285432

View attachment 1715285433
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Remove the timing cover. you will need a different one. Many of those bolts are long and screw into the coolant passages which might also be a problem. This doesn't look like it's going to be a fun repair.
 
Pull the cover. You have a lot of cleanup to do.
 
Pull the cover, soak with pb blaster for a bit, then heat the bolt with a propane torch and remove with vise grips.
 
QuickDart360 said:
Spray all front area especially where timing cover meets engine block area with a good rust penetrating fluid. PB blaster or aerokroil come to mind. That timing cover may not be savable!! Looks too corroded.
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Thank you I may have another 1970 cover if I dont what problems will I have running a later year cover ???
 
Car is nice and I guess this issue was what caused the car to be parked for many years , was told old fellow loved this car and he had some nice Original Chrysler stuff
Such as drivetrain from 70 Duster
340
727
8.75 ( 489 ) case Posi
And these odd to me exh manifolds **
Im not sure what these came off of but they are unique.

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Manifolds look stock, similar to my 273 manifolds and my 76 dart has similar.
 
Your going to have a fit getting that cover off. The TC erodes right there where it meets the block and allows water to leak where that broken bolt is. Do to the bolt be steel the cover aluminum and the fact it didn't have coolant in the block, this is the results. You may have to cut the TC where the bolt goes through it.
 
'70 and later have the timing marks on the drivers' side; '69 and earlier have them on the passenger side. This corresponded with the change in the water pumps, and the timing marks were moved to accomodate the pump inlet moving in the opposite direction, from driver's to passenger's side.
 
Remove balancer, cut timing cover off bolts with a wizzor wheel, hit the bolt a few times, straight into the block with a hammer, try to loosen with vise grips, don’t break it. If it won’t come loose use a oxygen acetylene torch and heat the block right around bolt till it comes loose.
 
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SGBARRACUDA said:
Your going to have a fit getting that cover off. The TC erodes right there where it meets the block and allows water to leak where that broken bolt is. Do to the bolt be steel the cover aluminum and the fact it didn't have coolant in the block, this is the results. You may have to cut the TC where the bolt goes through it.
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Ten 4 that makes sense dissimilar metals and corrosion dont mix
I know that from working in the Water industry oh well it is what it is
I will make sure it is flushed good and antifreeze installed because even though I want be using the engine it will be preserved I promise u that .
 
604B1duster said:
Remove balancer, cut timing cover off bolts with a wizzor wheel, hit the bolt a few times, straight into the block with a hammer, try to loosen with vise grips, don’t break it. If it won’t come loose use a oxygen acetylene torch and heat block right around bolt till it comes loose.
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Thank you Sir
 
nm9stheham said:
'70 and later have the timing marks on the drivers' side; '69 and earlier have them on the passenger side. This corresponded with the change in the water pumps, and the timing marks were moved to accomodate the pump inlet moving in the opposite direction, from driver's to passenger's side.
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Thank you Sir
 
What is it with the water industry and Mopars and Jeeps, lolol? I would try the cover first after getting the balancer off. Going to be a lot of soaking and frustration with the galvanic exchange on that one bolt. Probably going to have some more bolt heads do the same. If any break off, die grind or dremel the center of the bolt with a conical stone for a starting and CAREFULLY (as in dead straight on) drill it out with a 1/4 left hand drill bit. A good chance that if you go through the threaded end of the bolt dead center it will relax enough to break free once the drill bit snags the end. Preheating the part of the block with oxy-acetylene where it threads in and spraying the crap out of it around the threads will help a lot too. If drill doesn’t back them out, Rigid Tool makes a set of straight spline deep hole extractors. I recommend a set because if it breaks below the surface of the cover (like next to the threads) they come with drill guides that go in the bolt hole so you drill a pilot/extractor hole dead on center. One of the best things I ever got off a strap-on truck.
 
Garrett Ellison said:
What is it with the water industry and Mopars and Jeeps, lolol? I would try the cover first after getting the balancer off. Going to be a lot of soaking and frustration with the galvanic exchange on that one bolt. Probably going to have some more bolt heads do the same. If any break off, die grind or dremel the center of the bolt with a conical stone for a starting and CAREFULLY (as in dead straight on) drill it out with a 1/4 left hand drill bit. A good chance that if you go through the threaded end of the bolt dead center it will relax enough to break free once the drill bit snags the end. Preheating the part of the block with oxy-acetylene where it threads in and spraying the crap out of it around the threads will help a lot too. If drill doesn’t back them out, Rigid Tool makes a set of straight spline deep hole extractors. I recommend a set because if it breaks below the surface of the cover (like next to the threads) they come with drill guides that go in the bolt hole so you drill a pilot/extractor hole dead on center. One of the best things I ever got off a strap-on truck.
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Thank you - a few other bolts I thought were going to break removing them but they came out the worst one is the one in the picture and thats exactly where the leak was where cover eroded what a shame simple antifreeze would have prevented it most likely .
I have bought many tractors that the exh wasnt covered and the motors were either ruined or almost junk
A simple metal can could have saved the motors
I dont plan on using this 340 but I have to preserve it and store it properly.
 
kudos to 604B1duster: "If it won’t come loose use a oxygen acetylene torch and heat block right around bolt till it comes loose." Heat the block not the bolt - heat expands metal so you want to swell the block and make the bolt looser...
 
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