Tig weld vs J-B Weld...LOL

-

mopardude318

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 7, 2005
Messages
10,906
Reaction score
2,583
Location
Gilroy, Ca
So I can't weld aluminum...But I've actually had some real good luck with J-B Weld on various things like on my old tractor where I plugged the threads on the old pitted thermostat housing... lol

I think there's also aluma-weld by matercool and even Devcon.

Am I taking a risk about using this on my water pump, to essentially "glue" on my -AN fitting? lol

I think it might just work and be okay...or not?

IMG-4527.jpg


IMG-4528.jpg


IMG-4529.jpg
 
Take it to someone and get it welded on. Remember I recommended that when it falls off.
 
Hey I haven't done it yet there buddy!! :D LOL

I'll just pay my buddy the 50 bucks to weld it. no big deal. :)
 
Hey I haven't done it yet there buddy!! :D LOL

I'll just pay my buddy the 50 bucks to weld it. no big deal. :)


I would. I think you'll be much happier with the outcome. But then you'll need to do it all over when that pump goes bad. So in the meantime, learn to weld aluminum. lol
 
get a fitting with pipe thread on the end going into the pump and thread the pump that's what I did . or tig weld it no way would I use jb weld . jmo .
 
Can you tap the inside of the housing?
 
It's a non standard size. 1" npt is too small. 1-1/4 npt is too big. It's just one of those things where I need to know how to weld.
 
Can you tap the inside of the housing?


yes .

a 1'' npt needs a 1-5/32 hole and 1-1/4''npt needs a 1-1/2 hole . I ran a 1-5/32 drill into mine and taped the hole 1'' npt . when taping be careful remember it's tapered .
 
Last edited:
tig would be the best when I did mine I never had access or knew of anyone around here that had one so you do what you need to make it work .
 
I have a problem with Magnum water pumps poor "O" ring design.

The O ring is not really standard (flatted) and is held in by the just barely enough to seal force of the sheet metal tube held at one point of contact by a bolt on the other end.

Who TF designed that and called it good?

Next one I get I'll tap the casting and install a fitting as it should have been done on the original design.

Problem is, as with the OP, water pumps are kind of hit and miss quality these days, and tapping will surely void a warranty.
 
So I can't weld aluminum...But I've actually had some real good luck with J-B Weld on various things like on my old tractor where I plugged the threads on the old pitted thermostat housing... lol

I think there's also aluma-weld by matercool and even Devcon.

Am I taking a risk about using this on my water pump, to essentially "glue" on my -AN fitting? lol

I think it might just work and be okay...or not?

View attachment 1715285522

View attachment 1715285523

View attachment 1715285524

If you have a MIG machine there's a spool gun you can buy for welding aluminum. Or just pay a shop to TIG it on. I wouldn't risk JB failing with that kind of job.
 
You guys are right.

I was just thinking it over and had that crazy idea. Ya know it's not gonna get too hot, what maybe 235 degrees on the worst day, it's low pressure, maybe 15 lbs radiator cap dependent, and I won't be cranking on it with a wrench to tighten that fitting, they really only need to be snug, hand tight with maybe a smidge more with an aluminum wrench.

I thought there might be some kind of space age adhesive that would fit the bill.

I know J-B weld is far from space age though. LOL
 
You guys are right.

I was just thinking it over and had that crazy idea. Ya know it's not gonna get too hot, what maybe 235 degrees on the worst day, it's low pressure, maybe 15 lbs radiator cap dependent, and I won't be cranking on it with a wrench to tighten that fitting, they really only need to be snug, hand tight with maybe a smidge more with an aluminum wrench.

I thought there might be some kind of space age adhesive that would fit the bill.

I know J-B weld is far from space age though. LOL

Here's a crazy idea, drill through both pieces perpendicular while mated and ad a set screw or small bolt. That would take care of the "pressure" aspect, then apply a sealer like the JB weld to the contacting surfaces, what is that about 1/4" of contact area. Or just get it welded.
 
Here's a crazy idea, drill through both pieces perpendicular while mated and ad a set screw or small bolt. That would take care of the "pressure" aspect, then apply a sealer like the JB weld to the contacting surfaces, what is that about 1/4" of contact area. Or just get it welded.
I love it!
 
I have a problem with Magnum water pumps poor "O" ring design.

The O ring is not really standard (flatted) and is held in by the just barely enough to seal force of the sheet metal tube held at one point of contact by a bolt on the other end.

Who TF designed that and called it good?

Next one I get I'll tap the casting and install a fitting as it should have been done on the original design.

Problem is, as with the OP, water pumps are kind of hit and miss quality these days, and tapping will surely void a warranty.

You had trouble with the magnum leaking? So far I've owned "a few" and even though I'm up to three now on HEATER CORE FAILURES that tube hasn't leaked a drop LOL

1...Bought/ drove this 2wd Dakota for a short time. Of course the heater core was completely bad.

img_0859cs-jpg.jpg


2...The "White Whale III" It started "fogging" and "smelling." I don't drive it much, and it doesn't leak much. The solution for this fall and winter has been to yank the gasket off the pressure cap This is a '01 2500 2wd 5.9 Magnum

3...The junk Dakota I bought started smelling a "little" and just barely "fogging" a little. So.........I ripped the gasket off the pressure cap

Thing is, I may get rid of both of them in the near future, so I don't want to put that time and money into 'em. Plus, "It's a hell of a job" on either of them. Remove the seats, drop the column, remove the ENTIRE dash, and THEN pull the heater. The Dakota has AC so that's an additional annoyance. The girdle fittings in where the suction accumulator mounts is VERY tight and VERY hard on these old fingers.........
 
Last edited:
My heater core lasted until over 150,000 miles.

But I'm on my third radiator and about 6th water pump.

...and for the life of me, I can't get the rust out of the coolant.

other than that, super, SUPER truck.
 
Man I have to do the heater core on my 2002 Dodge ram 2500. Just like the Dakota I have to drop the column and pull the dash. I'll do it in the spring
 
Not sure how tight the fit is between the aluminum parts, but many things are now glued together. The new all aluminum F-150 is pretty much held together with glue. I think 3m makes a specialty adhesive (I think it's pretty expensive). So there may very well be an adhesive out there, not sure the cost and not sure how much gap there is between those two parts and if the adhesive would work, but I wouldn't laugh it off. I can see more and more companies using adhesives rather than welding/bolting stuff together to save labor.
 
Not sure how tight the fit is between the aluminum parts, but many things are now glued together. The new all aluminum F-150 is pretty much held together with glue. I think 3m makes a specialty adhesive (I think it's pretty expensive). So there may very well be an adhesive out there, not sure the cost and not sure how much gap there is between those two parts and if the adhesive would work, but I wouldn't laugh it off. I can see more and more companies using adhesives rather than welding/bolting stuff together to save labor.

I was wondering about a "buddy" charging u $50 for that ! $20 would be more like it if he`s a buddy !!
 
I was wondering about a "buddy" charging u $50 for that ! $20 would be more like it if he`s a buddy !!
That's what I was thinking. I was a little shocked when he told me 50 bucks. He is a professional welder though and that is what he does for a living. I was expecting him to say $20. I do understand that tig welding aluminum is a special skill, I have to appreciate the thousands hours of experience he has...

Next time he needs a tow truck service he won't get no breaks from me. LOL...
 
That's what I was thinking. I was a little shocked when he told me 50 bucks. He is a professional welder though and that is what he does for a living. I was expecting him to say $20. I do understand that tig welding aluminum is a special skill, I have to appreciate the thousands hours of experience he has...

Next time he needs a tow truck service he won't get no breaks from me. LOL...

I have made a friend thru another friend that is a prof. welder, has his own shop, he has never charged me over $20 for anything, I have used him quite a bit. H`es a racer too!
 
That's kind of where I got my glue idea from. Probably 9 or 10 thou clearance between the parts.

I didn't have a lathe so I chucked that piece up on my drill press and I made that little step down with a hand file. LOL
Not sure how tight the fit is between the aluminum parts, but many things are now glued together. The new all aluminum F-150 is pretty much held together with glue. I think 3m makes a specialty adhesive (I think it's pretty expensive). So there may very well be an adhesive out there, not sure the cost and not sure how much gap there is between those two parts and if the adhesive would work, but I wouldn't laugh it off. I can see more and more companies using adhesives rather than welding/bolting stuff together to save labor.
 
Im with 69. Just fit the fitting in, drill a few small through holes and tap some solid pins in. Apply favorite sealer and you'll be set. wanna remove the fitting? Tap the pins out and pull it off. Thats some sunday night engineering but I don't have a TIG welder (yet) either. 16psi is nothing for a few steel pins.
 
-
Back
Top