Help...No Power

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R4Sedan

R4Sedan

Larry
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Location
Weeki Wachee, Fl
Could use a little advise. I got this '74 Duster from a family member that needed money.
Its got slant six electronic ignition. I towed it back to my house. He had put new battery and various other new parts on the car. Anyhow, Battery has a full charge I put my gauge on it.
But has no power anywhere no headlights interior lights etc.... Checked the fusible link appears good. I know it has to be a bad ground or something loose? Reason why I think loose wire or bad ground is because when I go to crank the car it gives off (usually) one click and that's it. Then dead. Any ideas. Ill add a couple pictures of fusible link and bulk head.
Thanks, Larry.

duster.jpg


duster1.jpg
 
I know it sounds ridiculous, but the last two times I have seen this, the battery connections themselves were loose. Only put on by hand and the connection just wasn't good enough.
 
Headlights "only" power is unfused from the ammeter circuit. Not through the fuse box. So this limits the problem area

Bad battery connection/ cable.
Bad fuse link
Poor connection in the bulkhead connector pin(s)
Poor connection at the ammeter studs on the instrument cluster

Turn headlights "on" to provide a load

Put your meter/ test lamp DIRECTLY on the top of the battery NEG post. Not the clamp. The battery POST

Stick the other lead on a bare part of the engine, carb, etc, GROUND Should NOT get a light or read any voltage. If you do....trouble in the ground cable.

If that is OK do the same at positive..........stick probe into battery POS post, and other end of light/ meter on starter relay "big" post. If you get a reading or a light, trouble in that cable.

If this is OK find where the big fuse link wire goes into the bulkhead connector. Probe that meter on engine ground, you should have voltage. "Wiggle test" the connector, try do disconnect it (there are latches) and see if you get a glimmer out of the lights

Go inside, reach up under, wiggle the wiring harness up towards the light switch. If you can get your hand up near the ammeter wiggle that, feel for heat
 
gdrill said:
I know it sounds ridiculous, but the last two times I have seen this, the battery connections themselves were loose. Only put on by hand and the connection just wasn't good enough.
Click to expand...

Don't go by what they "look like", either. You can learn to quickly make tests with a test light/ meter and KNOW. CLEAN the terminals and clamp. Get a good battery post cleaner tool
 
gdrill said:
I know it sounds ridiculous, but the last two times I have seen this, the battery connections themselves were loose. Only put on by hand and the connection just wasn't good enough.
Click to expand...
Thanks, George.
Yeah they are on tight. But the negative cable has seen better days. And when I take my test light I don't get a signal between positive and relay.
 
67Dart273 said:
Headlights "only" power is unfused from the ammeter circuit. Not through the fuse box. So this limits the problem area

Bad battery connection/ cable.
Bad fuse link
Poor connection in the bulkhead connector pin(s)
Poor connection at the ammeter studs on the instrument cluster

Turn headlights "on" to provide a load

Put your meter/ test lamp DIRECTLY on the top of the battery NEG post. Not the clamp. The battery POST

Stick the other lead on a bare part of the engine, carb, etc, GROUND Should NOT get a light or read any voltage. If you do....trouble in the ground cable.

If that is OK do the same at positive..........stick probe into battery POS post, and other end of light/ meter on starter relay "big" post. If you get a reading or a light, trouble in that cable.

If this is OK find where the big fuse link wire goes into the bulkhead connector. Probe that meter on engine ground, you should have voltage. "Wiggle test" the connector, try do disconnect it (there are latches) and see if you get a glimmer out of the lights

Go inside, reach up under, wiggle the wiring harness up towards the light switch. If you can get your hand up near the ammeter wiggle that, feel for heat
Click to expand...
Thanks, Del
I always try to follow your tech threads. Your very helpful. I will give all this a try.
Larry
 
Ok test says bad positive battery cable. Plus when I took it off put back on I had head lights. I'll go get a new one tomorrow and let you know how I made out. Thanks guys.
 
gdrill said:
I know it sounds ridiculous, but the last two times I have seen this, the battery connections themselves were loose. Only put on by hand and the connection just wasn't good enough.
Click to expand...

That's the first thing I always check when one click and dead. More often than not that's it. But, when it gets like that, usually the terminal ends are so crudded up they require extensive cleaning or replacement.
 
Ok just to let you know what's happening. I made new pos and neg battery cables. It fixed the problem where I know have power. Have head lights, tail lights, etc... Still no crank. So I probed my test light at fusible link and have power. Went and looked around saw broken wire on coil. Ran my alligator clips to big stud on relay. I have power. First crank beautiful sound.....So I had a couple problems going on. Thanks to all that listened. Especially Del. I love your Theory diagnose the problem. Don't just throw parts at it. I try to always read your threads on electrical, because I know these cars have their issues. Especially after 50 years. Here's a couple pics.
Thanks Larry
 
Glad you are making progress. Hell I still don't have the engine set back into my 67. I was targeting last summer to get it at least "moveable" several things happened
1....We had heat LOL, and I don't do well
2....We had an EXTREMELY smokey fire season, and this is the first year ever that I actually suffered eye and nasal irritation. There was a period I did nothing outdoors
3....We thought the estate was sold and I wasted a lot of time going up there and moving stuff out of the property
 
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