What kind of oil filter do you guys use?

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No fram on my shelf. One main thing with all of you fram users,always check filter and base to make sure o-ring came off with filter. Only filter ever that tends to leave the o-ring behind. Laying under a car in a dark garage and drop filter into drain tub and spin on a new one, end up with a double seal and one blows out. Witnessed it.
Have seen many stuck o rings,every single one was fram.

Used to save them as a reminder,filled a 6” pegboard hook.

Spin off a filter, let it drain.
Wix of a compareable size will be heavier than the fram.

I agree all filters sold in north america are required to meet or exceed original manufacturers specifications.
Oil filter failures-mostly due to lack of maintenance. Have seen filters leak from rusting through,57,000 km’s between oil changes and everything in between. Speedy lubes rarely replace the cartridge type filters, 3 times the price on a flat rate oil change eats into profit.
Explains collapsed filters i find when servicing a car that was previously at a quick-lube.

Done thousands of oil changes in my career,now down to about 100-150 a year.
 
Good lord this question AGAIN !!!! Walmart sales mopar filters for less - black with the mopar M . I think my uncle said they're made by Purolator. I use it on my new stroker motor for drag racing, no problem.
Still going strong $6.37 at Walmart. Make the parts store price match...p# 090..
 
Napas best line 'platinum', Bosch, mopar.


Though it really won't matter if you dont change your oil regularly
 
I recently discovered Baldwin brand filters. This brand is not sold down here in San Antonio, Texas. I ordered mine on line. Also have used Wix.
 
M1 - 301... Change my oil once a year... Because I can... No biggy but, I like the heavy case on the M1 filter... Works well with my cooling fins !!!
(I have Fun with my little 'cuda)

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As mentioned earlier I have one of those $150 dollar K&P Engineering filters. Used it a few times so far, comes apart and cleans easy. I switch back and forth between that and a wix/napa gold for no particular reason. Buy and use what you like.
 
As mentioned earlier I have one of those $150 dollar K&P Engineering filters. Used it a few times so far, comes apart and cleans easy. I switch back and forth between that and a wix/napa gold for no particular reason. Buy and use what you like.
I have a K&P as well. It's like engine jewelry!
 
Mopar L-128. I still use the old canister oil cleaner! It has a huge standoff pipe in there. Oil stays in there for weeks.
Purolater, Fram-Mopar...all the same....cardboard seat for the anti-drainback valve. Notice the Fram design has the cardboard end plate, cheap-azz!
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overview

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check out this site, great stuff. Oil Filters Revealed - MiniMopar Resources
I was fixen to buy another K&N but now might get a Bladwin
 
Anybody use Hastings filters? Back in the day, we would buy a case from my uncle who was a mechanic.
 
2ND That i sold them for 20 years and still buy them today, hard to find where i live .Walmart has them again and Canadian tire has the common only .

From the Horses mouth,
"...
Russell, (web site guy)
I obtained great satisfaction from reading your oil filter survey.

I worked for two years as the oil-filter production line engineer in
an Allied-Signal FRAM facility and I can confirm every bad thing you
have said about FRAM automotive filters. That's from the horse's
mouth, as it were.

I'm also a quality engineer and can confirm that FRAM applies no
quality control whatsoever to any of the characteristics for which we
buy oil filters. I frequently saw filter designs which were barely
capable of meeting J806. Many of FRAM's designs will block and go to
bypass after trying to filter very little contamination. There were
often leakage paths at the paper end discs when these were not
properly centered on the elements. Some designs had the pleats so
tightly packed against the center tube that they would block off in no
time. I had discovered that the FRAM HP1 that I had been buying for
about $20 Cdn was EXACTLY the same as a PH8 inside - the only
difference being a heavier can - no advantages in flow capacity. The
paper filtration media was of apparently poor quality and the process
of curing the paper resin was very inconsistent - elements would range
from visibly burnt to white. FRAM's marketers admitted that there was
just about no way the public could ever prove that an oil filter
contributed, or did not prevent, engine damage. The only thing FRAM
tested for was can burst strength. Another problem that they have from
time to time is in threading the filter base - often there are strands
of metal left behind on a poorly formed thread.

I have not used a FRAM filter since I started working there. Their
claims are entirely and completely marketing bullshit.

If people really want to protect their engines, a good air filter is
vital (which excludes FRAM from that list as well) and a combination
of one depth and one full-flow hydraulic filter, together in parallel,
will do the job of filtration to perfection.

Thanks for doing a great job in trying to get the truth out! You can
quote me anytime.

[name omitted to protect submitter]..."

There you go, an email from a guy who worked there. Your mileage may vary....

HP1 Filters - Oil Filters Revealed - MiniMopar Resources
 
No fram on my shelf. One main thing with all of you fram users,always check filter and base to make sure o-ring came off with filter. Only filter ever that tends to leave the o-ring behind. Laying under a car in a dark garage and drop filter into drain tub and spin on a new one, end up with a double seal and one blows out. Witnessed it.
Have seen many stuck o rings,every single one was fram.

Used to save them as a reminder,filled a 6” pegboard hook.

Spin off a filter, let it drain.
Wix of a compareable size will be heavier than the fram.

I agree all filters sold in north america are required to meet or exceed original manufacturers specifications.
Oil filter failures-mostly due to lack of maintenance. Have seen filters leak from rusting through,57,000 km’s between oil changes and everything in between. Speedy lubes rarely replace the cartridge type filters, 3 times the price on a flat rate oil change eats into profit.
Explains collapsed filters i find when servicing a car that was previously at a quick-lube.

Done thousands of oil changes in my career,now down to about 100-150 a year.

I was taught to wipe the filter landing area with a clean rag, back when. Cant miss it that way !
 
Anybody use Hastings filters? Back in the day, we would buy a case from my uncle who was a mechanic.

I'm sure Hastings filters are fine now. They were bought out in the nineties, and are part of the conglomerate that owns Purolator and Baldwin, among others.

I think I've posted this before, but if you find any old Hastings oil filters that are labeled "Depth -Type" or "Densite," throw them in the nearest trash can. They are packed with a cotton-like filtration media, through which oil, being a liquid, takes the path of least resistance, shortly leaving one with nearly unfiltered oil. Even the cheapest folded paper filter is far superior.

Hastings Densite.jpg


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Still going strong $6.37 at Walmart. Make the parts store price match...p# 090..
I always use that exact Mopar # 090 filter on my 5.9 '02 Ram and was wondering if I could use it on my 340.
 
I always use that exact Mopar # 090 filter on my 5.9 '02 Ram and was wondering if I could use it on my 340.
I use it on my duster with a stroker motor. I use it on my 98 Dodge truck 5.9. I use it on my wife's 98 Durango 5.2. I use it on my 73 Dodge D100 with a 318. I used it on my son's 76 power wagon with a 360....
 
I always use that exact Mopar # 090 filter on my 5.9 '02 Ram and was wondering if I could use it on my 340.

I use it on my duster with a stroker motor. I use it on my 98 Dodge truck 5.9. I use it on my wife's 98 Durango 5.2. I use it on my 73 Dodge D100 with a 318. I used it on my son's 76 power wagon with a 360....
I've been running nothing but Mopar 090 on all my mopars. Never an issue
 
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