Kickdown Linkage Adjusting...???

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70DusterBob

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I need to know how to tell when the shift linkage is in the proper location. I put an airgap on my 360 and it raised it about 3/4-1". I got it to shift into third when it is supposed to in drive, shifts into second no prob in drive. Is that all I need to do or is it a specific adjustment that needs to be made?
 
We need more information, what carb are you using, are you using a linkage adapter if it is a holley type carburetor. Send us a picture of your set up. The linkage is supposed to be all the way forward with no slack and all the way back at WOT with no slack. You may want to check out Bouchillion performance, their cable kickdown setup based on the magnum ram and van set up and takes a lot of aggravation out of the equation.
 
No linkage adapter, that is why I was wondering. I had to flip the lever to the other side of it's bracket to clear the Holley Throttle Bracket. It is kind of Mickey Mouse. I'm not driving it right now, just got it put together and want to get the linkage straight before I put any miles on it. I will look at Bouchillion Performance and post some pictures in a day or two, the Duster is 25 miles from here, so I can't just go out to the garage and shoot a couple for you. Please hang on a couple days.

It does have a 4150 750CFM carb on it. I have a custom throttle rod to make everything work, but it just got me from the shop to my other house, the one that is 25 miles away...

I don't really understand what you mean by the lever is supposed to be all the way forward at idle? And all the way back at WOT. Right now I put a nut and bolt to cause the throttle to push the lever back and it has a throttle return spring to keep it forward. It shifts right, but I don't think that is the thing to go by. It probably has a proper place to be.
 
Whatever you do; do not clamp the accelerator cable anywhere besides on the metal ferrule provided! To do so is to invite a WOT failure, as the cable inside could stick. The throttle has to snap closed and HD return springs are not the answer. There is a company that makes an adjustable 4bbl bracket that fits just about any combo. I have one of those but I forget the manufacturer's name. It wasn't Bouchillon. Here's one type. There are others. See below for the factory 4bbl type, which probably won't work with an AirGap. Most of us modify that one to work, but if yur gonna cut and splice, you might as well do it to a 2bbl bracket.
Try to get the return springs and the accelerator cable/KD mech in as straight a line as you can, and in opposite directions, so you don't wear out the soft aluminum base plate over time. To use the factory bracket, after you have relocated the cable anchor, you just need to stretch the link-rod a a couple of inches and raise the front height to restore the working angles. A couple of hours for a newbe with a vise and a welder, a hacksaw, and a grinder; and yur done. I can't believe that after all these years somebody hasn't tooled up for this.
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This one?

BPE TorqueFlite Kickdown Cable Kit - Bouchillon Performance Engineering

Mine has a lever/rod that rides on the throttle rod, the rod that the accelerator cable pulls on, and that is what actuates it. This doesn't look anything like mine. Is this the right kit?

Thanks
That is it, and the slotted rod is supposed to ride on a smooth stud, the hole in the bell crank at the back of the manifold has a spring that goes in it and hooks over a groove in the stud. Any change in height of the factory set up changes the geometry of everything, the cable kit gets rid of all the fiddling with the 57 varieties of different factory linkages that may or may not work.
 
I imagine your throttle linkage probably has a kink and awkward operating angle too, the Bouchillion kit helps to correct this as well.
 
That is it, and the slotted rod is supposed to ride on a smooth stud, the hole in the bell crank at the back of the manifold has a spring that goes in it and hooks over a groove in the stud. Any change in height of the factory set up changes the geometry of everything, the cable kit gets rid of all the fiddling with the 57 varieties of different factory linkages that may or may not work.

I see. The instructions explain it all, how to hook it up? I guess I'm sold. I spent a chunk of change on this tranny, don't want an early failure!!
 
Refer to Carl Munroe's 727Handbook , chapter 3, Pages 64-66 . Depends what type of KD linkage you have .
 
I understand there are cheaper ways to do a junkyard swap over, and some say the kit is overpriced, but i feel being a able to do it right the first time and preventing transmission damage makes it worth the expense.
 
I understand there are cheaper ways to do a junkyard swap over, and some say the kit is overpriced, but i feel being a able to do it right the first time and preventing transmission damage makes it worth the expense.

Compared to what I paid for the Trans, it is well worth $150.

I'm leaving to go to the other house now. No internet. I'll reply to any other responses tomorrow.

Thanks
 
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