pishta
I know I'm right....
Oldmanmopar, who's valve covers are those?
Duane, the reason the duel idler gear set makes noise is because it's going to look like this in a few more minutes. Good thing you can't find a set for a Mopar!Yes I was told that the single idler type do not make any noise.
Now those dual idler type make lots of noise lol.
Oldmanmopar, who's valve covers are those?
They fit any small block head.Yeah, I'm familiar with the "wide bodies" so that sure is a good fin delete! I didnt know they were W2 specific. Good stuff.
All very true. My local machinist who did the line hone on my blockYes... as someone famously said on this site "No cares as much about your [stuff] as you do." And I'll add: "It's less complicated when you screw up yourself".
The milodon thrust plate is way thicker than stock because it has to accommodate the idler bearing and gear.Duane, you got me on the oil pump drag direction! My high school engineering degree failed me when I took a second look at the cut and direction of the teeth: drive side against a resitance (oil pump) will force cam forward. Now the way the cam is retained onto the thrust plate still does not negate a torrington bearing in any manner. The cam cannot go forward due to thrust plate. The cam cannot go backwards due to cam gear on opposite side of thrust plate (thickness .1xx) with the camshafts relief step setting the initial clearance (.1xx +y) so you have a Delta of y which I'm understanding is the thrust tolerance? The Milodon uses a machined thrust plate dimension and with the addition of the torrington bearing, may not use the stock cam step to set thrust tolerance (?). It has to use a positive pressure on the torrington bearing creating no thrust variance. The cam has no forward/backward movement from any force that will relieve pressure on the torrington bearing. Interestingly, the Milodon 13600 instructions do not have a cam bolt torque. Is the Milodon machined thrust thickness the same as the Mopar stock piece? Damn, its on the block and I cant measure it! You would think they would have shims available to adjust this spec.
Trying to think how the torrington bearing would chew anything with its 2 hardened races on each side of the rollers unless someone forgot the races?
<<EDIT>> the torrington roller bearing cage has a slight cup to it, maybe that is the only positive force on it if it uses the OEM thrust spec?
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Really not sure how to respond to this post. I have had Ryan do work for me. Seems to do very nice work.The first motor He decked my block to 890 without telling me. My diamond pistons were not there. because he couldn't use my rods due to the pin being to big to keep it under the cut deck.To use the SB CHevy rods he had Offset grind another crank. Where did My 4 " Callies go or my Carrillo Bullet rods The intake was only about 1/8 inch thick. from him cutting it.
The worst was he charged me $450 to CNC fly cut the pistons. This is where he became liable. The motor came apart on startup after some dyno pulls. Come to find out the valves were hitting the pistons.
I drove out to Port Matilda. Pa. He was not there . But his brother was. There was a sprint motor there that came apart the same way and destroyed the car. Talking to his brother led to to fly cut method they used.
He stated this in front of two machinist I took with me.
They had a long stem file cutter they ran though my Guides and cut the pistons in the motor using my heads as their tool. They cracked most of the guide out of the heads. I asked his brother how this could work because the piston would rock. He said They do it after assembly. I could not believe my ears. I didn't know if I should laugh or cry.
I took the parts he got me. New crank , Rods, pistons. T&D Rockers that were terrible. Indy heads in which the quality was Real bad. They must have been returns. Here is a picture of the first X-block batten headed motor in the car. It was a 428 Made 593@7200
I sold the X-Block I got from them. Ray Barton gave me the resto block in with a deal for a couple 68 Darts and Barracdas over a Pizza. Then I started over. I Could have bought a Hemi for the total cost of a small block build.
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Really not sure how to respond to this post. I have had Ryan do work for me. Seems to do very nice work.
Not to pick sides but this sounds like one of those stories where Ryan would have a different answer as to what went wrong.
Sounds to me like there were communication issues as to what the build plan was and there were mismatched parts that could not be used together.
Mopar performance reverse flange with the fins milled off. They did not fit with baffles over T&D rockers On the Indy heads I bought a fabricated set with no holes . Had my son weld 1/4 inch flanges on them that Bruce lazor cut. The thin flanges are not strong enough. You can see things are tight. I had to fit the push rods to the new flanges. Not much flange left. The way they were they did not seal.Oldmanmopar, who's valve covers are those?
My apologies guys for that, but it was not me that came on hereBoy, you guys sure know how to take a thread into the boondocks. Just sayin'
Lol wow that's a nasty failure.Duane, the reason the duel idler gear set makes noise is because it's going to look like this in a few more minutes. Good thing you can't find a set for a Mopar!View attachment 1715290660
The Mopar one I have here measures .155 thou thick.Just curious: Did anyone ever measure the thickness of the tensioner plate?
Mopar tensioner plate.So that .155" is for a Mopar tensioner plate, or an LA thrust plate?
Wait a minute, just for my knowledge, how thick is the la plate lol, I don't have one of those to measure.Good; I really appreciate the effort and knowledge!