1969 Barracuda 340 Formula S Restoration

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Pulled all the seat belts and sent them off to Bill Edwards at allmoparseatbelts.com to be restored.
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Back to this current restoration project
The Barracuda was sold new by Raynal Plymouth in Detroit MI and later traded by the original owner at a used car lot in Holland MI.

The 2nd owner purchased it from the used car lot in 1975. He spun the #1 rod bearing in the 340 and it was parked. There was some kind of "domestic dispute" with his wife and she took out her revenge on his Cuda by smashing in the side and front of the Cuda!!! She must have been really ticked off!!!!

The 3rd owner - Norm VerHage - bought the car in the summer of 1978 for $25.00!!!!! He repaired the damage and did a full restoration on the car in 1978-1979. Norm won several awards and also drag raced it several times.

As the 4th owner, I bought the car from Norm in July 1988 for $9,375.00 USD and imported it into Ontario.

These are the "revenge" photos
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These are some recent photos
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Subscribed! This will be fun to follow along. Jim I have the same set of deluxe wheel covers if you are interested? Might be cheaper?
 
A bit more history on the car:
Almost lost the car several years ago at Carlisle. Had the car parked at a hotel in Mechanicsburg. It was out front, under the lights , right beside the highway. Came out in the morning and found pass window smashed and the ignition lock assembly lying on the floor. They probably had another keyed lock set to plug into the harness to start it. Fortunately I had it rigged so it would not start in park - otherwise it would have been gone!! A couple of other cars stolen the same weekend. Ever since then, I've taken extra precautions to make sure it cannot be started!!
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When the "domestic dispute" damage was repaired by Norm VerHage, he put on a 1967 passenger door instead of a '69. It fits OK but there are several visible differences:
1. The door lock knob is at the back of the door instead of closer to the front
2. There is a ventilation flap at the bottom rear of the door and another on the front
3. The latch and lock mechanisms are completely different than the '69
4. The vent window handle is different
5. The vent window frame has some small differences
6. The inner door skin is a completely different stamping
7. The outer skin is also a different stamping at the tab for the vent window frame

The door is in good condition, so I'm going to rework it to look like a '69 Door. ie move the door lock hole and weld up the old hole. Weld the ventilation holes. Change the latch and lock mechanisms to the '69 style. {Eddie Combs (barracudakid) kindly pulled a 69 latch and lock mechanism from a door to send to me.}
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I do not even bother locking mine up when out and about. Generally leave the windows down. If I am at all concerned I yank the coil wire and put it my pocket. No sense in trying anymore. I would rather not come back to see what you posted!
 
Doors disassembled
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Latch mechanism sure looks grungy!!!
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Passenger door vent frame & glass (This is from the replaced 1967 door)
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This is from the original 1969 drivers door. The differences are shown at the arrows.
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How did you tell the difference between 67 and 68??
Jim
Vent window and the chrome long screw the thats goes through the upper door steel panel to the vent window. 68 is more like 69 in that area. 68 and 69 vent window is the same.
 
Guess I learned something new. I had always thought that 67/68 had the same vent window frame.
Thx for the clarification
 
Guess I learned something new. I had always thought that 67/68 had the same vent window frame.
Thx for the clarification
I think you can turn it into 68 69, Handle and slot the mounting area in the vent frame and drill the door in the correct spot and weld up that other hole. You will have to look in the door to see if you can do that.
 
You can but you still have to fill the vent for 67/68 doors on the lower edge.

Seems better to find a 69 door and replace.

Hard to tell but looks like you have tinted on the 69 and non tinted glass on the 67 door.

The structure of the early door does not have the full relief of the 69 either for the lock pivot!
 
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The driver 69 door has been pretty cut up for something as well.
 
You can but you still have to fill the vent for 67/68 doors on the lower edge.

Seems better to find a 69 door and replace.

Hard to tell but looks like you have tinted on the 69 and non tinted glass on the 67 door.

I agree- would be a lot easier to find a 69 door - if only a good one was close!! I've looked for some but they were in worse condition than the one I have. I should be able to weld a patch on the vent holes without any problem. Yes - the pass glass is non tinted but I have a tinted replacement. (Lost the tinted one that was in the door when it was smashed during attempted theft)
Jim
 
How are you going to deal with the lock pivot area? Any thought? Maybe the first time I really looked at the inner stamping and they are surely not the same!

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I think you can turn it into 68 69, Handle and slot the mounting area in the vent frame and drill the door in the correct spot and weld up that other hole. You will have to look in the door to see if you can do that.

Would be a lot of work to modify the vent frame attachment to get rid of the long screw and install the brackets for the allen head bolt in the door. Would have to install this inside the door..
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Filling the vent is easy anyhow.

Still say a 69 door though.
 
How are going to deal with the lock pivot area? Any thought? Maybe the first time I really looked at the inner stamping and there are surely not the same!

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You guys sure have sharp eyes!!!! Yup - the inner stamping is definitely different. I've mocked this up and can make it fit. I just need to cut the oblong slot like this one on the 69 door and then use shims when I bolt the pivot in place. Should be no problem.
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