My doomed 408 build

Like I said I have a doomed build I am hoping to save.
My build so far is
Eagle fully forged bottom end. All the machine work needed. No issues.

Top end stock out of the box Edelbrock heads.
comp cams retro hydro roller cam. part #20-603-09
lifters are Howards cams 91764
crane cams adjustable gold rockers

All cylinders ring in right around 190 to 200# calculated 11 to 1 CR by the engine builder.

I have had it built and ran great with a comp cams hyd flat tappet cam, cam lobe wiped after about 100 miles.
Pulled engine, took to machine shop, had them tear down and find the problem. I didn't want to have to deal with a flat cam again so I upgraded to a hyd roller cam.

After they built it again with the roller set up and on the Dyno; cylinder 8 exhaust lifter collapsed. The shop replaced lifter and re-ran on dyno. Sadly lost power due to the slightly smaller cam. Took engine home and installed In my car. I drove the car around about 30 miles and the engine started to miss. I pulled into the driveway and had a nice top end clatter. I have done a compression test, and it is still where it should be. pulled rocker cover off found Number 8 exhaust rocker lose and I believe the lifter has collapsed again.

I talked to the machine shop, and due to it being a race engine there is no warranty. They nicely told me to go pound sand. ( I did pay for the second build as well and now they are done taking my money)

I am out of money for this project and race season is 2 months away.

What do you guys think I should do?
I have to pull the heads to take the lifters out, I spent daymn good money on the roller set up, but I don't want to deal with another collapsed lifter. As it sits If I pull it apart and go as cheap as possible it's still going to cost about $1K for parts.
I want to go solid flat tappet with eddy heads my max valve lift I can go is .570/ The guy at the shop had told me I don't want to go bigger then .540 so I don't wind up with coil bind.
It is my understanding that no matter what I do, I will need to get the springs upgraded. Who actually knows what the springs are. I dont trust the shop guy anymore. (there are other reasons on top of the stated problems)


I am up for suggestions
Sounds like the guy didn't want to change valve springs on the heads or something. I'd go to mild solid roller ".550-.575" before lash, throw k800 spring in it and enjoy the season.
Just don't try and shim the lifters solid, I think you have a spring or clearance issue, so address that 1st.

Call Doug herbert for a billet roller, springs to match be it k800 or comp917 ... then buy a crane coated steel gear for the intermediate shaft and get some Morell roller lifters. There are 4 versions and prices. If you go that way you can get out of this for around 700-900 bucks