I don't see anything wrong with that cam but it could be worn a small amount and not be visible in a picture. Only takes a few minutes to check lobe lift if you have a lifter and a dial indicator. If the cam lobe is worn down then the engine needs to come out for a rebuild since that cast iron dust is now floating around inside the engine. I'd double check the cam for wear before I rebuilt the engine, especially when the cam doesn't appear to be bad.
Help me sort my combo
- Thread starter 69conv
- Start date
-
So I've always run a top grade synthetic. The cam is out and still at the shop. The reason for the teardown is I overheated the motor by throwing the fan belt, and it seemed to me the valve train was noisier than it was before. Altho I didn't see anything in the filter they said there were some fine particles settled in the oil pan.
Last edited:
PRH
Well-Known Member
“Top grade synthetic” doesn’t tell me anything.
What brand, what weight?
Muscle car specific oil?
If you’re not using oil loaded with an additive package specifically designed for use in these old school motors....... you’re going to have short cam life.
FWIW, I agree with the machine shop...... there looks to be some abnormal wear on that cam.
I can’t tell if it’s two different lobes, or two pics of the same lobe.
What brand, what weight?
Muscle car specific oil?
If you’re not using oil loaded with an additive package specifically designed for use in these old school motors....... you’re going to have short cam life.
FWIW, I agree with the machine shop...... there looks to be some abnormal wear on that cam.
I can’t tell if it’s two different lobes, or two pics of the same lobe.
Last edited:
There is no synthetic on the market that has enough zinc for a flat tappet camshaft. Not one. Now let the arguments ensue.
@mopowers don't just disagree. Post what synthetic oil you think has enough zinc for a flat tappet and post how much zinc it has.
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Amsoil Z-rod - 1440ppm. Specifically designed for flat tappet cam engines.
Torco makes good synthetics as well.
Is 1440 enough? Do you know? Because I don't. If it is, I stand corrected. I do know that Amsoil was involved in a suit years ago regarding some of their claims. I don't remember the details, but they didn't win the suit. We were a dealer for Amsoil at the small family operated machine shop where I worked both in and out of high school. I never tried it, because it was expensive and I am cheap.
mopowers
Well-Known Member
I'd have a hard time believing they'd market an oil for flat tappet engines if 1440 wasn't adequate.
After a quick google search, I found this. But we all know what they say about the internet.
After a quick google search, I found this. But we all know what they say about the internet.
68dodge
Well-Known Member
Been using Royal Purple 10w40 HPS for 10 yrs now. Over a 100 runs at the track and run on the street, still using the same Edelbrock RPM cam with no problems. This oil has a higher concentration of zinc and phosphorus. Royal Purple does not tell how much is in there oil. This is made for flat tappet and roller tappet cams.
Last edited:
PRH
Well-Known Member
Joe Gibbs/Driven oil only exists because of the problems his Cup ream was having with cam failures.
Most of their racing synthetics are formulated for flat tappet cam use, along with the Hot Rod series of oils(which come in both petroleum and synthetic).
Most of their racing synthetics are formulated for flat tappet cam use, along with the Hot Rod series of oils(which come in both petroleum and synthetic).
Test Data on 9 Different Break-In Oils - CorvetteForum - Chevrolet Corvette Forum Discussion
BTW I didn't use any of these oils. Time for this old dog to learn a new trick.
BTW I didn't use any of these oils. Time for this old dog to learn a new trick.
PRH
Well-Known Member
You may want to do a little digging before you take anything 540Rat says as gospel when it comes to oils.
Appropriate spring loads(soft springing when necessary), careful checking for proper lifter rotation, along with Driven break in oil and then their Hot Rod oil afterward is what we use here.
Appropriate spring loads(soft springing when necessary), careful checking for proper lifter rotation, along with Driven break in oil and then their Hot Rod oil afterward is what we use here.
How often should you change the Hot Rod Oil?
PRH
Well-Known Member
It doesn’t sound like you drive your car very much, so I’d say once a year, or whatever you’re comfortable with for an oil change interval(2500-3000 miles, etc)........ whichever comes first.
The multiple short trips without really giving the oil a chance to get up to full operating temps for long enough to burn off the water/condensation is what I feel is the main factor in changing it every year, even if you’ve only driven the car a few hundred miles.
The multiple short trips without really giving the oil a chance to get up to full operating temps for long enough to burn off the water/condensation is what I feel is the main factor in changing it every year, even if you’ve only driven the car a few hundred miles.
Stopped by the shop today and got a better pic of the worst lobe. The center is actually concave. Think I'm about ready for a roller!
I had never heard of Schneider cams before Rusty suggested them, so I gave them a call today. Had a very nice conversation with Kevin and learned they are the company that designed the original purple shaft series for Mopar as well as cam profiles for the offenhauser motor. After a lengthy conversation about my build and expectations he said he could build a cam for me which would develope about 450hp, enough vacuum for my power brakes, an rpm band of 2-6000 and better drivability. I should get my new cam in about 2 weeks and the plan is to dyno the motor and have a converter built to take the best advantage of it. I feel like a kid at Christmas!
Cost exactly $6 more to have a custom cam.
My new cam should arrive any day, a bit more rollicking than the purple shaft so I'll need an adjustable valve train. No other damage to the motor other than a bit of the cam material slightly scored a crank journal. Waiting on the estimate. Oh boy.
leblanc
member 2883
Edelbrock RPM Air Gap intake manifold is also a great intake.
Just got my schneider custom cam today. Still need to gasket match the intake ports then back together.
VR1 and forget about it. I quit buying in to all the oil hype back in the early 80's after using the magical graphite oil. lol
Shop is finishing the assembly. Cam installed at 108 plenty of p2v clearance.
So heres one more thing I don't know. They installed adjustable rockers but now they want to put in custom pushrods. Using speedmaster PQX 3244011. Are the stock pushrods usable with the adjustable rockers?
Last edited:
PRH
Well-Known Member
I don’t understand how you could have the confidence in that shop to build you a motor, but not have the confidence in them to determine whether or not you need new pushrods.
-
