I have no Idea where to start

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I'd probably start with the floor pans. These cars are uni-body, so having a fully intact floor is important. And like others have already mentioned, once you have the carpet out you can see what you're really dealing with. This is what mine looked like when I removed the carpet:

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Auto Body Specialties sells pans that are just the foot well area if that's all you need. They're nice quality and fit really well. Almost done with the first side:

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And as you may have already learned, the foot well areas typically rust from the inside out, so replace the wiper pivot seals if they haven't already been done
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I would get it safe to drive, and see IF you like it!!! I have seen people that just do not like the feel of an old car! Either you will do all the work it needs r you will pay someone. Hopefully you will get the equipment and learn to do it yourself, with in reason. Sometimes just find a friend to help and share his stuff like a mig welder!
Looks like a nice project, much to learn here just reading old threads too. Keep us posted!
 
I think I emailed a few times with the seller of your 68' Dart, if it was located in Oklahoma? Was the sellers name Ace? I eventually found the 68' I am working on in Montana. The guys are right, One thing at a time. I chose do my quarter panels first, which also included outer wheel tubs. Get a Welder, important, get one that will use a gas bottle (clean welds). My Harbor Freight welder has been fantastic for the last 3.5 years, I used it while doing my Duster restoration. It now will join up all the Darts new sheet metal. This is the one I bought, you'll have to get a bottle too. 170 Amp-DC, 240 Volt, MIG/Flux Cored Welder Of course you can always get a Miller or other very nice welders for more money, but I found this HF to be just fine and makes great welds.

Sometimes it helps to ask questions, sometimes it helps to get someone Live on the phone to go over something you are quite sure of. You will learn a ton, it will be frustrating at times but in the end you will have a very nice car. Make a plan, of what you want to do with the car, then go at it in steps, one thing at a time.

Alex
 
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barbee6043 said:
I would get it safe to drive, and see IF you like it!!! I have seen people that just do not like the feel of an old car! Either you will do all the work it needs r you will pay someone. Hopefully you will get the equipment and learn to do it yourself, with in reason. Sometimes just find a friend to help and share his stuff like a mig welder!
Looks like a nice project, much to learn here just reading old threads too. Keep us posted!
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Great post.
The very first thing i would do is to get the paperwork sorted out and the car in your name, if you haven't already done so.

Second, (and be completely honest with yourself) what's your budget? (both time and money).

Third, Do a lot of research and reading. Joining here was a very smart move, there is a lot of people on here willing to help as well as a gold mine of info in the threads.
Buying a Factory Service Manual will pay off tenfold in the future.

Other notes:
-Do not expect to make money on the car when you are finished re doing it. Do it as a labor of love, not an investment.
-You'll save a lot of money in the long run by not redoing things.
Example: If you plan to go with big bolt pattern front discs, don't spend any money on the small bolt pattern brakes or suspension, do it all at once.
-Also, i would buy a complete aftermarket air conditioning package instead of using the old one and rebuilding it.
Do this especially if you're going with a big block, it is lighter, more compact, and better all around.
-Do as much of the work as you can yourself. You will save a lot of money and learn a lot along the way.
-Realize that these older cars do not drive like the newer ones that you are used to.
They can be made to steer, brake, and handle like the newer ones, but it is expensive and a lot of work.
-Sell off the parts you don't need to put more money into the car.

Lastly, don't be afraid to ask questions, again, there are a lot of people on here with many years of experience with these cars, (myself included) and we all learn from one another. I learn something new every time i log on.

There's a lot more, but there is a lot of good advice on this thread already.
Good luck, and great to have you aboard.
 
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txstang84 said:
Agree with the general sentiment in here...

Get/keep it insured, drivable
Fix the little issues
Procure a legitimate factory service manual
Inspect all around under and inside the car (I would pay particular attention to wiring as the factory stuff is literally 50 years old)
Look into parts like electronic ignition upgrade, ammeter bypass if not already done
Go ahead and pull your interior including the carpet out-this will help you build your spreadsheet...it looks like you have a bad front passenger side pan, but look at all the potential areas under the carpet...
Garrett's suggestion above for finding soft metal is a good one...slag hammer works great for that purpose.

I was about to launch into a novel about all the things you might want to start looking into for your desired swap, but you need to figure out "your way." Start perusing the threads about your desired direction, pay attention to the stickies, and read read read. I spend a pretty good bit of time lurking in the resto section because tons of people have already done big metal replacement and documented it very well...the same goes for the small and big block forums, the drivetrain forums, the brake forums, etc etc ad nauseam.

Welcome aboard, I look forward to seeing more about your adventure with your new toy...and I sympathize about the wheels...I am a little curious though-is this still a small bolt pattern car or has it already been swapped?
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No the wheels are bolted to these ridiculous spacer/adapters...its insane. I'll look for a hammer that was mentioned and start looking for soft metal. The wiring us the easy part, I know most people dont think that way but I'm an Aircraft Avionics Tech so wiring is in my nature lol. Thank you for the advice.

Stephen B.
 
Ok, first, this is a long journey, not a quick trip. Plan your build now and stay firm to your vision. If you’re truly set on a big block, then set yourself on that road learning what that means. It’s heavier than a small block, so heavier duty items are needed in driveline, things that are not factory parts. Being that you already need front end work, that would be the time to put your big block plan in place there. Larger torsion bars, new joints and bushings on everything, maybe a sway bar, shocks, everything you do now should reflect your vision of the car.

Since you are a spreadsheet guy, go through every aspect of the car, write areas down by category, then break down every part that needs replaced in that area. Interior for instance....front seats, need covers, maybe foam, and tracks. Door panels?...color, availability, price, originality or aftermarket? Headliner, dash pad, package tray, seatbelts, carpet, armrests, handles and trim. Take stock of the parts you have, what could be done to them to refurbish them to save money, and how and where to get stuff you need. Then come here and ask questions...”where can I get _______ for my 70 Dart?” Then visit websites and build a price sheet for every item and where to get it.

Then take one area at a time and concentrate on that based on your research, the car’s immediate needs, and your long term goals!! Boom, $1000’s of hours and dollars later, you will have your prize!!
 
txstang84 said:
gawd I wish I still had all my factory two barrel stuff-I'd give them to you-it's making me itch to see all those open holes in the valve covers and no breather...
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It has the black round air filter thing, just no air filter. And it has one side going to s valve cover just not the other. It starts and runs and theres not alot of vapor coming out of the valve covers so I'm guessing the rings shouldnt be too bad. It definatly isn't a fan of quick throttle and it stumbles unless you slowly get on it. I gave it new plugs, new distributor innards, and a new fuel filter. The fuel going to the filter looks really clean so probably not rust in tank(?). I'm guessing the timing is off or something else is acting up. I'll have to get a timing light and the manual l, as everyone seems to agree on that.

Stephen B.
 
Stephen_Bull said:
It has the black round air filter thing, just no air filter. And it has one side going to s valve cover just not the other. It starts and runs and theres not alot of vapor coming out of the valve covers so I'm guessing the rings shouldnt be too bad. It definatly isn't a fan of quick throttle and it stumbles unless you slowly get on it. I gave it new plugs, new distributor innards, and a new fuel filter. The fuel going to the filter looks really clean so probably not rust in tank(?). I'm guessing the timing is off or something else is acting up. I'll have to get a timing light and the manual l, as everyone seems to agree on that.

Stephen B.
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Yeah, Carter BBDs are not exactly known for being great...I drove mine around for maybe a year or so before getting tired of fighting with it and went with a 4bbl...

Your base timing probably should be about 8-10* BTDC, but would probably run better at 12. There are plenty of threads on here about the process to get a good idle, so I'll let your fingers do the walking-the search bar sometimes doesn't give the returns you want, but keep at it. While you're doing the adjustments, pop the cap off and make a quick check of your advance mechanism and your vacuum can with a hand held pump...if the diaphragm in there leaks you won't have any vacuum advance + a leak...if the weights stick or don't swing out, you won't have reliable mechical advance.

Look up @RustyRatRod for some of his advice...
 
So I really want to keep power steering and A/C and I figure, (cause I'm a before and after kind of guy) I could see how much power A/C and P/S robs just by pulling the belt(s) off lol.

Ok, so the pictures. Passenger side rear window teim/seal thing is gone (dont know what its called) driver side has it but it's bad.

There is a random idler pulley on the driver side near what I think would be the P/S pymp and bracket.

There is one A/C line going to the condenser

There is a gap between the alternator and the head, where I guess the A/C comp bracket would go and be a spacer(?).

There is a random wire, I'm pretty sure is the A/C clutch wire.

There is only one heater core hose from the block, no other hoses, and I dont know where the other one would go from the heater core to the....???

And the passenger fender has holes where stuff used to be mounted. Not sure what.

So 1st thing 1st. Buy a Manual, ok got it I'll do that. Lol then I'll keep posting on what i need to do.

Oh, I did give it a new brake M/C (I hate brake systems, I'm a spark chaser, not a bubble chaser).

Stephen B.

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Start with all the safety stuff. Ball joints,control arm bushings, new brakes, make sure all your steering equipment is good if not replace it. Once all the safety stuff is taken care of and you can safely drive it......get rid of those damn wheels. Hahaha those things are god awful. Lol but seriously once its driving (safely and dependably) start on rust repair body work new paint etc. Then when that is done start upgrading the performance aspect. Its alot easier to stay motivated and inspired on a project you can jump in and drive after a long day of hard work. Imo
 
Stephen_Bull said:
Ok, so the pictures. Passenger side rear window teim/seal thing is gone (dont know what its called) driver side has it but it's bad.

Quarter window seal...look in the exterior parts for sale-might find the trim piece, or if not, put up a wanted ad-I bet someone here has one for sale. The seals are about $24/pr at pretty much any resto site

There is a random idler pulley on the driver side near what I think would be the P/S pymp and bracket.

That's one I've not seen before...

There is one A/C line going to the condenser

There is a gap between the alternator and the head, where I guess the A/C comp bracket would go and be a spacer(?).

I wish I could go take a pic of mine right now-I have the stock '72 front end accessories with A/C pump-look around through engine pics on the site-you'll probably see what you need within minutes

There is a random wire, I'm pretty sure is the A/C clutch wire.

I was all but positive the clutch activation wire was black, but again, not near my vehicle

There is only one heater core hose from the block, no other hoses, and I dont know where the other one would go from the heater core to the....???

The other end, if it were installed would go to the plugged port in your water pump

And the passenger fender has holes where stuff used to be mounted. Not sure what.

Depending on which holes, might be a vacuum ball, or the heater hose bracket, or the heater hose shutoff valve...or possibly the A/C drier if you're up closer to the front.

So 1st thing 1st. Buy a Manual, ok got it I'll do that. Lol then I'll keep posting on what i need to do.

Oh, I did give it a new brake M/C (I hate brake systems, I'm a spark chaser, not a bubble chaser).

Aww c'mon-brakes are easy on these things
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As far as the ridiculous spacers, that tells me you probably need to start looking for small bolt pattern wheels if you're wanting to get rid of the ones you have hastily. Otherwise, you'll be looking not only another set of wheels, but also a big bolt disc brake setup for the front and either redrilled or new axles and drums for the back. Down that rabbit hole, you said before about wanting a new rear...honestly, I'd look for a 73-76 A body 8.25 if you can...they bolt right in, it's a decent rear, parts are available...if you want to go 8 3/4, carefully weigh your options...
 
In regards to the A/C system, my advise would be that if you have to have A/C, you would be much better served getting the aftermarket A/C setups now available than trying to piece together an old antiquated system that is inefficient, hard to find parts for, and is unable to run any coolant that you can readily find.

The window piece on the passenger side that you are missing is called the division moulding, and is an easy part to find. Before putting out a lookout for it, look down inside the door, it may be there. It is held on the glass by use of butyl rubber tape, and they often come loose.

Looks like you’re also missing the upper channel seals that the windows roll up into, those are readily available in the aftermarket from places like Steele Rubber or the like.
 
Everyone has given me great advice so far. I really appreciate. I want to make sure the safety stuff is good so I'll be te as ring things down to suspension this weekend and working my way up. It has carpet but not molded carpet, it's like someone grabbed a roll and threw it in. Yes it's the one in Oklahoma, owner was Ace. I agree about the aftermarket A/C set ups, I had just seen that when I read the post. I'm not sure if I missed it or not from a response but how specific are service manuals? Does it legitimately have to be 1968 Dodge Dart GT or are the manuals for a "family" of cars?

Stephen B.
 
Stephen_Bull said:
Everyone has given me great advice so far. I really appreciate. I want to make sure the safety stuff is good so I'll be te as ring things down to suspension this weekend and working my way up. It has carpet but not molded carpet, it's like someone grabbed a roll and threw it in. Yes it's the one in Oklahoma, owner was Ace. I agree about the aftermarket A/C set ups, I had just seen that when I read the post. I'm not sure if I missed it or not from a response but how specific are service manuals? Does it legitimately have to be 1968 Dodge Dart GT or are the manuals for a "family" of cars?

Stephen B.
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a. You don't have to tear it down to check the suspension. Pretty much all the testing can be done while its together.
b. Seats and carpet come out pretty easy. You can put the seats back in without carpet - there's no wires to step on.
c. You can get either a Dodge or Plymouth Factory Service Manual for 1968. There's no further breakdown for regular production cars.
1. If something doesn't make sense, look for a TSB. The 1970 Hamtramck Registry Library Page (1965 - 1969)
2. If you need tech guidance, see what Master Tech had to say: Master Technician Service Conference - Chrysler's Training for Mechanics
If you want to see factory sales and advert literature, look through Hamtramck historical website, at least to start.
 
Dartnut's post is really good. I have no Idea where to start

I realize its handy to have running and driving. So if you want to make that your priority, that's fine. But the body and chassis is what everything hangs on. So in this case, after seeing the trunk, I wouldn't put the body work off too long. It's also where the value of any car is. I'm not saying you'll get your money back - but the body is what people will pay for, whether its an insurance adjuster or a buyer.
When you're checking the suspension, also check the condition of the key chassis supports areas. See if its finger soft, or holed with rust. Then if you feel brave, see if a screwdriver will easily push through it.
Check:
Transmission cross member where the torsion bar sockets are welded in.
Rockers, especially the inner.
Rear spring mount area.
Rear leaf shackel area.

As for wheels, 14 x 4.5 steel small bolt pattern wheels aren't hard to find. Someone might give you set. That will keep you rolling.
Cast aluminum slots and Crager SS are also pretty easy to find, but unlikely to be free.

Going to a bigblock from a 318 is best done as a whole package; engine, transmission, driveshaft, rear axle. There will also be a bunch of small parts if you don't get a complete doner.
The Mopar Performance/Direct Connection Chassis Book has a couple chapters on details of an engine swap.
here's a scan of the original bulletin that was later made put in that book.
Moparts on the Web - Main Index

For a shop manual download, you can see if there are any on mymopar.com I hate that site as they have often taken and reposted stuff that isn't theirs without asking. But they do have many factory shop manual scans on-line, and also some part books. You may find pages missing, but hey its better than nothing until you get your own.
PS. If you see a reprint by Faxon, be very careful before buying. They were Chrysler's official reprinter for a while but did a really poor job on the Jeep service manual I bought. looks like it was done on a copy machine and pages were missing.
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Stephen_Bull said:
And it has one side going to s valve cover just not the other. It starts and runs and theres not alot of vapor coming out of the valve covers so I'm guessing the rings shouldnt be too bad.
Click to expand...
Missing the PCV valve and hose connection to the base of the carb. You can get those at any parts store. That provides a metered amount of air at idle, so if that's missing or plugged, the mix will be off.

Stephen_Bull said:
There is a gap between the alternator and the head, where I guess the A/C comp bracket would go and be a spacer(?).
Click to expand...
Yes there is a second spacer on non-a/c set ups. If someone doesn't have, you can buy a spacer from an industrial supply and cut to length.

Stephen_Bull said:
There is only one heater core hose from the block, no other hoses, and I dont know where the other one would go from the heater core to the....???
Click to expand...
Water pump. Yours has a pipe plug there.

Stephen_Bull said:
And the passenger fender has holes where stuff used to be mounted. Not sure what.
Click to expand...
Side marker light.
 
Mattax said:
Missing the PCV valve and hose connection to the base of the carb. You can get those at any parts store. That provides a metered amount of air at idle, so if that's missing or plugged, the mix will be off.

Yes there is a second spacer on non-a/c set ups. If someone doesn't have, you can buy a spacer from an industrial supply and cut to length.

Water pump. Yours has a pipe plug there.

Side marker light.
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Ok cool, I thought that would be where the hose goes.

I meant inner fender lol I've got all the lights. Sorry I didnt specify.

Stephen B.
 
Stephen_Bull said:
Ok cool, I thought that would be where the hose goes.

I meant inner fender lol I've got all the lights. Sorry I didnt specify.

Stephen B.
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Prob A/C hose mount clamps. On the driver side could be plastic snap in wire cable clamps.
PS. Speaking of inner fenders, the driver side shock bolt doesn't look like it was tightened.
 
cosgig said:
In regards to the A/C system, my advise would be that if you have to have A/C, you would be much better served getting the aftermarket A/C setups now available than trying to piece together an old antiquated system that is inefficient, hard to find parts for, and is unable to run any coolant that you can readily find.

The window piece on the passenger side that you are missing is called the division moulding, and is an easy part to find. Before putting out a lookout for it, look down inside the door, it may be there. It is held on the glass by use of butyl rubber tape, and they often come loose.

Looks like you’re also missing the upper channel seals that the windows roll up into, those are readily available in the aftermarket from places like Steele Rubber or the like.
Click to expand...

You were right, it was down inside the rear "wall" of the car. Thanks! one less piece to buy. So the floor is a little worse than I thought. Driver's side too, I'll be replacing those sections. But it is for sure rusting from the inside out. So maybe this weekend I'll remove the heater box and look around up underneath and see if it's the fresh air vent cowl, the wiper arm seals or the windshield seal. Hopefully it's anything BUT the cowl vents, I'm really not wanting to cut the outside of the car apart. Also, since my car is a factory A/C car, I'll try to do a write-up on heater/air box removal with pictures. I tried searching and I didn't really see anything that helped that much, so I'll probably document the step by step. Anyways, thanks for everyone's advice so far. I look forward to working on this little car.

Stephen B.
 
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