More truck issues. Oil question.

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dartfreak75

dartfreak75

Restore it, Dont part it!
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As some of you know I'm fighting a losing battle with my everyday driver 2001 ram 1500. Yesterday I finished replacing the wheel hub (bearings) today I was attempting to check the diff fluid but its raining to hard and muddy. But I check the oil and it was completely empty like not even showing on the dipstick I added a quart and its showing about 1/2 inch on the bottom of the dipstick now. Here is the problem. I just changed the oil less than 2k miles ago. So I'm burning up to 4 quarts in 2k miles. It don't leak anything dramatically. It's got 260k so typical valve covers but nothing excessive. Nothing on the ground where I park etc. So its burning it.
Here is my question. Will a heavier oil help this? I'm gonna start using some Lucas and the thought about going to straight 30w or even 40w I run gtx high mileage 10w30 now. Always have since I have owned this truck. (Eight years now) its always used a little like a quart every oil change. I usually go around 4k every oil change. But this go around I'm only half way thru and went thru at least 4 quarts. Is there anything else I can do short of rebuilding the entire engine? Remember this truck is on life support and do not want to throw a ton of money at it. Thanks
 
dartfreak75 said:
As some of you know I'm fighting a losing battle with my everyday driver 2001 ram 1500. Yesterday I finished replacing the wheel hub (bearings) today I was attempting to check the diff fluid but its raining to hard and muddy. But I check the oil and it was completely empty like not even showing on the dipstick I added a quart and its showing about 1/2 inch on the bottom of the dipstick now. Here is the problem. I just changed the oil less than 2k miles ago. So I'm burning up to 4 quarts in 2k miles. It don't leak anything dramatically. It's got 260k so typical valve covers but nothing excessive. Nothing on the ground where I park etc. So its burning it.
Here is my question. Will a heavier oil help this? I'm gonna start using some Lucas and the thought about going to straight 30w or even 40w I run gtx high mileage 10w30 now. Always have since I have owned this truck. (Eight years now) its always used a little like a quart every oil change. I usually go around 4k every oil change. But this go around I'm only half way thru and went thru at least 4 quarts. Is there anything else I can do short of rebuilding the entire engine? Remember this truck is on life support and do not want to throw a ton of money at it. Thanks
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If it's never been apart in 260K miles then it's rings, valve guide seals and most likely the intake manifold base plate gasket. Look down through the throttle plates with a strong beam of light and if you see a pool of oil, there is your answer to that amount of oil lose. Should be fouling your plugs with that kind of oil usage if you are burning it, unless you are working it real hard.

That's pretty light oil (10w-30) for that number of miles. Surprised your oil pressure isn't low. You can try some 15w-40 but it's not a fix. Oil is cheap vs a tear down/rebuild if it's not a keeper!
 
I typicly use 10w40 on a chevy i have that leaks and it helps. Have you done a leakdown test?
 
If it’s a magnum motor, it’s mostly likely the gasket on the bottom of the intake. Buy the aluminum plate kit from Hughes and be done with it! Been there, done that a few times!!
 
dartfreak75 said:
As some of you know I'm fighting a losing battle with my everyday driver 2001 ram 1500. Yesterday I finished replacing the wheel hub (bearings) today I was attempting to check the diff fluid but its raining to hard and muddy. But I check the oil and it was completely empty like not even showing on the dipstick I added a quart and its showing about 1/2 inch on the bottom of the dipstick now. Here is the problem. I just changed the oil less than 2k miles ago. So I'm burning up to 4 quarts in 2k miles. It don't leak anything dramatically. It's got 260k so typical valve covers but nothing excessive. Nothing on the ground where I park etc. So its burning it.
Here is my question. Will a heavier oil help this? I'm gonna start using some Lucas and the thought about going to straight 30w or even 40w I run gtx high mileage 10w30 now. Always have since I have owned this truck. (Eight years now) its always used a little like a quart every oil change. I usually go around 4k every oil change. But this go around I'm only half way thru and went thru at least 4 quarts. Is there anything else I can do short of rebuilding the entire engine? Remember this truck is on life support and do not want to throw a ton of money at it. Thanks
Click to expand...
.
Thought this was already figured out in your other thread. The plenum gasket is blown you're sucking oil you're sucking air. Pull the intake and fix it.
 
340demon72 said:
If it's never been apart in 260K miles then it's rings, valve guide seals and most likely the intake manifold base plate gasket. Look down through the throttle plates with a strong beam of light and if you see a pool of oil, there is your answer to that amount of oil lose. Should be fouling your plugs with that kind of oil usage if you are burning it, unless you are working it real hard.

That's pretty light oil (10w-30) for that number of miles. Surprised your oil pressure isn't low. You can try some 15w-40 but it's not a fix. Oil is cheap vs a tear down/rebuild if it's not a keeper!
Click to expand...
Thanks my oil pressure seems to fluctuate but never what I consider low. I was kinda thinking the intake gasket I wasn't sure if thicker oil would slow it down or not.
 
oldkimmer said:
This!!!!
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Yes "this" is what I'm trying to avoid lol. I don't want to spend time and money on this truck just for it break something else in 5 months. I was thinking maybe thicker oil would slow down the usage or how much its sucking oil in.
 
Phillips 25w60 is what I would use..pretty thick stuff.

iuS43633XO.jpg
 
Vamisk said:
I typicly use 10w40 on a chevy i have that leaks and it helps. Have you done a leakdown test?
Click to expand...
No I haven't done anything. Just checked the oil today and was like damnit. Lol I'm gonna put down 40w in it with some Lucas and hope it makes it a other 6 months to a year. I'm not about to rebuild this engine when the body and frame look like this. It's been a really great truck and I really love it and don't want to see it go that's why I'm having such a hard time buying something else. But it's just economical to put money it. The frame has just as much rust as the body. The interior is falling apart it's just not worth it to fix.

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Jadaharabi said:
Engine Intake Manifold Gasket Set Lower Upper Dorman 615-310 | eBay


DODGE 360 MAGNUM ALUMINUM PLENUM REPAIR PLATE BOLTS INCLUDED 1992-2003 5.2L,5.9L | eBay
pretty much all of the parts needed to fix it correctly and less money than the Hughes kit.
Splitting the hairs on the loosing or using I think.
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I'm wasnt talking about "missing" oil in the other thread I was talking about the engine missing spitting and sputtering after it sets. Not using oil. In the other thread. Doesn't matter tho. I was just giving you a hard time. Lol thanks for the info!
 
I ran 20w-50 in my worn out oil sucker. Come to find the oil pressure sending unit was leaking only when running. Replaced it and that slowed up some major oil consumption. The first number is the weight 10w40 same weight as 10w30.

I had and old 53 chevy tow truck. That thing smoked bad with the original motor. I gave this stuff a try.
Restore Engine Restorer & Lubricant 250ML | eBay

I could not believe how fast it stopped smoking. A 1 hr ride and it never smoked again. Using that much oil that thing must be a crop duster. If its not smoking bad check the sending unit

There the old truck is in the back ground. 25 yrs later I was still driving it.

xrt3.jpg


11.jpg
 
Stop at service station,check the gas,fill the oil...
 
Tooljunkie said:
Stop at service station,check the gas,fill the oil...
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Fill The Oil... That reminded me of my neighbors son. Todd told Dillan to check the oil in his car. Those of you that have been here have met them. Todd said there is a case in the garage Take what you need. About a hour later Dillan calls and says the car died.

We both looked at one another and said he never tightened the plug. We looked at the case of oil and it was gone. After towing him home we check the oil and it was filled to the top.

Todd started screaming at Dillan and asked him why he put that much oil in. "Didn't you check it"!!
Dillan quietly said, Dad I took the stick out of its holder put it in the motor where I was pouring it in until I had the correct reading on the stick, Todd smashed the windshield right out of the car.

Dillan looked at him and said you owe me a car. We started laughing so hard I had tears in my eyes. he was dipping the stick in the valve cover.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
The first number is the weight 10w40 same weight as 10w30.
Click to expand...

Both numbers are the weight. The first number is the viscosity at 0°F. That's where the W comes from. It designates a winter grade oil. The second number is viscosity at 210°F. It measures how thick oil is at operating temperature. At 210°F, a 10W-40 must fall into a heavier range than a 10W-30, or say a 5W-20. When hot, a 20W-50 will be heavier still. So, for the purpose of helping a problem engine that burns or leaks oil, the second number is the most relevant.
 
Oldmanmopar said:
I ran 20w-50 in my worn out oil sucker. Come to find the oil pressure sending unit was leaking only when running. Replaced it and that slowed up some major oil consumption. The first number is the weight 10w40 same weight as 10w30.

I had and old 53 chevy tow truck. That thing smoked bad with the original motor. I gave this stuff a try.
Restore Engine Restorer & Lubricant 250ML | eBay

I could not believe how fast it stopped smoking. A 1 hr ride and it never smoked again. Using that much oil that thing must be a crop duster. If its not smoking bad check the sending unit

There the old truck is in the back ground. 25 yrs later I was still driving it.

View attachment 1715293716

View attachment 1715293717
Click to expand...
Yea I use restore in all my vehicles at every oil change I have for several years. It's a good product.
 
So with the summer coming soon and not much cold weather left I could run a 20w50 and still be heavier at operating temp and not be overly thick when cold. Plus I'm gonna some Lucas oil to it too.
 
S'cuder said:
Both numbers are the weight. The first number is the viscosity at 0°F. That's where the W comes from. It designates a winter grade oil. The second number is viscosity at 210°F. It measures how thick oil is at operating temperature. At 210°F, a 10W-40 must fall into a heavier range than a 10W-30, or say a 5W-20. When hot, a 20W-50 will be heavier still. So, for the purpose of helping a problem engine that burns or leaks oil, the second number is the most relevant.
Click to expand...
Learned something again today. Ain't this site great
 
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