hard brake pedal cant get back brakes to bleed.

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bbmopars

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I have a very hard brake pedal on a 71 dart,manual brake car.
cant get the back brakes to bleed.tried one of brake vacuum bleeder kits and still no fluid comin out.tried havin someone pumpin the brakes and nothin.what could be the problem?it has new a master cylinder and lines.
 
I have a very hard brake pedal on a 71 dart,manual brake car.
cant get the back brakes to bleed.tried one of brake vacuum bleeder kits and still no fluid comin out.tried havin someone pumpin the brakes and nothin.what could be the problem?it has new a master cylinder and lines.

Did you replace the rear brake hose?

Could be a collapsed or damaged hose restricting fluid flow.

Hope this helps
 
No fluid coming out the back? Does it have a proportioning valve?
Is pedal returning all the way up? Push rod too long maybe.
 
What all was changed with the brake update? And did they work before?
 
Ok, so it has a brand new master cylinder, all new brake lines front to rear and new hoses. Did the master cylinder bench bleed ok? And do the front brakes get fluid?
 
Ok, so it has a brand new master cylinder, all new brake lines front to rear and new hoses. Did the master cylinder bench bleed ok? And do the front brakes get fluid?
Yah the fronts work,it should have.i had a shop do it when the car was getting painted.
 
Well if the fronts work then there has to be some kind of issue between the master cylinder and the rear brakes. Line plugged, combination valve stuck, maybe an issue with the rear hose. New doesn't necessarily mean good. If it's both rear brakes then it has to be at or before the rear hose.
 
With a helper pressing on brake pedal, crack nut on line at master cylinder going to rear brakes. If pedal drops and fluid is expelled then move on down the line until you find the blockage.helper doesent have to push hard, just some.
 
With a helper pressing on brake pedal, crack nut on line at master cylinder going to rear brakes. If pedal drops and fluid is expelled then move on down the line until you find the blockage.helper doesent have to push hard, just some.


^^THIS^^. You must bench bleed the master. I would do above except start "in the middle" someplace with a helper. Either crack the rear line at the prop valve/ distro block or at the rear axle and work forward or backward from there.
 
I did not see anything about the wheel cylinders being replaced, do you have disc brakes in the rear? I have had brand new wheel cylinders not want to work until I said the correct combination of swear words, then poof they worked.

I would start at the rear brake hose. That has been a source of issues for me. Disconnect it at the tee on the rear end. Have someone or yourself press the brake. If fluid comes out then you are good at that point. If nothing comes out take it completely out , have some one press the pedal again and see if anything comes out of the steel line that goes to the rear brake hose. If the master cylinder is working you will get fluid hear. Also you can pour some fluid into the rear brake hose, since its off , and see if there is an obstruction, or just look through it.Then depending on how long the car has sat the wheel cylinders may be stuck or the tee on the rear end is plugged. I would then disconnect at a wheel cylinder and press the brake pedal and see if any fluid is expelled from the brake line. Either way its all trouble shoot at this point , but you will have no choice but to crack open the rear brake lines.
 
I did not see anything about the wheel cylinders being replaced, do you have disc brakes in the rear? I have had brand new wheel cylinders not want to work until I said the correct combination of swear words, then poof they worked.

I would start at the rear brake hose. That has been a source of issues for me. Disconnect it at the tee on the rear end. Have someone or yourself press the brake. If fluid comes out then you are good at that point. If nothing comes out take it completely out , have some one press the pedal again and see if anything comes out of the steel line that goes to the rear brake hose. If the master cylinder is working you will get fluid hear. Also you can pour some fluid into the rear brake hose, since its off , and see if there is an obstruction, or just look through it.Then depending on how long the car has sat the wheel cylinders may be stuck or the tee on the rear end is plugged. I would then disconnect at a wheel cylinder and press the brake pedal and see if any fluid is expelled from the brake line. Either way its all trouble shoot at this point , but you will have no choice but to crack open the rear brake lines.
Oh ok i see that was the only thing i didnt replace yet were wheel cylinders.there drum in the back.its a 8 1/4 rearend
 
I like the idea of checking each connection from the M Cyl back. Open each connection slightly while pressing on the pedal. You will soon know where the problem is. Mine was at the rear black hose.
 
I like the idea of checking each connection from the M Cyl back. Open each connection slightly while pressing on the pedal. You will soon know where the problem is. Mine was at the rear black hose.
Oh ok i replaced that hose,I'll look into that to
 
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It’s possible that both wheel cylinders are bad and failed in the exact same way (not passing fluid). But it’s a lot more likely that there’s a single issue, which puts it before the line spilts to the wheel cylinders. Just saying.
 
It’s possible that both wheel cylinders are bad and failed in the exact same way (not passing fluid). But it’s a lot more likely that there’s a single issue, which puts it before the line spilts to the wheel cylinders. Just saying.
I tried bleedin both sides and nothin at all.that was my next though wheel cylinders.
 
Not exactly sure,was doin a restoration on car when got it.never drove it

I would loosen the line at the wheel cylinder and pump, see if it gets wet(seriously no perversion intended Ha) before condemning the wheel cylinders. You could do this without help. Fluid goes in and comes out, getting blocked at some point. Process of elimination. look at it in sections.
Master
Lines to front distribution block,
Line
Rear distribution block
Line split to wheels
Wheel cylinders left and right

You could loosen the lines one at a time either from front to back or back to front
 
Started at master cylinder i have fluid squirting out both sides.un screw the lines to check.so I have fluid pumping just not gettin to the back. Undid main line that supplys fluid to back and nothing at all.unscrew line at back under bleeder valve nothing at all.
 
How about distro block/ metering valve/. proportioning valve?
 
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