NHRA STOCK CLASS DUSTER

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Jeremy said:
I'm an industrial Machinist i work(or i did before the cancer) in the local Chemical plants and i used to help alot for Trumble race shop. They build Pro Stock on down. Jimmy told me my Ritter block was as heavy duty as any pro stock block anywhere
I used to hone my own but now I have Mike do it. He uses Sunnan hone with diamond stones it really does a wonderful job. I recommend it for anyone it worth the cost.
Yes. I use a 1996 Dokota 360 oil pan. It a much better pan but it does require some baffling. Oil in this pan will run away from the pickup when you hit the brakes. I learned this the hard way.

If anyone plans on using a Ritter block I would suggest having only Mike Slabeck doing the machine work as he has done two.
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Jeremy said:
I'm an industrial Machinist i work(or i did before the cancer) in the local Chemical plants and i used to help alot for Trumble race shop. They build Pro Stock on down. Jimmy told me my Ritter block was as heavy duty as any pro stock block anywhere
I used to hone my own but now I have Mike do it. He uses Sunnan hone with diamond stones it really does a wonderful job. I recommend it for anyone it worth the cost.
Yes. I use a 1996 Dokota 360 oil pan. It a much better pan but it does require some baffling. Oil in this pan will run away from the pickup when you hit the brakes. I learned this the hard way.

If anyone plans on using a Ritter block I would suggest having only Mike Slabeck doing the machine work as he has done two.
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Jeremy is Trumble Race Shop a chassis builder and engine builder or just a chassis shop? Do you use chrome molly for Roll Bar in the Duster and Challenger ?
 
Allen Shermans Racing Engines (Trumbles)
Is an engine shop only but they done a few other things but don't like too.
Have steel roll bar in the Duster an a Chrome Moly roll bar in the Challenger.
 
I posted this request on the Challenger thread.

Could one of you guys post a picture of the Dakota pan on an a body?
 
Jadaharabi said:
I posted this request on the Challenger thread.

Could one of you guys post a picture of the Dakota pan on an a body?
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I can open the box and show you the pan I have. I will also get the part number.
 
As I've been told by stocker guys, it was a one year only pan that worked. Memory is telling me 1991.
 
Jadaharabi said:
I posted this request on the Challenger thread.

Could one of you guys post a picture of the Dakota pan on an a body?
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This should help. In 92 the 318 went Magnum and from then on used 360 pans. I do not believe the aftermarket reproduces this pan as it is very specific to 1 year.
Screenshot_20190222-153708_Samsung Internet.jpg


Screenshot_20190222-153722_Samsung Internet.jpg
 
Thank you Jeremy appreciate that picture. Now I understand. Could not get my head around it.

My understanding is that that pan holds 4.75 quarts. So are you saying to run 4 quarts in it?
 
ValiantRacing said:
87 thur 91 on the dakota oil pan, the problem is most of those trucks were V6's
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It sucks looking for a V8 Dakota any year as most all were V6’s. Nothing new here.
Jeremy said:
This is only a small part of the horsepower to be gained here.
1. Throw away the windage tray.
2. Less oil in the pan.
3. A lighter weight oil. (Pro Stockers us a 0W10 or lighter.
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Thanks for the picture and pan tip. Very cool of you my man. Good tips. My added 2 cents....

A windage tray should be used with a stock pan. As designed by the factory for that function. Once you run a deep pan, it is optional. Anyone running a race ride should do there due diligence. A crank scraper is a good idea as well.

Less oil in the pan is fine as long as there is enough to feed the engine properly. A deep pan that can hold a lot of oil doesn’t mean you need to carry more oil than the stock pan held. The pan companies are just telling you there size in quarts, not what should be in them. Honestly, if you have a 8 quart pan, run what the factory pan normally held to start. Run less if you can without detriment to the engine of course.

Lighter weight oils are worth a few ponies for sure. I would do so with tighter clearances. Tighter the better with the above mentioned oil.
 
Jeremy said:
If you think you would like to check out a Dakota Pan, you might want to check out Summit part number Dorman 264-233 or Spectra SGT-CRP25A.
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Jeremy , Thanks ,the pan is very inexpensive $51.99 , cheap enough to give a try for sure, I was looking for the pickup tube do you Know the part# for the tube?
Dan Dvorak told me when he was setting records with His A/SA , He used 0-10 Royal Purple , 3 quarts only and only during record runs,There is a risk involved . Thanks for all the great information !
 
RedB. said:
Jeremy , Thanks ,the pan is very inexpensive $51.99 , cheap enough to give a try for sure, I was looking for the pickup tube do you Know the part# for the tube?
Dan Dvorak told me when he was setting records with His A/SA , He used 0-10 Royal Purple , 3 quarts only and only during record runs,There is a risk involved . Thanks for all the great information !
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I think maybe this is the oil pick up tube and screen Melling #1839-07883666 same as for V6 and V8 1996 Dakota.
 
Jeremy said:
The stock pickup works very nice, there's even a bump in the pan for the pickup to rest on. summit calls the pickup a melling 200s I'm sure it the same as above. Make sure you have the pan where the oil doesn't all go forward when you brake. I put a baffle sheet from the front to the sump to aid in oil drain back, and a baffle in the rear to aid in keeping oil in the sump.
Dan know's what he's talking about, one of the few I would listen to.
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Dan is a good man , I don't know what if any modifications he did to his pans , but he did build crank scrapers for BB Mopars , it would take many hours to fit the crank. I have known Dan and his wife Tanya for 30 years. good people.
 
Jeremy said:
Yes a great Guy.
Lots of difference in BB and SB. Yes, I've invested many hours building scrapers also. They are very important. SB oil is closer to the oil and planning is very important.
This is another reason I think th e windage tray must go. It just holds th oil closer to th e crank.
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Jeremy , Maybe a windage tray modified with Teflon screen might help, but if you are finding horse power without the tray then you are on something with the Dakota pan alone.
 
Jeremy, have you had any failures with the aluminum spool and gun drilled axles ? Do you use the MP Aluminum center section ? Thanks for all the great info.
 
the windage tray works with center sump pan. keeps windage down, Dakota pan has no sump in the middle, a crank scrapper does work wonders though.
 
RedB. said:
Jeremy, have you had any failures with the aluminum spool and gun drilled axles ? Do you use the MP Aluminum center section ? Thanks for all the great info.
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I've had the gun drilled axels for 20 years and have had no problems with them. I've had the alumn. spool 5 or more years and had no problem with it either but I try to be careful with it. The MP alumn. center section is not legal in stock.
 
Jeremy said:
I've had the gun drilled axels for 20 years and have had no problems with them. I've had the alumn. spool 5 or more years and had no problem with it either but I try to be careful with it. The MP alumn. center section is not legal in stock.
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Thanks Jeremy , Do you know why it is not legal? they allow after market brakes and rotors , it is supposed be stronger than the cast iron units . Do you have a brace on the housing ? Sorry for all the questions lol but I love stockers and super stockers and I appreciate what you have done/built into your Duster.
 
The aluminum center section is legal in superstock, not stock eliminator. Many of you questions could be answered by looking at a rule book.
 
cpearce said:
The aluminum center section is legal in superstock, not stock eliminator. Many of you questions could be answered by looking at a rule book.
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True. But it’s so much better to get the personal information from the actual racer as the questions pop into the head. Same thing happened to me in idle chit chat with a chassis builder one day. I didn’t realize I was grilling him with questions. LOL
 
rumblefish360 said:
True. But it’s so much better to get the personal information from the actual racer as the questions pop into the head. Same thing happened to me in idle chit chat with a chassis builder one day. I didn’t realize I was grilling him with questions. LOL
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I cant argue that point at all. Perhaps I should have said, you would likely enjoy reading over an NHRA rule book as it will provide you with plenty of information. Lol, probably generate more questions, I know it does for me. Great point Rumble.
 
cpearce said:
I cant argue that point at all. Perhaps I should have said, you would likely enjoy reading over an NHRA rule book as it will provide you with plenty of information. Lol, probably generate more questions, I know it does for me. Great point Rumble.
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LMAO
:rofl:

Well, you can’t always be a Diplomat on every response!
:rofl:
I have also found it hard to read the rulebook and retain information as well as reading in between the lines. As someone once said to me, the rulebook really just says what you can’t do! Not what you can get away with. LMAO
 
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