What? your putting the socket on the crank 8 times and watching for the 90* mark 7 times. But hey do it your way, It is JMO!
Adjust valves
- Thread starter hippy 60
- Start date
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j par
Well-hung Member
I personally put the ratchet on there one time and leave it on until I'm done. I guess there's faster ways to do it, but again like I was saying in my last post once you get used to a certain way it just works for ya...
j par
Well-hung Member
I personally enjoy the process..
69_340_GTS
Well-Known Member
You might not have the right tools. I have some big stuff, left over from a great uncle who worked on big trucks. So using a long handled 3/4" drive ratchet with a short extension hooked to the socket that fits the crank bolt, it turns easy. With the ratchet, the socket, etc... stays on the crank the whole time. You don't even have to take the plugs out. The socket goes on the crank once. And the best part is if you can follow the chart, there is absolutely no guessing to be done. I think for someone who has never done it before, following the chart is virtually idiot-proof.
So your at the track and #6 intake adjuster came loose or wasn't tightened down properly in the first place. Are you going to go thru the whole decal process to get to the proper spot to adjust #6 intake? Just saying?
And yes I have a complete 3/4" socket arrangement, Even some 1" drive stuff.
j par
Well-hung Member
I see this as just looking for an argument LOL I don't bring any tools to the track except for my tune-up tools. That's why I do things in a foolproof way. Double-checking everything as I go along. Like I said enjoying the process that's what I bought the car for. Of course after following the chart for all these years I know how to adjust a single valve or something like that knowing when an intake is open the exhaust is closed or the opposite in a pinch at a track if something broke. What we're getting at here is a newbie who has to start somewhere. And a good solid chart to read is a good suggestion. It's not the only suggestion by a long shot...
That is what I was pointing out, a way that works on any brand or size engine. The way I learned as a newby back in 1971. No I'm not trying to argue. Just My Opinion. But I'll bow out.
I keep it simple. I do it one rocker at a time right down the line. I bump the engine until I see the pushrod side all the way down and "bump a little more". I am sure not accurate on a degree wheel, but it's worked for me since I was a pre-teen. I don't have to worry about charts, EOIC, or anything else. I've tried other methods, but mine works best for ME.
j par
Well-hung Member
I agree I made my point that everybody has their own way and here's triple-r with another way. I'm out also, I've said what I've had to say..
hippy 60
Well-Known Member
I know to put it on tdc but i don't understand about rotate it 90 degrees how do you do that without a degree wheel
EVERY circle(balancer) no matter the size has 360*. Divide it by 4. Or get circumference of circle(balancer) and divide that by 360. That sells you dimensions per degree.
j par
Well-hung Member
Good question! I've had harmonic balancers that just only have the top dead center mark. I just go very opposite of it and put a little dab of white paint and then do the same thing go halfway between the two and put a dab of paint on each side. It doesn't have to be way way over exact. The method that I mentioned has you at the very center of the base Circle directly opposite full lift. I'm sure you could be off an inch either way on the harmonic balancer and still be way on the bottom of the base Circle as it's called. (The part with no lift at all)
j par
Well-hung Member
I don't know if it was mentioned but you don't want anyting too tight to start with for sure as you don't want one to bind while you're turning the motor over.
famous bob
mopar misfit
I made a clear valley cover that I run all time , it helps checking things if need be . I`d really like to have a set of clear valve covers like Andy F. has their kick a$$ .
Absolutely! I was just saying that 273 rockers, in good condition, are not low rpm pieces.
It won't bind, but that valve will not close.
69_340_GTS
Well-Known Member
I would.
j par
Well-hung Member
I would take my car back home on the trailer the minute anything went wrong. I only race for fun so it's no fun paying for a bunch of stuff that I wasn't given time to double-check. If I had a rocker fly off or get Ultra loose that would be the end of the day! and yes I would go through the entire procedure slowly double checking and making sure everything was correct. I just don't have that kind of money to be taking chances...
DesertRat
Leading edge boomer
I made a degree wheel on my computer the same size as my damper. Glued and cleared it onto the damper with 0 at #1 firing TDC. I put darker lines every 90 degrees. I pull the plugs as I am usually checking compression at the same time. Using the chart and my proper socket/ratchet combo I go through this process with great results. I see the fly in the ointment as being a more radical split grind cam where you might not be exactly on the heel of the lobe either intake or exhaust. My cam is mild so this is the process I use on my car every time. It gets real easy about the third time you do it and sort all your mistakes. My $0.02 worth.
With all this banter on how to lash valves, makes me wonder how a dealer service tech; who probably did not have degree wheels, charts; lashed the valves on a 273 in for service.
ECIO, EOIC is a process pretty hard to mess up, work down one bank then do the other, you are not doing this flat rate so it is not a speed contest on how fast you can do it with as few turns of the crank as possible.
ECIO, EOIC is a process pretty hard to mess up, work down one bank then do the other, you are not doing this flat rate so it is not a speed contest on how fast you can do it with as few turns of the crank as possible.
Pulled a valve cover, started it up and went down the line. Stopped the engine, replaced the cover, pulled the other side and did the same. Done.
That's how a service tech showed me how to do it in 1966 on my '65 Dart GT 273-4!
j par
Well-hung Member
I know when I put my drill on that high volume oil pump as soon as it starts coming out I have to stop or it fills the head and starts to overflow. I couldn't imagine what it would do when it was running...
Did it the same way, but had a valve cover with the top cut out. Don't tell anyone, I started out with small block Chevy's. 63 Nova SS with a 327 and 4 speed.
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