What? your putting the socket on the crank 8 times and watching for the 90* mark 7 times. But hey do it your way, It is JMO!You're only turning the crank 2 revolutions. How is that "too much"?
What? your putting the socket on the crank 8 times and watching for the 90* mark 7 times. But hey do it your way, It is JMO!You're only turning the crank 2 revolutions. How is that "too much"?
I personally put the ratchet on there one time and leave it on until I'm done. I guess there's faster ways to do it, but again like I was saying in my last post once you get used to a certain way it just works for ya...What? your putting the socket on the crank 8 times and watching for the 90* mark 7 times. But hey do it your way, It is JMO!
You might not have the right tools. I have some big stuff, left over from a great uncle who worked on big trucks. So using a long handled 3/4" drive ratchet with a short extension hooked to the socket that fits the crank bolt, it turns easy. With the ratchet, the socket, etc... stays on the crank the whole time. You don't even have to take the plugs out. The socket goes on the crank once. And the best part is if you can follow the chart, there is absolutely no guessing to be done. I think for someone who has never done it before, following the chart is virtually idiot-proof.What? your putting the socket on the crank 8 times and watching for the 90* mark 7 times. But hey do it your way, It is JMO!
You might not have the right tools. I have some big stuff, left over from a great uncle who worked on big trucks. So using a long handled 3/4" drive ratchet with a short extension hooked to the socket that fits the crank bolt, it turns easy. With the ratchet, the socket, etc... stays on the crank the whole time. You don't even have to take the plugs out. The socket goes on the crank once. And the best part is if you can follow the chart, there is absolutely no guessing to be done. I think for someone who has never done it before, following the chart is virtually idiot-proof.
I see this as just looking for an argument LOL I don't bring any tools to the track except for my tune-up tools. That's why I do things in a foolproof way. Double-checking everything as I go along. Like I said enjoying the process that's what I bought the car for. Of course after following the chart for all these years I know how to adjust a single valve or something like that knowing when an intake is open the exhaust is closed or the opposite in a pinch at a track if something broke. What we're getting at here is a newbie who has to start somewhere. And a good solid chart to read is a good suggestion. It's not the only suggestion by a long shot...So your at the track and #6 intake adjuster came loose or wasn't tightened down properly in the first place. Are you going to go thru the whole decal process to get to the proper spot to adjust #6 intake? Just saying?
I keep it simple. I do it one rocker at a time right down the line. I bump the engine until I see the pushrod side all the way down and "bump a little more". I am sure not accurate on a degree wheel, but it's worked for me since I was a pre-teen. I don't have to worry about charts, EOIC, or anything else. I've tried other methods, but mine works best for ME.
I agree I made my point that everybody has their own way and here's triple-r with another way. I'm out also, I've said what I've had to say..That is what I was pointing out, a way that works on any brand or size engine. The way I learned as a newby back in 1971. No I'm not trying to argue. Just My Opinion. But I'll bow out.
I know to put it on tdc but i don't understand about rotate it 90 degrees how do you do that without a degree wheelNever had a problem with 273 rockers. The most I have on a set is 400,000. I've adjusted them 2 or three times, including startup. They are either tight or not. If loose then your fix is good. My max lift is .500. I have no experience with more than that.
I have done it this way, but requires to much turning of the engine by hand. I'd rather use the EOIC method.
Good question! I've had harmonic balancers that just only have the top dead center mark. I just go very opposite of it and put a little dab of white paint and then do the same thing go halfway between the two and put a dab of paint on each side. It doesn't have to be way way over exact. The method that I mentioned has you at the very center of the base Circle directly opposite full lift. I'm sure you could be off an inch either way on the harmonic balancer and still be way on the bottom of the base Circle as it's called. (The part with no lift at all)I know to put it on tdc but i don't understand about rotate it 90 degrees how do you do that without a degree wheel
I don't know if it was mentioned but you don't want anyting too tight to start with for sure as you don't want one to bind while you're turning the motor over.
I think there's about fifty different ways I've heard of people slicing this cake. I just picked one and stayed with it and it seems to work...
I don't know if it was mentioned but you don't want anyting too tight to start with for sure as you don't want one to bind while you're turning the motor over.
I would.So your at the track and #6 intake adjuster came loose or wasn't tightened down properly in the first place. Are you going to go thru the whole decal process to get to the proper spot to adjust #6 intake? Just saying?
I would take my car back home on the trailer the minute anything went wrong. I only race for fun so it's no fun paying for a bunch of stuff that I wasn't given time to double-check. If I had a rocker fly off or get Ultra loose that would be the end of the day! and yes I would go through the entire procedure slowly double checking and making sure everything was correct. I just don't have that kind of money to be taking chances...I would.
That's how a service tech showed me how to do it in 1966 on my '65 Dart GT 273-4!Pulled a valve cover, started it up and went down the line. Stopped the engine, replaced the cover, pulled the other side and did the same. Done.
Did it the same way, but had a valve cover with the top cut out. Don't tell anyone, I started out with small block Chevy's. 63 Nova SS with a 327 and 4 speed.Pulled a valve cover, started it up and went down the line. Stopped the engine, replaced the cover, pulled the other side and did the same. Done.