[WANTED] 67 Barracuda headlight bezel threaded studs

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Pretty much exact match. Different sizes available.

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If some of your studs are broken, the only way that I know to repair them is to cut the rivets, remove the tab, and weld on new studs made from machine screws. Then re-rivet them back on.
 
You might search the world over for those exact studs that the factory used. Have the custom made ?
The studs that were shown at post #2 do work if you remove the OEM welded in studs. I've rebuilt 3 sets of grilles using these 'T' bolt studs.
They are the same studs that were used at upper and lower trim on your 67 B'cuda trunk lid, Except that they are cadmium plated. Stainless or nylon nuts makes it easy to take apart again too.
While rebuilding the grilles with these studs you would realize/understand why the factory used welded in place studs here. The multiple small parts increase assembly time.
 
You might search the world over for those exact studs that the factory used. Have the custom made ?
The studs that were shown at post #2 do work if you remove the OEM welded in studs. I've rebuilt 3 sets of grilles using these 'T' bolt studs.
They are the same studs that were used at upper and lower trim on your 67 B'cuda trunk lid, Except that they are cadmium plated. Stainless or nylon nuts makes it easy to take apart again too.
While rebuilding the grilles with these studs you would realize/understand why the factory used welded in place studs here. The multiple small parts increase assembly time.
factory studs used on the front grilles for 67 and 68 were not welded to the brackets they were pressed in
 
OK, I drilled out studs rather than use a press. Drilled to round 7/32 holes for the new 3/16 'T' studs. They drilled as if they were work hardened/welded. Maybe the OEM studs were hardened steel.
 
OK, I drilled out studs rather than use a press. Drilled to round 7/32 holes for the new 3/16 'T' studs. They drilled as if they were work hardened/welded. Maybe the OEM studs were hardened steel.
easiest way to pop broken studs out is to put a small socket in a vice and put the bracket with the back of the stud over it and use a small hammer and punch to slowly tap the top of the broken stud. after a few small taps what ever is left of the stud will pop right out. local hardware stores around me have perfect replacements to use to go back in. small tack weld from behind secures them just fine
 
I know this is a lot of work, but another problem that you may be seeing is that the factory pressed the studs into the bracket. Sometimes the stud will not break but will "turn" in the bracket and will not "grip". So my recommendation to weld the studs back in is to prevent this from ever happening again. Personally, I used self locking nuts which allowed me to "snug up" the new studs without over tightening them and distorting the trim. All these little nuts are difficult to reach on an assembled car, so work done well now will save you a lot of work in the future.
 
I know this is a lot of work, but another problem that you may be seeing is that the factory pressed the studs into the bracket. Sometimes the stud will not break but will "turn" in the bracket and will not "grip". So my recommendation to weld the studs back in is to prevent this from ever happening again. Personally, I used self locking nuts which allowed me to "snug up" the new studs without over tightening them and distorting the trim. All these little nuts are difficult to reach on an assembled car, so work done well now will save you a lot of work in the future.
Hey guys, Thanks for all of your tips, I really appreciate it.
Ged.
 
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