Ok, yes I plan on doing that before considering any cut off the fenders.
Front tire dilemma
- Thread starter Hotwheels sr.
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In my case I will try to mount 245 60 R14 on 14x7" 3.5" backspace rim wheels, done in the rear, just had to cut 1/2" from the inner fender lips, clearance is 1/2" back there if rear goes really low.
Still have to assemble the front this weekend I hope, so if the tires on front do not exceed the width of the front fenders on top, I`d be doing this.
The front brace right in front of the tire is easy, the fender will flex and can be pulled out maybe 2" if it does not look ridiculous but the fender brace on top of the tire does not seem to allow much pulling out, maybe 1/2".
It is a great idea before cutting the fenders, as you and Bob said.
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famous bob
mopar misfit
Cope
Fusing with fire
27 inch tire, with 1973 disks on a 71 dart.
Front of the fender is trimmed.
My car is not painted so trimming the fender was a no brainer.
Fender brace removed.
Front of the fender is trimmed.
My car is not painted so trimming the fender was a no brainer.
Fender brace removed.
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Looking good!
Can you tell what tires you have on front and if possible rim wheel measures? Rear too?
Cope
Fusing with fire
Fronts are 27x4x15 Hoosier drag frontrunners on 15x4 wheel. I don't remember the backspacing.
Rear is 295x65x15 Hoosier DOT drag radials on 15x10 wheels also dont recal the backspace.
Thanks, its a lot of fun!
Rear is 295x65x15 Hoosier DOT drag radials on 15x10 wheels also dont recal the backspace.
Thanks, its a lot of fun!
Here are some pics I took today after assembling part of front suspension.
Pics taken with front suspension all the way down (or almost), no torsion bars, just to check if I cam make them fit.
Tires P245 60 R14 rims 14x7" 3.5" backspace just like rear.
Pull front fenders edges 0.5" out and try to make them fit?
Pics taken with front suspension all the way down (or almost), no torsion bars, just to check if I cam make them fit.
Tires P245 60 R14 rims 14x7" 3.5" backspace just like rear.
Pull front fenders edges 0.5" out and try to make them fit?
Any chance that was a 6 cylinder car that still has the 6 cylinder torsion bars in it, but the car now has the heavier V8 and V8 radiator carring more cooling capacity and weight also.
Looks like it is sitting very low in the front by exta amount of distance between the upper A Frame and the bottoming rubber snubber, and by how close it is to the top of the tire height wise.
V8 torsions should have numbers something like .890 .891 318s with air
and .892 .893 for 340 cars and 383 cars. Think there is one heavier one yet if you can find it.
Torsion numbers are on the back of the bar at the transmission crossmember on the end of the bar.
wipe off the grease and with a good light you can read it and see what you have.
Cranking up the torsions can help too, depending on your preferance of ride height.
Looks like it is sitting very low in the front by exta amount of distance between the upper A Frame and the bottoming rubber snubber, and by how close it is to the top of the tire height wise.
V8 torsions should have numbers something like .890 .891 318s with air
and .892 .893 for 340 cars and 383 cars. Think there is one heavier one yet if you can find it.
Torsion numbers are on the back of the bar at the transmission crossmember on the end of the bar.
wipe off the grease and with a good light you can read it and see what you have.
Cranking up the torsions can help too, depending on your preferance of ride height.
Cope
Fusing with fire
With it sitting on the stops you may just be ok as long as you avoid pot holes and bumps at speed.
I'm not sure you could roll the fender enough to be fully safe but I think if your careful you could just drive it.
I'm not sure you could roll the fender enough to be fully safe but I think if your careful you could just drive it.
Those pics were taken with front all the way down no torsion bars mounted yet just to check if tire wheel set up may work...
She is a 318 stock here are pics of tbars.
OK Great
Yes those are the perfect torsion bars to put in. Great Numbers on them !
Yes those are the perfect torsion bars to put in. Great Numbers on them !
Those tbars came stock, it is a 318 v8 with an A904 tranny, all stock.
Now will try to pull front fender edges out a bit and make these wheels fit. Maybe will need to roll fender lips or be extra careful when turning all the way...
I like the fronts of those Brazilian A Bodies, kind of makes it look like a Dodge Charger Front.
Would like to see someone come up with a custom front for the 73 and Up A bodies to make them look a bit nicer. Old Trick is to Put a 71 Dart Front on them, but they are in short supply now. Plus does not look year correct.
Would like to see someone come up with a custom front for the 73 and Up A bodies to make them look a bit nicer. Old Trick is to Put a 71 Dart Front on them, but they are in short supply now. Plus does not look year correct.
This one is 100% correct now just the wheels set up are wrong but original hub caps look terrible with those skiny tires... This particular model was made just for 3 years from 1976 till 1978 in Brazil and they copied the front grill from the charger, I like it, but still a 4 door so I think will cover the white letters on tires with black paint.
Think there is a 1 inch wide angled support inside the top inner fender that you could cut loose in the middle with sawzall or die grinder.
That should allow you to pull the fender out just a bit without bending things. Then lay a 1 inch patch strap over the cut inner brace, clamp it with vice grips and tack weld it back together. Can use that clamped on patch strap to help in your adustment before you final weld it.
That should allow you to pull the fender out just a bit without bending things. Then lay a 1 inch patch strap over the cut inner brace, clamp it with vice grips and tack weld it back together. Can use that clamped on patch strap to help in your adustment before you final weld it.
They make a black Tire brush on Sun Block for tires to hold back the UV rays. Covers well and flattens down after overnight dry. leaves a decent finish.
The road dust does not stick to your rubber anywhere near what it does with out it, so tires stay cleaner for show, I like that. I use that on the tires in the Florida Sun when i go down there. That Sun kills the tires . . .
The road dust does not stick to your rubber anywhere near what it does with out it, so tires stay cleaner for show, I like that. I use that on the tires in the Florida Sun when i go down there. That Sun kills the tires . . .
You have a special car there with that Cool Charger Style front on It. Saw it in the very first part of your post quite a few days ago then you took it down right away. I copied out the picture of it, just before you took it down cause I liked it so much. I would be happy to drive that one around !
Wish someone made an after maket kit like that for the late A Bodies, would still be Mopar Correct. Thanks
I put an Edelbrock 1405 600 cfm carb on a bone stock 69 318 with an adapter kit so I did not have to tear into the car's originality by swapping out the intake . . pretty special low mile car. Really woke up the 318, gave it a deeper tone, does not leak fuel like the 2bbl did and I still get 20 miles per gallon with it in a B Body with 727 and 2.94 rear gears.
Still has great get up and go, easily pass cars on our fast freeways. Good Low Torque 318 really pulls makes a nice driver out of it, can can have fun opening up the secondaries from time to time too. Engine handles it just fine.
Wish someone made an after maket kit like that for the late A Bodies, would still be Mopar Correct. Thanks
I put an Edelbrock 1405 600 cfm carb on a bone stock 69 318 with an adapter kit so I did not have to tear into the car's originality by swapping out the intake . . pretty special low mile car. Really woke up the 318, gave it a deeper tone, does not leak fuel like the 2bbl did and I still get 20 miles per gallon with it in a B Body with 727 and 2.94 rear gears.
Still has great get up and go, easily pass cars on our fast freeways. Good Low Torque 318 really pulls makes a nice driver out of it, can can have fun opening up the secondaries from time to time too. Engine handles it just fine.
Mert
New Member
Hi Pal a FEA will not fix your problem I am running 215 and it is fine. Good Luck
You are lucky you're in the US, down here we do not have all goodies you do and all import parts are very expensive for these old cars.
I plan on relocating to TX later this year if things go right and will sure take my old wheels with me.
It would be great adding some more power to the 318 without blowing it or having to tear apart.
I'm glad you liked my dart's front end but now these parts are near impossible to find here. Maybe we could fabricate out of epoxy and carbon fiber...
I am pretty crafty at making things, Know how to layup fiberglass, make molds, made things out of steel, have good auto body skills. Heck yeah, come to the USA, we will look into building the Charger Fronts for the A Bodies. I like your Epoxy and Carbon Fiber ideas. I used to rebuild totally Smashed Peterbilts and make them look like new. So setting up a new front would be a piece of cake. Coming up with the design, look and fit to existing body structure and front bumper layout is the hard part.
Here are a couple quick photos of how to do an inexpensive carb swap, the adapter is only $20.00
I have some used carbs . . can go through one, tune it up and ship it and the adapter to you. The rest is hardware store stuff. Just need a little time . . .
Anyhow enjoy these carb swap photos, you can get some good ideas on how to go about things.
This setup above with the air cleaner on the Edlebrock on the red 318 was the first day rough draft setup. The next day I did a little machining on the Mr Gasket 4 to 2 bbl adapter where the mount bolts go to the manifold and used the below grade bolts with the kit to keep them out of the way of the butter flys opening up, then I was able to get rid of that carb spacer, drop it down, and make a nice clean install out of it.
Have to reposition your throttle cable for the 4 bbl and trans kickdown needs to be reset right. Chrysler has an old time video on youtube on how to properly set up the transmission kickdown.
Have fun looking it over, something fun to think about.
You know it can be done if you make a plan to make it happen.
Makes a fun driving car out of it for not much money spent.
Thanks
Here are a couple quick photos of how to do an inexpensive carb swap, the adapter is only $20.00
I have some used carbs . . can go through one, tune it up and ship it and the adapter to you. The rest is hardware store stuff. Just need a little time . . .
Anyhow enjoy these carb swap photos, you can get some good ideas on how to go about things.
This setup above with the air cleaner on the Edlebrock on the red 318 was the first day rough draft setup. The next day I did a little machining on the Mr Gasket 4 to 2 bbl adapter where the mount bolts go to the manifold and used the below grade bolts with the kit to keep them out of the way of the butter flys opening up, then I was able to get rid of that carb spacer, drop it down, and make a nice clean install out of it.
Have to reposition your throttle cable for the 4 bbl and trans kickdown needs to be reset right. Chrysler has an old time video on youtube on how to properly set up the transmission kickdown.
Have fun looking it over, something fun to think about.
You know it can be done if you make a plan to make it happen.
Makes a fun driving car out of it for not much money spent.
Thanks
No.
These are 235-60-15s on 15x6.5" wheels. The Duster has tighter fitment because the wheel opening is not as wide at the bottom as a Dart.
Could you tell the backspace on those 15×6.5 front rim wheels?
You know how to have fun once you are in the toybox. Nice pics!
Looks like the P245 60 R14 with 14x7" 3.5" backspace might fit after all... aligned today with cell and tape camber -0.4 caster +1.8 roughly toe bit in...
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