Quick dumb questions for a dumb idea.

-
gdrill

gdrill

I AM
FABO Gold Member
Joined
Sep 26, 2011
Messages
11,064
Reaction score
17,930
Location
Just North of Montana
Maybe a dumb idea, but I require some input form someone who knows!
But I don't mind being embarrassed! :)

I have looked in my manual and I think that it tells me there is about 20-22 amps being drawn to engage the solenoid on the starter. Am I out to lunch here? I might be missing something, but I can only find /6 starter numbers. I would think it would be similar throughout though? I am wondering if this is roughly correct.

The reason? I had a silly idea this morning. I remember a thread about anti theft devices. It just popped into my head about converting the cigarette lighter into the start button. It would take some work to make happen, but I highly doubt anybody would figure it out. I do realize there are risks, such as, somebody could push it at any time and engage the starter etc. But being as we generally are the only ones who drive, or are in our cars for that matter, I would consider that a minimal risk. I would consider it similar to an aftermarket spring loaded push button, except you could remove it, effectively removing "the key"! I don't remember how long a lighter takes to heat up, but it is definitely longer than my engine takes to start if used regularly. If ran yesterday, hit the key and release. Varoom. After a week, a bit of cranking for fuel, which could be avoided by pre-fueling the carb.

The lighter has a 20 amp fuse currently.

So 4 questions:
How many amps does it really take to engage the solenoid on a factory style or mini starter?

Would the 20 amps the lighter handles to heat up be enough to handle the starting cycle or would I need to convert "the guts" somehow?

Is this the dumbest idea you've heard in a while or ever? :)

Should I just remove the lighter, buy a button and mount the lighter knob to it?!?!

The last question eliminates the removal scenario though.

Maybe it is already done somewhere?
 
Just use a jam switch that is closed when the ash tray is open to short the ignition. Been doing that for years, way easier.
 
Use the lighter to engage a solenoid to complete the circuit for the starter solenoid
then you just push in the lighter and start the car with the key as normal. When the lighter is out the starter wont engage.
 
halifaxhops said:
Just use a jam switch that is closed when the ash tray is open to short the ignition. Been doing that for years, way easier.
Click to expand...
and just like that... I know how to steal the popmobile hahaha
 
gdrill said:
Maybe a dumb idea, but I require some input form someone who knows!
But I don't mind being embarrassed! :)

I have looked in my manual and I think that it tells me there is about 20-22 amps being drawn to engage the solenoid on the starter. Am I out to lunch here? I might be missing something, but I can only find /6 starter numbers. I would think it would be similar throughout though? I am wondering if this is roughly correct.

The reason? I had a silly idea this morning. I remember a thread about anti theft devices. It just popped into my head about converting the cigarette lighter into the start button. It would take some work to make happen, but I highly doubt anybody would figure it out. I do realize there are risks, such as, somebody could push it at any time and engage the starter etc. But being as we generally are the only ones who drive, or are in our cars for that matter, I would consider that a minimal risk. I would consider it similar to an aftermarket spring loaded push button, except you could remove it, effectively removing "the key"! I don't remember how long a lighter takes to heat up, but it is definitely longer than my engine takes to start if used regularly. If ran yesterday, hit the key and release. Varoom. After a week, a bit of cranking for fuel, which could be avoided by pre-fueling the carb.

The lighter has a 20 amp fuse currently.

So 4 questions:
How many amps does it really take to engage the solenoid on a factory style or mini starter?

Would the 20 amps the lighter handles to heat up be enough to handle the starting cycle or would I need to convert "the guts" somehow?

Is this the dumbest idea you've heard in a while or ever? :)

Should I just remove the lighter, buy a button and mount the lighter knob to it?!?!

The last question eliminates the removal scenario though.

Maybe it is already done somewhere?
Click to expand...

this would work better... run a trip wire to the door handle so when the unsuspecting crook opens it quickly...

FITH OPS - Peremeter Alarms & Trip Alarms
 
brian6pac said:
Use the lighter to engage a solenoid to complete the circuit for the starter solenoid
then you just push in the lighter and start the car with the key as normal. When the lighter is out the starter wont engage.
Click to expand...

This is implying the answer to one of my questions. Whether or not the lighter would handle the amperage draw to engage the solenoid. This way it would have to.
 
LOL my first hot rod we rigged a coil under the drivers seat on a 5 second timer to go on through the pressure switch in the seat for the seatbelt light, and and it went off continuously unless the key was turned. Pretty funny stuff.
 
Bet if you jump the coil in the lighter it would. Just don't plan on using a charger there.
 
Honestly, I was wondering if you could just more or less take the start wire from the ignition switch and hook it to the lighter. Then make the lighter so it didn't "stick in" and just popped right back out. Then you would push it like a button and release it at start up. Take it out and throw it in the glove box, car won't start.

But I think I got this wrong. The start circuit sends power to the relay. The lighter just grounds out power.
 
gdrill said:
^^^^that is what got me thinking!
Click to expand...

Hah! Should have known.. I seriously like the idea of the jam switch and the ash tray... Yo could also install a second high beam foot switch.
 
My car will not crank unless the cigarette lighter is pushed in. It is the ground for the clutch switch. I don't leave it in the car,when away from home. I have other anti-theft measures. None as brilliant as the coil under-the-seat trick.
 
brian6pac said:
Use the lighter to engage a solenoid to complete the circuit for the starter solenoid
then you just push in the lighter and start the car with the key as normal. When the lighter is out the starter wont engage.
Click to expand...

I'm using my empty cigarette lighter for a USB charger-it also functions as a voltage meter!
61lkv3wduuL._SS135_.jpg

Dual QC3.0 USB Car Charger, Opluz Quickly Charge 4.8A USB Car Socket x2&Waterproof Power Outlet with LED Voltmeter for 12V/24V Car, Boat, Marine, RV, Motorcycle Mobile Build-in 10A Fuse DIY Car Kit
4.8 out of 5 stars(9)
$15.99$15.99
 
Several different ways to interrupt start. In the 74 model a seatbelt interlock interrupted the positive ( yellow wire ) path to starter relay coil. Neutral safety switch interrupts negative path ( brown wire ) in all automatic trans builds. So rather than have 12 volts at the lighter, route the neutral safety wire to it. Key turned to start and nothing happens unless lighter is pushed in providing a chassis ground path for the starter relay coil.
 
Last edited:
20 amps doesn't go thru that part of the starter circuit, so your push button idea should work fine. Your push button or the original "start" position merely activates a solenoid that then sends the big amps to the starter.
 
Remember that these old cars are extremely simple to hot wire under the hood. Hot wire bypasses anything you might have done on the inside too.
 
I always figure, if someone's gonna steal my car its gonna be on a flat bed truck. Not the joy riding kid that steals Hondas.....
 
RedFish said:
Remember that these old cars are extremely simple to hot wire under the hood. Hot wire bypasses anything you might have done on the inside too.
Click to expand...

Very true. Like information systems, all you can really do is make it more of a pain in the A.. or risky than it's worth.

That said, you could go so far as to move wring around, and place "dummy" wires, decoys if you well.

Though like @Cope says above, a flat bed negates it all. That's bold though and not nearly as likely, unless someone keeps their pride and joy parked on the street.
 
Cope said:
I always figure, if someone's gonna steal my car its gonna be on a flat bed truck. Not the joy riding kid that steals Hondas.....
Click to expand...

I used to have a push in button hid in my street hemi, that grounded the auto. trans when pushed, w/o the ground it wouldn`t start.
Easy enough to do, and no voltage to mess with, hiding it where u can reach it and not be noticed is the toughest part !
 
I would not worry about protecting THE STARTER CIRCUIT, because any thief that knows anything might know how to "jump" the starter.....right at the starter.

So go elsewhere.........

You have a tach? Most people are not gonna re-wire the tach circuit or do a lot of troubleshooting. A simple switch to ground the tach wire (unless it's a CD/ MSD) will stop the coil from firing. If the thief leaves the thing hotwired, this may damage something and might not. Many ignitions conduct current when stopped, anyhow

"Improbable" (not obvious?) interrupt of ignition power. Let's say you have a factory Mopar breakerless ignition. Unwrap the harness and find the power wire right to the ECU. Break that and insert a series switch, make it look "stock."

Fuel. You CAN BUY electric fuel cutoff valves. If you use an electric pump that's even easier, you can put a switch in the pump relay line

There's all kinds of easier ways to protect your car.....than to mess with the solenoid

AND THE PROBLEM IS if they show up with a trailer, wrecker, or roll back, you are screwed unless you have a CELL BASED security device
 
I also moved my start relay down onto the right frame-rail at the bottom of the firewall next to the headers. There is no way to get a screwdriver in there with a cold engine, never mind a hot one,lol.So you better bring a remote starter switch........... and a battery....... and some booster cables, cuz my battery is in the trunk, and not hooked up. You'll also need a rotor, a 3 ft coil wire, and an ignition amp. And sometimes it's BYOC, bring your own carb
I have still other anti-theft measures. None as brilliant as the coil under-the-seat trick.

I never lock the doors, nor the vent windows.
If someone wants it, they will have to winch it up onto a flat-bed rig, dragging the BFG 295 howlers. If I sleep thru all that, maybe they deserve the car.
 
Last edited:
I should have mentioned, this is a 66 Coronet. Part of my thinking was due to the fact that the lighter is right beside the key vs in the ashtray. It would be almost a natural motion to do it! :) I still may buy a switch and mount the lighter knob on it. It’s not so much just anti theft because as mentioned we all know how to get around stuff. I just thought it would be cool and different.

image.jpg
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top