BUM LEFT NEED CLUTCH PEDAL HELP

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dodge71demon

dodge71demon

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Last fall I tested to laws of gravity and it does exist shattered the heel on my left foot and damaged some tendons. The tendon pain is preventing me from pushing in the clutch pedal. Using a fairly stock diaphragm pressure plate with the over under spring removed. Would a hydraulic clutch be much easier to push with my bum foot
 
Imo I would say no.
I have 2009 challenger 6 speed and 70 duster 4 speed and they are about the same. I would say the hydraulic in the challenger may be even a tad harder to push.
The 70 duster has the center force clutch spring removed and modified clutch pedal. And seems fairly easy to push down
 
If you were to go with a hydraulic clutch you could get some form of booster for it.

Some newer cars have electronic brake boosters you might be able to adapt

Mechanical advantage is your friend!
 
If this is in your Demon, then the correct fix is to sell the car to a guy in NJ! As luck would have it, I am in NJ and I would love to buy a Demon with a clutch!!!:lol:
 
The centerforce clutch is real easy on the left leg.
I have one in my duster.
 
I discovered that if you are careful, you CAN run the smaller 318-type over-center spring with the CF-II. Modulation is a dream, and even Granma can clutch mine.
The careful part is limiting the pedal travel to use only as much as you need to satisfy departure and to allow a clash-free shift into reverse. You can either put a block under the pedal, or run a bunch of freeplay, or whatever else you can think of. This is to prevent the pedal from sticking to the floor.
The over center spring makes it easier to hold the pedal in the down position,like at a stopsign. But IMO does not help much if at all, in the going down of it. But it sure helps for smooth engagement and parading.

But to answer your question, yes the hydros are easier to operate.
But it seems that of those guys that have installed them, many have teething issues, mostly in getting it to work right in the available pedal travel , and also, getting it bled.
 
Last edited:
AJ/FormS said:
I discovered that if you are careful, you can run the non-340 over-center spring with the CF-II, Even granma can clutch mine, and modulation is a dream.
The careful part is limiting the pedal travel to use only as much as you need to satisfy departure and to allow a clash-free shift into reverse. You can either put a block under the pedal, or run a bunch of freeplay, or whatever else you can think of. This is to prevent the pedal from sticking to the floor.
Click to expand...
I have done that on my Borg and Beck. Scary at 6,000 r's.
 
Not related to this, but;
I have missed a shift and seen the tach-needle crossing 8000
................. on it's way back down.
I think my heart skipped a beat at that time. But it idled normal, so I
immediately stroked "rev-limiter" off my want-list.
Then I went home and fixed the dadgum shifter, and never missed a shift again since 2004
 
AJ/FormS said:
Not related to this, but;
I have missed a shift and seen the tach-needle crossing 8000
................. on it's way back down.
I think my heart skipped a beat at that time. But it idled normal, so I
immediately stroked "rev-limiter" off my want-list.
Then I went home and fixed the dadgum shifter, and never missed a shift again since 2004
Click to expand...
I advanced the E4 in my 273 and have short springs in it. It doesn't want to go much past 5 unless aggravated.
 
AJ/FormS said:
You got new ones on order? or is 5000 enough? I think that would be too close for comfort for me.
I would rather burn up a cam, than get into valve-float/lifter pump-up.
Click to expand...
Solid E4 Isky. I got some "340 springs" and they needed shimming up quite a ways. I need some Comp 901's.
 
Take a look at the outboard side of the bracketry. There you will or will not find a brace, that completely covers the spring, or where it is supposed to be. If you see that brace, it is there to counteract the powerful 340 spring. Having that brace implies that you also have the 340 spring.That spring is quite a bit more powerful than the 318/slanty spring.
I personally wouldn't use it because of my driving style
but if you decide to use it, test it right-away, engine off, in the driveway to make sure the pedal returns. If it does then try it at 2000rpm and then 3000 and then every 500 rpm to whatever rpm you intend to shift at, to a max of 5000. Be advised that if the diaphragm flips over inside the clutch, it may not return by itself, and I have no idea what will happen to the flyweights.
I have never had this happen to me, but I have watched a Chevy-guy drop his trans to get a prybar in there and flip it back.
So, IMO, installing the 340spring is too iffy for me.
 
Thanks for all the advise This is not in a Demon rather a made car using pedals out of a 75 so it has the smaller spring have to try something even though it doesn't have a ton of power the car was built to enjoy
 
got this back from centerforce going to try putting the over center spring back on with the diaphragm already in first
CFT361739 is a diaphragm, has a ball bearing fulcrum for a easy pedal effort. 383269 is the disc number.
 
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